Al

Wouldn't det have shown on top of the pistons? ie: pitting or rough'ish surface. Apart from the cracks between the ring-lands, everything else was in pristine condition.

Made over 270rwkw@16psi with mine, proven both on EAS and Racingline dyno's. My old one is now hanging off the side of a std NEO engine making over 270rwkw@16psi too. Any more boost was useless as that's about the limitations of this turbo. Hardly a "choke up" though

Ah shit Adz, Totally forgot it was your B'day, and we spoke twice today on the phone, feel like a fool HAPPY B'DAY MATE!!! We will make up for it in Thailand! Happy b'day Liz, hope you also had a great day.

Looks tops James!!

Absolute max 12.2:1 for a built engine On a std engine i wouldn't exceed 12:1 max, but that's just my opinion.

Just saw you sig, so obviously this Winton day is important to you. Having my car at DECA, on my 30th B'day was important to me too, but that didn't happen; knowing now that my car is 100% ready and working perfectly is more important. There will be other events and other B'days, hell i was glad i didn't have it, as i would have had to drive it back the next morning

That's right, but a lean tune creates more heat, more boost creates more heat, this setup has both. What can promote detonation? You guessed it..................HEAT. May be alright on the dyno, but on the track and under the car's own load, detonation may occur. I would consider that top end tune unsafe for a "built engine" let alone a std one. Holding 19psi to red-line ain't doing it any favours too. Just a second thought though -If the dump is restrictive doesn't that slow down the exhaust gasses, so shouldn't the turbo be creating less boost than expected or at least dropping off dramatically? - Just thinking whether the car may have another issue Personally i would give this event a miss, knowing my car is not running properly. Can you afford possibly blowing another rb25? Is this event that important to risk all?

Not that different

But it doesn't lift the rpm once the car is warm, so it is not a factory safety feature. I assume after you left it to warm up and it still wouldn't rev past 1krpm, you turned it off and on again; and it still would rev past 1krpm. I am more inclined to think "dry joints" in the AFM or Even cracks in the coil packs and the moisture in the air is causing a short to the engine. Ask a fellow Skyline mate to swap parts for a short period of time. ie: Swap AFM, see if fault reoccurs, then try coils, then ignitor pack, etc. ONLY swap one item at a time, and swap back before testing another item. If that's not possible then try using a heat gun or hair dryer, the next time the problem occurs. Once again only try gently heating one component at a time.

That boost and those a/f ratios at the top end; you're asking for trouble. RB25's are known to have weak ring-lands and the boost and leanness of the tune will generate more heat which can cause issues. I personally wouldn't risk it. I consider anything over 12:1 a/f ratios, on a std RB25 and doing track days a BIG risk. I ran 18psi, with 11.5:1 a/f ratios and still managed to crack a ring-land, pics below. All other components were in top nick, even the piston top, bore, etc of the cracked piston where completely undamaged. Don't worry about split pipes or stainless; just get a custom made bell-mouth mild steel dump from a good exhaust shop. Should not cast you too much.

If the car is lowered remove the front right wheel, then the guard cover, and check to see if the loom as been damaged by the wheel itself. I have seen lowered cars rub through the looms and create massive shorts and problems. One even caught fire and the loom had to be replaced. Is it more likely to happen in the wet, hot days, after X amount of driving, on rough roads, etc. Also make sure you carefully check all the wiring, especially in the engine bay.

Congrates Drew!! Hope all are doing well.

Well i just added a c/f bonnet after completing my engine build and getting it tuned. Here are the updated pics.

Thanks again guys!

But which one is the super model? The GTR is fatter and heavier

There are alot of GTST's out there quicker than you GTR

Can you buy a 355 for $10,000 didn't think so

Thailand..............come down

Not sure mate, never got a quote for that size, doesn't sound bad though. Just get out the yellow pages and call around all the tyre shops, you'll soon find out if it's a good price or not.

Any reason why you haven't run T1R's at the rear? I have a pair of T1R's at the front too and found them to be exactly as described above. I have a pair of Hankooks on the rears, as at the time i was just wanting cheap tyres, as these rims are used to "play with". I am now considering going the T1R's at the rear too. The T1R's were purchased 2nd hand for less than half price, with 90% thread, best money ever spent

I have seen turbos blow at 10psi and others hold for years at 16psi. It's a game of "Russian roulette", but your odds are better when running 10psi. In either case, a dyno check is always in order when playing with boost. My R33 turbo lasted for over 2yrs on 13.5psi, but i was ready/willing to replace it, in the end i got feed up of waiting for it to go so i upgraded anyway, and sold it for $350 as it was still in top nick.

I know! But on the flip side i went out with other mates, that have missed my b'day on other years, due to me being at DECA .

Happy b'day fellas!!! Hope you didn't work to hard.

Give Calder a call. When i use to work there spectators where able to park inside, but a lot has changed since then, so just call them to find out.

I'm counting the days Bec!! Will be one big party!