Al

Noble Park maccas would be the last place i take my car

Just drop the exhaust off before the cat and do a run, then fit the cat do another run and compare the two result with this one. Also sounds like your coils are breaking down, so make sure you get the Splitfires ASAP, and gap the plugs to 0.8mm Here is my graph to compare to: The graph shows exactly what a shit cat can do to the overall power. Red line was using the original "hi flowing cat", blue line showing what happened with the "better" flowing cat 18psi Tomei Poncams Head porting Std bottom end 3" turbo-back exhaust

My Engine, ETM manifold. Works and looks great

Not to repeat what W0rp3D has posted but you need to be in the gates by about 2pm as scrutineering closes at 3pm. So meet at BP at 1pm, talk shit, have lunch, fuel up, then go to Calder at 2pm. NO SCRUTINEERING, NO RACING!

Just re-read his initial post and this does not sound like compressor surge at all.When my rb25 surged, with a maximum hi-flowed turbo, it still made power and accelerated but you would feel the surge, back and forth, and the turbo made flutter sounds. What you have described seems to be more of a tuning issue. I assume the car came from Japan with the existing mods. Having no idea of it's history, mods before sale, tuning w/shop, fuel, etc you can't expect it to drive properly using Australian 98ron shitty fuel, without a full retune. Have you put the car on a dyno, to see exactly what the car is doing and have a look at the a/f ratios? Saving the $'s to fit the Pfc and get a proper tune to suit Australian fuel would be my first priority. I wouldn't try to save a few bucks buy going to a cheaper unknown tuner either, as the tune is the biggest component of any car's setup, especially when you have a d-jetro Pfc, which is a little different than your usual Pfc. All the best, but get the current tune looked at before spending any money on changing components, just to find the same problem exists.

Agreed! Every time is see the VX in this colour i would alway picture it on a 33, with black "highlights". If i hadn't already re-sprayed my car a pearl red, i would have definitely chosen this colour $206.60 for 4ltrs is awefully cheap, i'll be checking whether it is a 3-layer paint, and confirming that price. My colour is off a '96 Ford Mustang and is a 3-layer Pearl, i paid about $1400 just for the paints (base, pearl, clear).

Sounds great, but i'll be on holidays overseas

Yes, as machining of the crank is required to fit the collar.

I got excited for a sec........................... Then got even more excited when i remembered i would be on holidays, overseas, in September This will have to wait; i'll be there one day Kev. PS: The driver training lessons came useful last week, when a Roo decided to hope in front of me on a Hwy, in misty conditions. Was happy that the lesson learnt kept me in control of the situation, THANKS!

*cough* To set the actuator properly the hole on the actuator shaft should be about half a hole short from fitting on the gate pin. You then need to pull the arm so that the pin fits through the hole. This will provide the right preload/tension on the gate. The std ecu normally runs pretty rich, so if you have a std 7psi actuator i would dare say it would be ok. If you do not have the money for an ecu and tune i would seriously find a w/shop doing a "dyno day", adjust the actuator just before going on the dyno and inform the tuner/mechanic of the situation and to keep an eye/ear out for a/f ratios and detonation. This way it will only cost you about $40-$50, instead of the $120+ w/shops may charge to do a single run. All the best.

Agreed Also....fitting a hiflowed std turbo to a high mount manifold is a BIG waste of money. This turbo should be making full boost by 3800-4000rpm max.; if it's not, there is something wrong with the setup/tune. Fitting a top mount manifold will not fix the problem.

There is never one clear cut way to build any motor, everyone has their own style/touches/opinions/preferances that they like to do when building a motor. Just need to decide what's right for you. My mechanic used the pdf file as a good guide, but also done a few other mods and left a couple out.

Nice What purpose is this package being built for? Drag Racing?

Hell no. Not worth the $'s with that turbo/setup. I made 275rwkw with the standard manifold and great response using a turbo very similar to this and a GTRS. I have seen others make over 330rwkw using the std manifold. As others have stated: - ECU + tune - Good actuator - turbo back exhaust - fmic then to optimize the set-up - Injectors - Boost controller

Check you boost actuator; if it's soft or lazy it will be opening the internal gate too early, causing turbo to be laggy and not boost up properly. I would personally take it to a mechanic that has a dyno and knows how to diagnose these issues.

Also check you AFM as a stuffed unit will cause the car to run in limp mode. The actual values of the compression test are not too important, AS LONG AS ALL 6 CYLINDERS HAVE SIMILAR FIGURES.

I think it's the HICAS too; unless you have already locked it out. Was going to suggest disconnecting the HICAS loom off the mechanism to see if the HICAS light comes on the dash. Sounds like this dodgey dealer may have removed the bulb from the cluster. If that's the case a simple $80 HICAS lock bar would have solved your issues. Does your HICAS light come on, on start-up? $6000 is damn cheap If the sale falls through shoot me a PM, if you want a hand to try and diagnose the issue, would be happy to help. pfffft..........keep dreaming.

Are you living in New York? No.... well convert that to AUS $, probably about $1300, then include P&H, insurance, GST, etc. and you'll be paying at least $1600. When doing a comparison make sure you use an example from the same country.

Too small for an rb25. Yes it will be very responsive, but would max out at about 215-220rwkw, pretty poor upgrade considering a std turbo can make 210rwkw (max). A HKS GT2535 (new style) or a HKS GTRS are nice on rb25's

Yep all good. Thanks Fellas!!

*CASE CLOSED* That is one externally HOT looking 32GTR

That purple GTR with 34GTR rims would look HOT! A lot better than your current rims. 17" TE37s are just too small.

I laughed so hard, one of the best lines of the year!!! Hey Richard when you coming down to Melb again?

To bad it's a 70 zone or even 60, depending where you classify as Sydenham. In Delahey area it's a 70 zone and in Sydenham it's 60 I live walking distance from Delahey Plaza and Watergardens S/C