Al

WOW! What an awesome day. Even the cold wet weather couldn't dampen the great efforts of all involved. Well done guys, great job!!

WTF is that clip meant to prove? Just some wanker on the streets. How about showing some useful info: Post up the dyno charts showing power, boost, etc.

Yep........................................................but only lasted 200km Noticed a slight oil leak that was traced to a leak through the block. Engine is now stripped again and getting rebuilt into a new block. Those 200km produced a grin from ear to ear, every time i drove it. Run-in tune dyno graphs and comparisons:

Damn that's a huge turbo! How many Hp? I wanted response with my rb25/30 combo, so i fitted the smallest recommended turbo GT3076R; also a fully built engine. Love it! Can't wait till the next DECA, will be awesome.

Hey Steve! Just occured to me now: WTF are you always bringing the auto supra to DECA. HTFU and enter the GTR, once it's up and running PS: I want to see pics and details

Well my manifold is HPC coated, which acts like thermal wrapping, but looks like chrome paint (which then dulls once heated), refer to pics above. You can also get the HPC coating in black, which wasn't available through ETM. You are right about the thermal wrapping crystallizing the metal and causing it to crack (over a extended period of time), that is why i only thermal wrapped the dump/front pipe. To reduce the effects; paint the pipe first with heat resistant exhaust paint, let to dry, then wrap the pipe, let to dry, then paint the thermal wrap with the same exhaust paint, till fully coated. A custom heat shield was made for the turbo (to prevent burning the paint on the bonnet) and also along the chassis rail to protect the loom, hoses, etc.

Translation: Shit didn't think of that.............. Were is it hitting? Timing belt cover or the turbo. If you get a genuine c/f bonnet it doesn't have the support frame, as it is very strong/stiff on it's own. I have a full c/f bonnet made by Custom Carbon (currently not fitted to car and at the mechanic's w/shop), it consists or 3 layers of carbon and resin, that's it, no fibre-glass, etc.

The fuel pump sits at the bottom of the tank and ALWAYS sucks from the bottom of the tank; so you're not going to suck more crap from the bottom if you're low on fuel. But leaving you car consistently low on fuel may decrease the life span of the pump as it will run a lot hotter (the fuel in the tank generally keeps the pumper cooler). Also the fuel will be a lot hotter, which will decrease engine performance. EDIT: Damn it Paul bet me by seconds!

Hey Bob, Great to see you're so enthusiastic about motorsport and Skylines. Wish you all the best. But You need to separate dreams from reality. Saying that you are considering dropping your degree for a path in motorsport, but having had no motorsport experience, is stupid beyond comprehension. Being 20 and self confident does not make you a race car driver. You don't even need a car to compete in motorsport, if you were serious you would have started off with go-karts, etc. Keep studying, save up for you car, then go to a few club track days, you'll soon find out where you stand. You don't need a modified car to do it either as even a slower car will teach you the skills of driving and handling. Well all the best and keep your head in your books and out the clouds

That's exactly what i was thinking?

Here's mine. Engine Out: Engine In:

I would stay away from stainless manifolds all together, 99% of them crack, no matter how good they are, even the manifold manufacturer's will not give a guarantee that the stainless wont crack, no matter how good the material. The std manifold is good for at least 300rwkw. If you intend to remove the manifold, clean up the ports (on the manifold only, do not touch the head) and size match them to gasket size, including the turbo flange. If you do consider an aftermarket manifold make sure it's made from stem pipe, as these are not as brittle as stainless and will never crack. No need to go with Jap made brands either, use 6Boost or Extreme Turbo Manifolds, both are a proven Australian product. I myself use a ETM manifold, couldn't be happier. For a good quality manifold expect to pay $1000-$1300; anything cheaper and you'll be compromising power/quality/response/etc. DON'T EVEN CONSIDER THESE $300 CHINA MADE SHIT! Total waste of money and time.

Hey Jess, Welcome to Melbourne! Shepp is great for the occasional weekend piss-up, but that's about it All the best, hope to catch up at a cruise or event.

All the best Guys!! Will try and come down an offer support.

Just went past after work (7:15pm) carpark was empty

+1

Mine only beeps for keys and i think maybe lights, not 100% sure have had my car for a while now

I never knew that was an option in the 33's....Never came across a 33 with it.

I used an rb26 ATI balancer on my rb25/30 build; using rb25 p/s, air con, and alternator. All using rb25 belts. The actual balancer fits straight on, but you need to do a couple of mods on other components. 1/ The Power Steering pulley needs to be re-pressed about 5mm forward, to line up with the balancer p/s pulley. After moving the pulley forward, my mechanic just spot welded the pulley to the shaft for extra support. 2/ If you are using the std engine clutch fan, like i am, you'll need to space it out about 5mm otherwise it may hit the balancer. My mechanic made a spacer/hub, similar to the ones used for rims.

Awesome pics Sarah

Rednecks........................ need i say more

Engine brake creates more exhaust gases, thus opens the hat .jrocket is pretty much spot on.

See, you have just proven that you need to poke us all in the ribs, really hard, to realise it was your b'day too; Subtlety never works Happy belated B'day Greg!! All the best with your new property too

Congrates Daz! Don't worry guys, i'll be there next time and i'll prove to you that power can not compensate for talent; by finishing mid-low field

The above is a perfect example, huge guards wrong wheels, even the fronts sit to far in.