Al

I thought it was common practice that mechanics show you the parts they removed or replaced? My mechanic's details are below, they tend to work on a whole range of cars, from imports to locals.

Cheap shit China crap! Honestly, you said you just bought the car, enjoy it as it is and get use to it, because if you never owned a hi-powered car before, you current set-up is already lethal. If you really want to upgrade stick with HKS, Trust, Garrett or Apexi turbos; they are more expensive for a damn good reason. Having a HKS GT2535, you should be making about 230-240rwkw, provided you have all the right supportive mods, which is heaps for a road car. Any chance of detailed spec of the car's current mods and maybe a dyno graph?

Unless i could swing a job up there and get paid to drive to and from Shepparton . If that's the case i'll be there about 9am and be at the motel by about 1pm, with a few Johnies in hand . Will let you know Thursday Dave.

I use a Bosch 044

Water and oil lines were custom made by Pirtek, using some special grade braided lines. Top mount manifold, so no spacer required. Also got the HD actuator through Slide and it's working really well, no boost creep at all. My setup is not the best comparison as i am running a RB30DET. Here is a graph (run-in tune), just to show you the boost curve of my set-up. Solid line is boost.

Good pick-up +1 to replace walbro pump.

Don't own a 32, so can't really help, just know it's alot easier than doing a 33. Seen it done on a few 32's and looks well hidden (ie: you need to know what to look for). Contact TurboX (Greg) he may be able to help you.

Agreed! Having a 32, you could have easily modified your std airbox to get a cai done, fitted a top quality filter panel and your engine bay would still look stock, yet the box would be good for at least 250rwkw (if done properly) and probably out perform 98% of the filters on the market.

I have never seen anyone post up a torque comparison so here is mine Same dyno, same tuner.

May as well post up here, graphs show run-in tune. Will post up again once full tune is complete, may be a few more months though. Just posting the comparison between my previous rb25 set-up to the new rb30 set-up. First is a power comparison and second is a torque comparison. Can't wait till the full tune

Other have been done for that too. If you have an aluminum wing or support brackets, then yes they are illegal as they could further injure a pedestrian in an accident. Bullshit i know, but i am also at risk of being done for it

I got my internally gated GT3076R through Slide on these forums. Here is his new thread, i just happened to see: Slide's Garrett Turbos

Very hard to tell with photos; even though the connector is damaged it is still largely intact, so should still work. Have you checked the bulb? Does the other side work? If not have you checked the fuse? Send a PM to Nisswreck, he may help you with the parts.

Chris that avatar is just soooooo wrong

Good price. blitz r33: Just noticed that you have the "fog" lights in your indicator assembly; you could tell the difference by the smaller orange area in your indicators, compared to the ones linked to above, also the reflector line in yours go from top-to-bottom, while the non fog light items go from left-to-right. These aren't as common as the indicator only units, but can eventually be found. If you intend to fit a fmic to your car in the near future, you'll need the non fog light units as the ones you currently have are deeper and will most likely hit the cooler. I know, because i had this same problem and purchased new indicators through Nissan. Both sets use the same loom, so they will just plug right in.

Honestly if you like it DON"T SELL IT! But if you do decide to sell it, then i wouldn't let it go for less than $800. If the guy really wants it he could pay double the price for a std S2 bar. These things are rare, and offering you the same $'s as a std S2 bar is a joke. In 8yrs i have only seen pics of this bar fitted on two other 'lines in Australia. And we all know how common 33's are

Sorry man, my bad! You do have the UTTER RARE R33 GTST S2, 50th anniversary, factory option, GTR style bar NICE PICK-UP. Those bars are worth a mint, almost as rare as "Hens teeth". But unfortunately i am still not a great fan of the headlight over-hang, sorry Since you are also from VIC, maybe you should come to a meet/cruise so that i could see how it looks in person

No pain mate, i had to learn to when i bought my 'line 8yrs ago The bar comes in two pieces: 1/ The plastic, cosmetic, skin that you see 2/ Behind the plastic skin is a metal reinforcement bar (ie: reo). This is the structural strength of the front bar. In most cases when you hit the front bar with any decent force the plastic mainly bounces back into shape after the hit (just like yours pretty much), but the reo will be bashed in and bent. It's easier just to replace it, rather than try and straighten it out again, and if you get a bar like mine, i'm not sure your style reo would fit. To remove the plastic skin you need to remove your grill. Under the grill there are 3 plastic clips, just pull those out. You'll then need to jack the front of the car up and remove the front part of your guard liners, on either side, in the wheel arches. From the inside of the guard/wheel-arch, where the bar meets the guards, there are two bolts, on either side, that need to be removed. Once all 4 bolts are removed, you'll need to get something like a ruler and slide it under the middle of the headlights, into the white clips that hold the bar to the reo, and then gently pull the bar forward. repeat for other side. Now disconnect the clips on the back of the indicators and the bar should then be free to be removed. You should then be left with the reo, which is only held by two big bolts, on either side, attached to the chassis rails. When ordering the bumper, make sure you also get the indicator mounting brackets (one bracket for each indicator). Not sure if the brackets are different, but i know your indicators are the same.

Jrocket that bar is meant for a S2 and is a fibreglass copy of the 400R bar. I personally don't like how your headlights overhang the top of the bar, it just isn't meant for a S1, but there are S1 versions of that bar.

Well hell in that case you may as well go and buy some 1500cc injectors so your "experienced" tuner can make 340rwkw @ 79% duty cycle. No one questioned the abilities of your tuner, they are saying that something else may be causing your injectors to run harder; but a good tuner would know that 740cc injectors are good for 400+rwkw, so he should be looking at why your setup requires such a high duty cycle. I do have an adjustable fpr, but it's currently running std pressure. Once my new engine is run-in, i intend to run more boost and hopefully crack into the 300+rwkw range. It is at this time i plan to see if i could get away with adjusting the fpr; If not i could always buy yours for a very cheap price

No probs mate and glad to help. As swink33 said, the problem with fibreglass bars is they never fit 100%, and if you gently hit something or scrape a curb they crack and requires repair. I like the std bars as if i accidentally hit something, they tend to just flex and bounce back into shape. I found a 2nd bar for my car, for when i do track days, on these forums, but keep looking and you'll find one on the net. Your car is still drivable, so don't panic if you don't find one in the first couple of days. If you contact some import wreckers in your state, i'm sure they'll be able to freight it to you, don't forget the reo too. Good luck and thanks for you appreciative comments Alan

Get your car checked. I am making 274rwkw @ 15psi on a rb30det, using 550cc and my duty cycle only reaches 72% MAX.

Had one on my car and have now removed it. No advantages gained with it installed

Happy B'day Pat!!! All the best mate and have a great night

+1 agreed 100% Here is a pic of the S1 bar i am refering to: Unmodified: Click Here My standard S1 bar modified for more air flow to fmic: