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Al

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Everything posted by Al

  1. That's why i stated he needed a money back guarantee
  2. Look for import wreckers in your state, or even people wrecking 33's that have been written-off. Front bar should be no more than $200, reo about $150 and indicator $75 new from Nissan (so pay less for s/h). I would consider fitting the later S1 bar (some refer to it as a Type-M), would look great with your grill.
  3. The turbos i mentioned are direct bolt ons, to the factory manifolds. The HKS turbos can come as a complete kit, so you don't have to spend more money on water/oil lines, dump pipes, intake pipes, fmic piping, etc. Why go external gate on such a low power goal? Better to keep it internal, when you consider epa, defects, etc.
  4. MAKE SURE YOU GET A MONEY BACK GUARANTEE..... Don't believe everything a sales person tells you In my option, they are a cheap shit turbo and are VERY laggy for the power they produce. 300whp=220wkw You will be much better off finding a HKS GT2530 or GT2535; or a Garrett equivalent.
  5. Al

    West Meet

    Honestly do not go a 3540, unless you get it extremely cheap, and go for the GTRS, it's a lot better. Or speak to Vic about the turbo he wants to put on a 25; he has been discussing turbine combos with Kyp at ATP.
  6. Al

    West Meet

    Opening up the turbo will show signs if you have oil supply issues. But the turbo was questionable from the start
  7. About bloody time
  8. I have since spoken to Dale from PSI Parts and he has kindly agreed to exchange my cam cover, once i have the time to send the original one back to him. I have since removed my frustrated post as i now realise PSI Parts are an honest business. Dale i know it has been a while since we last spoke, but i haven't as yet had the time to post the cover, sorry it took me so long to find where i had posted my comments.
  9. Can you please list all the missing parts from the head? I could see manifold, turbo, injecters, plenum are missing but what about cams, cam gears, vct, etc Just would like to know what's missing. I have been considering reassembling my rb25, just in case , as i have just built a fully worked rb30det, i have most stock items, but have ported and cam'ed my existing head.
  10. Al

    West Meet

    Did you sell it again?
  11. Al

    Get Well Lauz_90

    All the best for a speed recovery Lauz!
  12. Completely different turbo mate. Ever wonder why KKR turbos are so laggy? They are built cheaply with huge clearances and inefficient turbine designs. I am talking about the internal clearance between ext wheel and ext. housing. As the ext. wheel is pretty big for a small housing you will have boost control issues. The only way to solve the issue is to slow the gases going into the turbo, whether my timing adjustment or by bleeding off more exhaust gases. Have a chat to Kyp at ATP, he is Victoria's No.1 turbo guru. Have you compared the trim specs from an XR6 turbo to this turbo? You'll probably find a few differences, so pretty pointless comparing the two
  13. Nice way NOT to answer the question Daz
  14. That's what i was thinking to myself No spike here: GT30R-IW
  15. I have one if you could be bothered coming to get it (S1 R33) You are welcome to borrow it for a short period, to diagnose the problem.
  16. Had a chat to my mechanic and Andriano is partly right. Even though i have a similar setup, with the same size ext housing on the turbo, you are running a bigger hp turbo, thus having a bigger ext wheel. The bigger wheel in the same size housing will not allow enough air to flow past through the housing without spinning the wheel faster and faster. Two options: Upgrade to a 1.06a/r ext housing, will also give you better top end, or "bleed off" more gases (ie: larger feed to gate and larger gate or run 2 gates) Either way not really the "fault" of the manifold design
  17. Hey saw this car at EAS a few months, how is it all going? Have you considered changing the chrome surround headlights to the black 2dr ones? Would match your bonnet and grill alot better, considering you haven't gone for bling rims etc.
  18. Al

    West Meet

    Hope to be there.
  19. Well i just completed my rb30det build: Poncams, head porting, ETM manifold (similar to 6boost), GT30R 0.82a/r INTERNALLY GATED. I have no issues with boost creep and i'm sure a 44mm external gate flows more air than my internal gate. Here are a couple of pics; the first is my engine setup, showing the ETM manifold and the second shows my boost curve (solid blue line) with only the actuator controlling boost.
  20. Same here. The three in the DIN consist of water temp, oil temp, and oil pressure. I also have my screen for the wolf hand controller mounted in the ashtray cavity, but is hard to read when driving, hence the need for gauges. None of the gauges disturb my vision through the windscreen.
  21. I dare say that the 6boost item is a tried and proven design, you are not the first to use it and many people before you have had no issues. It seems you unfortunately don't want to listen to any advise given to try and help your cause. Before questioning the work of someone else, do the VERY SIMPLE test: - Unbolt the cat from the dump pipe and do a power run. A restriction in the exhaust causes back pressure, thus causing boost to creep/increase. If you are not prepared to listen to any advice, best not to ask What is the I.D. (Inner Diameter) of the wastegate pipe/flange, before the wastegate?
  22. Good to see a great turnout ; sorry i didn't make it Thanks Paul for the headsup
  23. Just to let you know. Even without an ecu plugged into the car, your dash lights and other electrical components still work. I know, i had no ecu in my car during the engine rebuild but was still able to use my windows and crank the engine. So until you have power to your ignition and dash you will not know if you have fried the ecu. My first question is: Do you have an alarm/immobilizer? If so this could be fried and is stopping the ignition from powering on. You need to test the power in a progressive manner. Using a multi-meter or a test light hook one lead to GND. First measure the main cable going from the Batt to the fuse box, then measure across the "shunt", after that measure some of the "inputs" to the relays or fuses. On the other hand this could be well out of your scope (as your current adventures have shown), bite the bullet and take it to a qualified Auto Elec to sort out the issue
  24. SAU VIC general meeting on tomorrow night. Move the west meet to Bell's Hotel, just off Kings Way, South Melb.
  25. If it wasn't a good friend's b'day i would have. I will be at Switch, Knox, having a huge piss up I have known you cousin for a few months now. Love his bike, absolutely awesome!! One day i'll be able to come to one of your events. Have a good one
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