Al

Didn't even realize it was a SA thread, that explains alot of what is being said. Whether you believe me or not, i have no affiliation with this person. SLED: If you read my posts i never pointed you out as saying you called him a scammer, I used the term "you all" which is a generalization. Just because i posted after your post doesn't mean my reply is directed directly at you, i would have quoted your post it i wanted to discuss/argue what you said. Still just disagree with how people have made assumptions. Just looks like a bunch on teens talking the usual bs without any factual merit

Am................ who said he never tried Now i do realize that is a very debatable topic, but i chose to go with what he felt was best.

Hey Ferah, Met your brother at EAS, seems to be a good bloke. Has some big plans for that 34

Those are not genuine. The genuine rims have "axis" embossed into one of the spokes, just like the pic in the first post. Personally i prefer the Super Heros

But how do you all come to the conclusion it is such a scam? It's a "pick-up" ebay sale, he has given 2 contact numbers, he has progress pics and how the car currently looks, etc. Sounds like he has pumped in alot of money into a project and can't afford to spend more time/money to complete it, therefor he is trying to sell it in "as is" condition. Would i buy such a car; hell no. Is it a good price; NO I could see the humor in how he has placed the ad and his style of English, but this talk of scammer, etc, is just crap and unfounded.

The top half of the t/b's need to be "painted" on one side and the bottom half on the other. The butterly has to move away from the seal, not scrap over it. Can't understand why you're giving up so easily. Tell then, if they want to replace the AAC valve you're happy to let them do so and pay for it; after you have seen that it fixes the problem. If the problem is not fixed, they could keep the AAC valve and do what they have been told.

I realize you're pretty new to the forums, but can't understand where your logic and racism is coming from. The pic clearly shows R34 front fenders fitted to the car. From the looks of the pics, IT'S AN UNFINISHED PROJECT. If you want to call his "bluff" call anyone of the two numbers provided and determine whether he is legit. I have absolutely no affiliation with this guy, just can't stand people talking shit about things they have no idea about.

Don't get it: what's so suss and why is he a tool? He started a project, hasn't finished it and is asking too much for a stripped car; but can't see why it's suss.

One down two to go

Even my mechanic's custom made plenum still runs them. Why the hell would you degrade you engine to prehistoric tuning and rough idle, etc

1/ The V4 has been off the market for a couple of years, due to the release of the V500, so is it still under warranty? 2/ Is this the "plug-in" version or the "wire-in" version? 3/ What sensors are included?

Forgot all about it Too busy ripping 250 CD into my new ipod I have 34GB of Hip-Hop/RNB goodness....................and about 2GB of other stuff Will try to remember the next one, but my car goes to the mechanic on Saturday for the re-rebuild, but i'll come down with my Hilux, just to say hi.

I am currently using one on my rb25/30 setup. I had to do 2 modifications to make it all fit nicely. 1/ Move the Power Steering pulley about 5mm forward on the shaft. My mechanic also welded the shaft to the pulley to add strength. The pulley had to be moved forward as the GTR belts are thicker (4 ribbed) than the GTST belts (3 ribbed). Thus the ATI pulley has the p/steering belt a little more forward than the gtst. I am still using the GTST belts; haven't had an issue. 2/ Lathed up a spacer/hub for the engine fan. A 10mm spacer was made for the fan to move it further away from the ATI pulley, as without the spacer there was only a 0.5-1.0mm clearance between the fan blades and the front of the pulley. 10mm was a fraction too big as it clipped the shroud when loaded at 5000rpm, i just simply trimmed the shroud to clear the fan, but i think a 5mm spacer would have no issues. Note: Mod 2/ would not be necessary if you are going to use Thermo Fans to replace the clutch fan. My mechanic has a thing that he doesn't like using thermo fans on Skylines as he has found the cars to overheat in the past. His build his rules; that way he's the only one i could blame if something goes wrong

If you are required to display P's in QLD you'll be required to display them here. If they find out that you're studying here (ie: staying longer that 3-6 months) then you will be forced to obtain a VIC license. You'll be a lot better off buying a car in QLD and having QLD rego, VIC cops would be less inclined to hassle you, due to the paperwork involved.

Just to let you know there is a "Aussie spec" set of Teins. Re-valved and re-sprung for Australian roads by Tein's Australian distributor, Fulcrum. They are great. I currently have mine on the hardest setting and find them stiff but not jarring, so on the softest setting they may be too soft . Once i install my EDFC i will be able to control the stiffness from inside the cabin. With brakes all you need is a good set of slotted rotors, good quality pads, and GREAT quality brake fluid. I use Motul RBF600 brake fluid, great for the street and track and Ferado DS2500 pads which lean more towards track use but i have had no issues on the streets.

My 19's were not clear coated as i wanted the satin finish. My 17" track rims are clear coated as i wanted to see the difference between satin and gloss. The gloss makes the "pearl" in the powder coat shine more, but the satin finish is smoother as it obviously has less layers.

Thanks!

I am pretty sure this does not apply to GTSTs. Sounds like you have an air leak elsewhere

The surface was hand sanded before coating. Coating has now lasted about 4.5yrs. In that time they have seen multiple track fun days, motokahnas, drags, spirited cruises, etc.; Yes on a couple of occasions i cnbf swapping rims so i done a couple of track fun days with the 19's . The coating has not cracked or bubbled, so they have withstood all the punishment. I have seen other rims powder-coated and some have flaked off, etc. This would be due to poor workmanship and preperation. I only had to re-coat one rim as i got a little too close to my garage center brick pillar

My 19's were originally a pearl silver colour, but would always look white in photos. When i painted the car, i powder-coated the rims to "precious steel pearl". Didn't need sandblasting as rims were still in unmarked condition. Payed $120 for all four 19" rims Before: After:

Al = Volunteer One day i'll enter again..............

May i just ask why you removed these solenoids, motors, etc?

From the pics it looks nice But (and i will freely say i am NO expert) isn't the horizontal/harness bar (the one the harness is resting on) a little too low, thus creating too much angle to the seat? It is my understanding that the harness should come off the seat as straight as possible, but not quite 90degs, to prevent the driver's spine from being crushed in an accident.

That's because you don't read his requirements and post up shit! I would go with what PaulR33 advised, would be a good package to meet your requirements, with acceptable response. If you have the money, get a set of Tomei Poncams and while you have the head open fit some Tomei valve springs. While you have it almost all apart, a quick reco/freshen-up of the head may not go a stray (valve stem seals, etc) Cams will definitely help mid to high rpm range, but are not necessary to make good power. They will make less power in the low rpm range, but is hardly noticable.

Keep up the great work and UPDATES!!