Al

Wont i just transfer the crank from this block into the new block?

Thanks, that is what i was thinking of. Any idea how much a set of rings are for a cp piston? ie: How much would you sell them for, to a guy that has just had all the joy riped out of his build?

That's like saying: you're selling your gtst for $30,000 to cover the cost of buying a gtr It doesn't happen.

Now onto more depressing news After less than 25km of driving the car i noticed a small puddle of engine oil. Was upset but thought "shit happens, something didn't seal properly or wasn't fastened properly". Wasn't leaking much, but opted not to drive it much till my mechanic checked it out, as it was coming from the turbo side. After the long weekend (Melbourne-Labor day) i went past my mechanic's w/shop to check it out. After an hour under the car things went from bad to worst; not worse but WORST! Even though the machinist was paid to crack test, x-ray and sonic test the block, he somehow missed a crack/pin-hole on the side of the block; or he just pocketed the money and didn't test it at all, as i find it hard to believe that any experienced person could miss an existing hole in a block Any way even though i am obviously pissed, there is nothing much i can do. A new block has to be tested and machined (by a different w/shop) and all components transfered over. The bill WILL be paid by the machinist, as it was his fault that the crack wasn't picked up. Due to taking the car home, to a detailer, mechanic, Melbourne F1GP, etc. The engine would have traveled about 200km. I would like to know whether certain parts are not transferable. ie: bearings, rod bolts, piston rings, etc. I have been assured that due to the low km's traveled that all parts will be safe to transfer, but i want an independent opinion. Not to be rude, but I really only want to hear from people in the trade, that really know if transferring all items to the new block will be ok and if any items need to be replaced or machined, etc. Your help is greatly appreciated!

Some things are out of your control. For example: The sump - Ordered a race baffled 7ltr sump through H.E. - After 5 weeks sump hadn't been started. Around the same time i ordered my manifold with ETM. After speaking with Leigh i cancelled my H.E. order and ordered my sump with ETM. - 6 weeks later sump arrives (was promised a 2 week turn around). Sump filled with metal filling (from grinding), rusty mesh was spayed with a $2 spay can which would have contaminated the oil, sworf(sp?) in various places, etc. As the mesh was welded in it would have been impossible to clean the sump properly. - 1 week to determine whether Leigh was willing to do the job properly and split the sump to clean it out. He wasn't interested and refunded the money upon the return of the sump. - Another 5 week wait after reordering the sump through H.E. NOTE: ETM ext manifolds are awesome and a work of art. I am 100% happy with his manifold.

Some things are best left to rest

No other can be as great as the original

I am happy to see that i am no longer the only person "flying the flag" for EAS Performance .

Looks ace. If you fitted spacers behind the 34gtr rims, it will push the rims out, closer to the gaurd, making the rims look bigger and the car lower Would slao look tougher

I would also like to thank two people on these forums. At the start of the build, both took the time to answer all my PM's and help me decide on the right combination that would best achieve my goals. Both were 100% on the money!! THANKS CUBES AND R33_RACER !! All your help and advise were greatly appreciated

It's taken 12-13 months, but most the delays were due to other w/shops ie: - 3 months for the block machiniest ie: - 17 weeks to finally get a good sump H.E. -> ETM -> H.E. ie: - 5 weeks for the engine bay to be painted etc.. While i was waiting it was hugely frustrating, especially missing all the SAU-VIC events and cruises, but i honestly couldn't be happier with the result.

Nope... All pipes, plenum, brackets, catch can, cam covers, power steering reserviour, etc have been powder coated. RB120WHY: Looks like it's going to be one very aggressive engine, keep us posted

I think it came off a Honda Accord or maybe a Prelude. Not too sure as my mate got it from his father's wrecking yard and he just searched through a stash of different water bottles.

Look at my sig: Have been a happy customer for the last 7yrs, from day one of my Skyline ownership

Thanks mate. As much effort was spent on making the bay look neat as making the engine strong and reliable. The hose to the airbox is the "breather hose" from the catch can, in the top right corner. Just like factory, it is plumbed into the intake. The catch can is properly baffled and also drains into the H.E. sump. For some strange reason i am particularly happy with the fitment of the washer bottle inside the guard and the snorkel coming through into the bay.

http://sau.garagespank.com/login.php Mavric had a HKS manifold for sale, not sure if he sold it yet

0.83 I chose the components to achieve great response, as i like to use the car for motokahnas, soon to do a few hill climbs and a few track days. Big power was never my goal

Pretty much. Feels damn great, especially the torque Joel, just compared your graph to mine (on the dyno comparison web page) and you have more midrange; is that your final tune and how much boost are you running?

I'll be very happy with anything over 300rwkw. My aim was to have as much power as my previous set-up, with more torque and response - I have already achieved that with the run-in tune At 20psi, with a final tune, i may see 310-330rwkw, but time will tell.

Well mine is back on the road; but in run-in tune. Couldn't be happier, i keep grinning every time i press the GO peddle. Below is a few pics of the completed engine bay and the run-in tune. The boost is very responsive, and that's only controlled by the actuator (no bleed valve, EBC or restricters) Once i have completed 1000km, it will be wound up to 20psi, then the fun really begins

Well car is now back on the road - in it's run-in tune Here are some updates of the engine bay and run-in tune.

Is the back rest angle adjuster on both sides or just the left?

So where were those photos taken? I lived in the west all my life and do not recognize that place Unless it's the new Safeway rooftop parking, which i haven't been there yet, but read the next meet may be there. I have worked in that Safeway heaps, installed and maintain all their weighing equipment (scales). Well in two weeks i'll be keen to join you all. After a 12 month absence my car will be back cruising the western streets; on occasion Kelvin's car looks ace! Love the kit but could never entertain the thought of putting it on my car, due to the motorsport activities i do and plan to do.

Camber tops for r32/r33/r34 are useless, due to the double wishbone suspension setup. Camber tops only work for Silvia's, 180's, etc.

Could only be said by a 4dr owner Ever wonder why 4drs are always cheaper than 2drs