Al

My car will be ready, but will be displayed at the F1 GP Why this weekend!! Damn Kev, one day i will make it to one of your track days!

done

Dyno graph? I assume you have an external gate?

Dyno graph?

Brentt, i have replied to your PM. I have the same goals for my build and had chosen to Garrett GT3076R-IW (GT30R) 0.83A/R. With my engine specs i expect to get about 300-330rwkw@20psi, with the response equivalent to that of a std hi-flow on a std rb25 engine. Not sure if this will be too tail happy, till the car is running, but the other option would be a GT35R.

PM Silva33 (Dave) he probably still has his in his wrecked 33. As above, the mechanism lives in the b-pillar (the pillar near your head), easy to replace just requires a little time, patience and common sense.

Just a small test: Accelerate coming to a corner (nothing crazy), then before turning for the corner, press the clutch in and let the car roll through the corner. Does it still clunk and lock?

I meant he replaced to line/s between from the boot to the engine bay. Not sure if it was just one line or both.

Justin is correct the R34 fuel lines are nylon (or some other form of hard plastic type material). My mechanic just ran a new line from fuel reg to tank

I have been with them for 7yrs, i'm sure you'll be right If you have gone to EAS recently, mine is the pearl red R33, with the nice shiny motor

Hey Chris welcome!! All the best with the repairs.

Great to hear mate! Hopefully this will catapult your career into the big $$$$$. Small sacrifice for long term gains

16psi is about spot on, so is the 250rwkw.

Looks awesome!! Congrates mate

Jack normally i would agree with what you have stated, but when i enter a dyno day, i like to compair my mods/performance to another car's mods/performance. This usually can not be done as all dynos read different, and should only be taken as a tuning tool. But when you have all the cars on the same dyno on the same day, it should be an ideal situation to compare results, otherwise why pay the entry fee? I for one can not understand how a car with an rb25neo, Tomei cams, 550cc inj, 450hp turbo and pfc; gets almost 50kw less than a car with an rb25, std injectors, std cams, 400hp turbo and pfc. It's just beyond me

No offense but sounds like you're taking your car to guys that only deal with local NA cars, or have no clue. Take you car to a known import tuner, someone that has a good reputation, on these forums, and in your state. Boost cut and speed limit cut have nothing to do with having a tuned ecu and tuning the car for your level of mods. Who told you your ecu has a boost/speed cut? The sever jerking is what i experienced on a cold night, when i had a std ecu, at 12psi and the ecu activated the boost cut, as it over boosted, due to the very cold air. If your mechanic had an idea, there would be no way that he would run 15psi on a std turbo with a std ecu and smic. Is he trying to blow your turbo/engine on purpose? - Lower boost to 10psi - Purchase FMIC - Purchase aftermarket ECU - Increase boost to 12psi. Do it in that order, otherwise you are asking for trouble and a big hole in your pocket. If you want more power after that, you'll need fuel pump, injectors and turbo. Then if you're aiming to make over 280rwkw, you may consider buying a forward plenum, otherwise your just spending money in the wrong places.

That would have had to be running some mega boost and top quality race fuel to achieve that power from a GT35R. That's of course IF the dyno was accurate, which is probably unlikely .

I'll be there. Hope Kaaz has marked my membership as "paid"; after i paid at the last GM

Thanks Gary. The PM was sent on the 2/2/08, just waiting on reply. If you haven't received it please let me know.

Looks nice Zacutti! Regarding the gapping looks the the bar reo on the driver's side needs to drop a little, or the passenger side needs to be raised. There are two bolts on the chassis rail, on either side. You're emphasizing 3 months try 1 year and still waiting (engine rebuild), but soon to be finished.

For the stuff i "plan" to do, i'd rather get a custom one made. I have since heard it costs about $250-$300 from Whiteline, not sure how accurate that figure is till i call them. But i am still open to other options/suppliers. IF the sway bar does not arrive in time for the F1, is it reasonably safe to carefully drive the car to Albert Park, without a sway bar fitted, as i plan to put it on display?

Due to Troy's warning we took the precaution and dropped the mounts off the chassis, the sway bar only dropped about 1.5", as it rested on the K-frame. The sump still hit the bar. Basically the diagonally-vertical sections of the sway bar (near the sump) need to be extended about 2", so the bar folds up at the front of the sump.

Chris until you bed it in properly, change the oil every 1000km for the first two oil changes, the diff will be very clunky, especially for the first 1000km.

Troy i have the KAAZ in mine. The mechanic (who ever they may) most probably would not have done the fig 8's. It's easy to do, but you need to have some open space, and 20min. Not sure if it's too late to do now, but it wont hurt. Also what oil are you using? I have changed the oil in my diff twice now (since the KAAZ install) and each time it has gotten better. The next and final oil change, i'll be using Castrol oil, need to speak to Pete (Bass Junky) to see what type. Even with the current oil i don't feel mine as being that bad.