Al

By the time i go back to the w/shop the sway bar will be off the car, mechanic may take pics to "shove in HE's face" as they assured him it bolts straight on with no problems. Basically the bar hits about 1.5" from the front of the sump, if the diagonal/vertical arms were about 2" long it should bolt on without a problem.

Sydneykid you have a PM regarding the following. Ok, today my engine was fitted into the engine bay and just as Roy advised the HE sump hits my Whiteline sway bar . So does anyone know where i could get a similar sway bar to the Whiteline item, that will clear the sump, with the same tension adjustable holes?

In that case why ask for a "show car"? Having a nice clean car is far from show. That's the problem with Autosalon these days, they just accept std cars with rims, then people start calling them "show cars" pffffffffft

Happy b'day Mav!! Will catch up soon buddy

You can order the sump to gave the drain plug on the other side. I made a custom order for mine to have two "-10" fittings for the oil returns (one on each side), one oil temp sensor fitting and something else i have forgotten. The mods were done perfectly and placed in the idea places.

Damn that sounds really expensive! Hope they are not taking advantage of your ignorance

Those rims are different to the ones in the pic.

Not sure about R34's, but on the 33's the hks manifold and GT30R or GT35R will hit the engine mounts.

Oh, why didn't you go hi-flow rb25(neo) turbo? Would have made more power again, as the VG30 turbo has a smaller compressor cover/wheel. I don't believe this turbo will be capable of much more than 250kw, due to comp wheel/cover sizing: "240@12psi" "250@15psi" - 3psi increase for 10kw, indicates that turbo is passing it's efficiency level. Don't get me wrong 240rwkw is awesome, but i wouldn't stress the engine more, by increasing boost, just for 10rwkw.

It's a shame you have to work so hard to sell such awesome rims. Wish my current situation was a little different, as i would have bought them a week ago and saved you these hassles.

It's so ghey that HKS decided to make one for the 26 and sell it for a small fortune

Depending on the rim and if you like the style. Also the quality of the paint work plays a big part in making it look good. When i powder-coated mu rims, it was as good as a rim change, as it totally set off the car.

The ticking noise is normal IF the solenoid has been mounted directly on the car body. Use a rubber/foam buffer in between the solenoid and the car. The scrapping sounds like the turbo is gone Remove the intake pipe off the turbo and check for excessive play. The shaft should only move about 0.5mm back and forth, there should be no up/down movement. 13psi is pretty high for a std car/turbo. Is the exhaust complete from the turbo-back or is it std from turbo-to-cat and then aftermarket from cat-back? Do you have a FMIC? Was the car checked on a dyno after mods had been fitted?

Tharaka that looks awesome, nice purchase buddy!!! Hope to see you and the car soon. So is it a "hiflow VG30" or a "hiflow RB25 with a VG30 ext housing"? My old turbo (RB25 with a VG30 ext housing) has been fitted to an R34, with an untouched std engine, for the last 2 years. It's making about 273rwkw on 15psi, without any issues, and this guy uses all it's ponies . More boost didn't see substantial increases, so 270rwkw is about it's limit.

refer to the RB30 conversion thread; has all the answers you need Having said that, you'll need to marry the gtr style sump to the rb30 block. It may be easier to buy a blown rb26 and build that up slowly.

Damn i'm still tempted , they look so horn!! But i have stopped all further purchases till my car is back on the road and complete. Good luck with the sale!! PS: you have mucked up the tyre sizes again

0.65 is very small, spark will not be very efficient. If you find that spark is breaking down when plugs are gapped to 0.8 then consider buying splitfire coil pack, as your std ones are worn. What blk33t stated is spot on, but the plugs will also not be helping.

You will be when you drive it

Sounds awesome!! especially for the track. But would be a little too laggy and way too tail happy on the motorkahnas and hill climbs, especially when doing those 180deg handbrake turns. If i wont more power it's only a matter of buying new turbo, bigger injectors and an ext gate. The engine has been balanced and built to handle a huge amount of power. Well thanks for your encouraging comments and hope you achieve your desired power goal

VCT is great! If i find that it isn't as beneficial with this set-up, i could simply program the Wolf3D to keep it On all the time or Off. Engine/car has been set-up for the occasional motorkahna, hill climb and track day. Response was more important to me than peak power; after all, how many rwkw can you put to the ground, on a rwd car? If i went with my original plan i would have used my HKS GTRS, but i was told the engine would choke at approx 5000rpm. The GT30R was the smallest turbo recommended, through various sources. Hoping to make about 300-330rwkw with quick response and a huge power band.

Inlet cam gear with VCT: Std gear modified to be adjustable (note the bolts and markings)

Getting close now

Great new Berin; happy for ya mate! As much as i may sound like a hypocrite i would suggest to buy a house and stop wasting money with renting a house. Do it soon as house prices are starting to sky-rocket again.

$1050. But it also included two custom "-10" fittings (one on each side) for the oil return, another fitting for my oil temp sensor and i think there was a 4th custom fitting for something else. Pretty much got it "trade price"

Pretty much the same.