Al

Yet another know-it-all Read my previous post

Thermal wrap does over time "crystallize" the metal, thus making it more prone to crack. I am not too fussed about that, as my car is not a daily and a dump/down pipe is easy and cheap to replace. I am more interested in keeping heat temps down and protecting the cabling, lines, etc in that area, that's why i am using the thermal wrap and a fabricated shield; ie: two layers of shielding. Even though i have no proof, i would say that whoever told you top mounts are more laggy than bottom mounts are ill informed. Look at the 6boost "low-mount" manifold above, what makes that less laggy than a 6boost top-mount manifold? They look very similar. BTW what turbo will you be using?

Should try to be informative/helpful for once, instead of "belittling" people who are less knowledgeable as you. The cable is just a cat. "over-temp" sensor, nothing to be too concerned about. If there is no provisions to fit the sensor in your cat, just tuck it in one of the holes in the chassis rail. I find it hard to understand why you persisted to drive the car, even though something was obviously wrong. Sounds like a cooler pipe, but if it was something more serious, you could have been up for a new engine. You obviously have limited mechanical knowledge, so best to take it to a mechanic to get it fixed and possibly replace the plugs.

You don't need a track car for this Tassie trip. Sure there is a track day or two, but you will still have heaps of fun in a std car. On the roads we will be abiding by all traffic laws and having a great time.

I didn't say it was bad or anything. But if i am going to spend $2000+ for a week in Tassie, i would much rather spend it driving the roads, instead of sitting on the sidelines waiting all day for a 2sec glimpse at the R35 GTR. Even though i would really love to do Targa (highly unlikely), i can not justify spending all that money just to spectate The R35 will be around soon enough, i can wait till the time comes where i see, feel, and admire the 35GTR at my own pace

GREAT!! Sounds like another awesome year! Hopefully my car will be on the road for most of it

The quality custom made manifolds, like 6boost, Extreme Turbo Manifolds (ETM), etc , have an option to ceramic coat it. This acts as a great insulator. You can also buy a turbo blanket, that covers the ext. housing. For my set-up (high-mount) i have chosen to ceramic coat the manifold, get a heat shield custom fabricated by my mechanic and use thermal straps for the dump/down pipe. The heat shield will also cover the top part of the dump pipe, as i do not like the look of the thermal wrap.

Great to hear mate!

I want to go to Tassie to drive, not to spectate

They are basically like a top mount just flipped the other way. 6boost low mount

So glad to read that. I have already paid for mine, hopefully i'll have it by Mon/Tue.

On my 33 i probably have about 15-20mm

One pic is not enough will do once i have the car finished

Unless you get a HKS cast low mount manifold, it really doesn't matter. Have you seen a custom made low mount manifold? You have these tubes curving up then down into a collector, It's just as "attention seeking" as a top mount and can in no way be mistaken for a "std manifold" Not having a go or anything, just stating that if you're worried about cops, defects, etc, neither is any good, just stick with the std manifold. At the same time, if you're modifying to the extent that you are considering a manifold, then there will be 100 other things for the cops to pick on, what's one more .

Don't think i have pics of the inside of the bar and my mechanic is closed till Monday. If i remember i'll pop past there and take a few pics, as the front bar is currently off the car. Any way this is what i done. - Measure up the hole and cut the mesh about 2" bigger all round - Using blocks of wood and a rubber mallet, i folded the lower edge - Then placed the mesh on the bar and measured the top fold - once again used the wood blocks and mallet to fold mesh. - placed the mesh on the bar, central to the hole, cut the excess mesh along the top and bottom folds, on either side of the hole. - measured one side and used the mallet and block to fold the first side - placed the mesh on the bar, measured the other side and folded. - placed mesh on bar and folded down the excess taps, along the top and bottom, over the sides. used small cable ties on the lower corners to keep tabs folder in tightly - You will also need to trim some of the mesh to fit round the indicator supports - Along the top, the bar has 3 tabs, i drilled a hole in each, to fit a LARGE pop-rivit. The rivit goes through the plastic tab, then the mesh and finally a LARGE washer (with a hole the size of the rivit) or a thin metal plate with corresponding holes. - Finally i used about 3/4 of a tube of sicaflex all round the mesh to hold it to the bar. Work the sicaflex into the mesh with a thin piece of wood or plastic. - Let dry for 24hrs. The sicaflex (black) is very strong and will have no problem supporting the mesh. I ran into a possum at about 30 km/h, the possum must have bounced off the mesh, as the mesh was "torn" half way along the bottom and side folds. I was glad the mesh did it's job and protected the fmic, as the cooler was not touched . PS: During the folding of the mesh i am pretty sure i also used a piece of wood on top and two G-clamps, to get sharp/clean folds Hope that helps, here are a few pics.

Absolute sex on wheels!!

That fabrication is absolutely disgraceful. The whole design, workmanship, etc is of Apprentice/Tafe standard and should not have come anywhere near a car, let alone charging top dollar for it. Just look at that plenum, it's a slapped, rush job. Below is a pic of my mechanic's first major fabrication/big power job for a R33 gtst. Sure it took him a long time to calculate, design, fabricate, etc, but the end result is a professional looking setup, that was proven to work effectively. Everything fabrication you see was done "in-house" apart from the polishing, powder-coating and anodizing.

Nice work Chris! Just thinking if it's worth fitting another two baffled plates, on either side of the existing one, spaced about 5mm apart, with the holes offset, to ensure the mist just doesn't pass through. As i have no ABS in my 33gtst, my mechanic has fabricated a baffled catch can in the ABS location. It too is drained directly into the sump and vented into the intake. Will post pics once car is done, probably in a couple of months.

Welcome to the joys of performance modifications I too haven't driven my car since Feb '07; something that was supposed to be a 3 month build has lasted 11 months and the engine is still not in the car. I honestly can not blame my mechanic, just the performance suppliers Good luck getting your money back, highly unlikely

:lol: Whoever told you that is full of crap. Sorry to say, you have been had, if you are expecting that to happen. For the amount of boost you use (stress on the engine) and the power/response it makes, the turbo is just not worth it.

Not before the finish line The other car will have the beers open an waiting for you, while you wait for boost

Well your "100% sure it will fit" requires the power steering pulley to be modified I have just fitted an ATI rb26 balancer to my rb25 (and yes i did modify the power steering pulley/pump) that i am building. So i do have a spare stock rb25 balancer. Engine had done 104,XXXkm before rebuild. Balancer is currently at my mechanic's workshop, who has shut shop till the 14th of Jan. If you're interested let me know and i'll go there and check the condition of it. I didn't have any problems with it, but as you stated, you don't want something with fine cracks, etc.

GOLD!!!!

I bagz the rims, brakes, and complete engine. How much?