Al

Happy B'day Buddy!! Hope you have an ace day. What, no drinks tonight? Weaksauce..........................

agreed

The only reason i do not like chameleon is because of the dominant brown colour; and don't try to call it Gold Really; what car looks good in brown?

Find a second hand 2530, they aren't badly priced. click here Garrett Gt28rs Just do a search on 2530

Excuse my ignorance: Is this a "dog box" or still using syncos?

The worst thing about slip on spacers is that the wheels are not sitting on the hub rings, located in the middle of all hubs. Therefor all the force exerted on the wheel/hubs is only supported by the studs, which can cause the studs to shear off, thus causing an accident. The quality bolt on spacers are alot better because they are designed to "rest" on the factory hub ring, but also have an additional hub ring at the front for the wheel. Bolts/studs are only there to keep the wheel pressed up against the hub; that's why if you torque the nuts, to specification, it's not extremely tight. The ring is what keeps the wheel located centrally to the hub, and supports/absorbs (can't think of the right word ) all the knocks from the road. And hacking away at control arms, or even calipers, just to fit a rim is a complete joke. The sales rep bought you off cheaply with a beer .

Suspension sorted But still think there may be an issue with traction Time will tell; if too tail happy, i have already started to consider the GT35R, with external gate.

Owned

I am no longer going to say "i'll be there" too many noobs keep farking up my build time" and there is nothing my mechanic or i can do; but reorder parts from another supplier

Couldn't be further from the trueth Yes i am Maltese, and love my cars , but i value my license more. License = job. I do about 50,000+km per year, for work, and in the 12+yrs of driving have never had any type of infringements Don't get me wrong, i am no angle, but there is always a time and place to limit the risk.

Hahaha, nah mate, i was only fooling. Just having withdrawal symptoms from being without my car for sooo long

As mentioned earlier, i dumped sold the Hi-flow for a HKS GTRS, only to find (at a later date) that my exhaust was the main reason for the lag. But that hi-flow is now in a friend's R34 GTT, and it's still going strong, making 270rwkw@15psi. The build is very extensive as it's being prep'ed for motorkhana and track work The key parts: - rb30det conversion (built to rev to 8000rpm) - GReddy plenum - Tuned length, high mount, ext manifold - Garrett GT3076R (GT30R) [smallest turbo recommended for the engine] The end result should be about 300-330rwkw@20psi, with better response than a hi-flow turbo

Pics?

Actually wheels will be more expensive are there are alot more cars with 5 x 114 stud pattern

Didn't hear anything myself You'd think the media would jump to something like that. I could see the headlines: "Young male dies at HOON show"

Can i take up that offer: PLEASE!! I'd be lucky to get my car back b4 Christmas; stupid sump fabricators!

See that's were i am a little disappointed: i farked up an engine but have nothing to show for it, i have no bragging rights! You stating "mine did ALL 6 ringlands" has a bit of cred; or better yet "kicked a leg out of bed". I can't even fark up an engine properly . Funny thing is, on 5.5 cyl the car still felt strong, Driving home, after the race, i gave it a squirt in 2nd gear (to 100km/h) and thought all was good, and the oil out the filter was just massive blow-by. The next morning, when it took almost ten minutes and endless cranks to start, was my first indication something was wrong. Compression went something like: 158, 160, 83, 161,159,160. Yet when the power came on, i had no smoke and the car almost felt as strong as usual. Barely justifies a $15K conversion/build

These turbos are direct replacement to the std turbo; they are designed to bolt up to the std exhaust, std SMIC, std airbox. But obviously if you're buying this turbo you should have already upgraded 2 of the 3 std items So if your existing mods fit your std turbo, then you'll have no issues fitting the GTRS.

Numerous track, motorkhana, drag and cruise days, 7yrs of hard driving. A fair bit of punishment and high temp/stress events. Honestly; when the piston was removed we barely found the fault. 4 hairline cracks between the ring lands, that's it. No melting, detonation, missing bits, etc. Bores, bearings, rods, crank, etc were still in perfect condition and the head of the damaged piston was unmarked. So the conclusion was fatigue.

Forgot to mention: This is a great turbo, especially for the R33/34. They are a perfect match to the rb25/25NEO. If i hadn't lost compression in cyl #3, at a track day, i would have not touched the combo. Absolutely the best compromise between power, lag, drivablity. Good price, Good Luck with the sale

The limit of the turbo is about 270rwkw on pump fuel, using 17-20psi (will not make much more and definitely nowhere close to 300rwkw). I know i had one with Poncams and headporting. Don't forget, this turbo is rated at 400hp, which it about 300kw (AT THE FLYWHEEL), with drivetrain losses you're looking at 250-280rwkw; nothing more. I would like to see that "claimed" 300rwkw GTRS powered Skyline on a Dyno that is not so "power happy". Or it could be possible that his drivetrain gearing is not std, thus fooling the power reading (ie: close ratio box, different diff gears, smaller wheels, etc)

Just realised i started this thread in Nov '05. Back then i stated; "Hopefully this set-up will last approx 12 months, then the bottom end will be treated to forgies....". It actually lasted 16 months and dropped compression in cyl #3 at a Calder Park track meet Now i'm doing a whole lot more than just forgies . Funny how your words come back to haunt you. So i'll state: Hopefully the new setup will last 30 faultless, hassle free, years

R33GOD Why limit yourself because of a faulty product? Not saying that Slide turbos are bad/faulty, as i have had good experiences with Aaron (Slide). Sometimes shit happens and one or two go bad; i know i am in the technology trade. But when you get the replacement unit, don't hold back, it should be good to at least 16-18psi, if it fails then ask for a refund. I know that my high-flow turbo ran out of puff at anything over 16psi (ie: the increase in rwkw did not justify the increase in boost). And with my level of head work, the turbo was limited to 270rwkw. On a std head, i would not expect to see over a genuine 250'ish rwkw.

Hey Lizzy/Daniel, I too had a super light flywheel (4.7kg) and once on boost would race to redline very fast. The cat i was using was a generic "performance" cat, purchased 5yrs earlier, from the local exhaust place. Hence why i think the cat was my main problem. The rest of the exhaust consisted of one long "hotdog", two oval mufflers, and a VT commo tip (attached to the rear muffler) . The mufflers were only about less than 10,000km old, and were 3" diagonally straight through items (ie: you can see through the muffler, but the baffle pipe goes through the canister diagonally; not your typical "straight through" cannon style muffler) I am currently building a new engine for my car, but once it is complete i will be adapting my old custom exhaust to my current dump and cat. I will then do a back-to-back comparison with my newer Apexi exhaust system. If the loss of power with the old exhaust is minimal (5-10rwkw), i will keep the custom exhaust as it is alot quieter and more discrete.

Not really. All bushes, wheels, etc are new items only the housings are std/old, but even these are modified to fit the new wheels. On the other hand you can purchase a 500hp bb core and modify your exhaust and compressor housings to fit. Will be no different to a new Garrett turbo (if done properly), but still retain you factory housings; or at wost case, you could also change the rear housing.