Al

Nice rims. Maybe try: Rampant Performance Imports 1 Steven Court Ringwood VIC 3134 03 9879 7799 http://www.rampant.net.au

Who are these "people"; Qualified mechanics?

BTW: Why are you logged on? Is the trip already boring you

don't get it

So you think that the Nissan engineers have over seen this issue I'm sure they have it under control

Refit your std plumb-back valve, and your idle/stalling issues should go away.

Contact Justin911, via PM. He may have some of the parts required and also lives in VIC. Just from that pic, other items you need: New radiator support New bonnet latch new a/c fan

Very sorry (and upset) to say that Mal and i have to pull, as the car will not be ready; Thanks to a certain business in NSW that believes steel grinding filings, rust and paint in a sump should not be cleaned out thoroughly before assembly and delivery!!!!! NOT FARKEN HAPPY!

No probs Emma and don't keep saying they're dumb questions; If you don't know and are willing to learn all questions are good one Get the ECU your trusted mechanic/tuner likes using, as he will be able to tune it to the best of the ecu's abilities. Problem is that alot of people/tuners will say "i give any ecu a go", but when it doesn't work 100% or smoothly they bag it, only because they have no idea how to use the ecu features to make the car run smoothly. I myself have used the Wolf 3D ecu for about 4-5yrs and have found it to be great. On the other hand i have seen many other people come to my mechanic with a very poorly tuned Wolf, and a very disheartened owner. My mechanic then pulls out his laptop dumps my tune into theirs and problems are 80% fixed, the owners leaves the car there with a smile on his face, knowing that it will get tunned properly. This is all the same for other tuners that specialize in other ecu's; they always have their preferred brands. I have had two mates take their Pfc's to 4 different "well known" workshops to get their Pfc tuned, all came back below satisfactory. Both have now removed and sold the Pfc and purchased the Wolf; that's not to say the Wolf is better than the Pfc, but to say that the other w/shops could not produce a satisfactory tune using the Pfc.

Depends on your interpritation of "faster" Do you "live 400m at a time", or do you actually drive the car A fast car (in MY opinion) is not judged by straight line performance or RWKW, it's the complete package. Handling and braking will make a car faster than one with just a turbo slapped on making twice the power. It will also be much more enjoyable to drive than a body rolling monster Next would be (for a good all round package) - ECU and tune ($1500-$2200) - Clutch ($900) - Coil-overs ($1200-$1800) - Slotted rotors, decent pads, TOP NOTCH brake fluid ($700) - Fuel pump, injectors, turbo ($4000) - Whiteline handling pack (front/rear sway bars, adjustable bushes, etc), Pineapples, etc.($1000) NOTE: Prices are pure GUESSTIMATES, and WILL vary alot

Take it to a dyno tuner to get it 100% checked out. Now that you have sealed the air leak, the wastegate will be set toooo high. Hopefully the turbo has not been damaged due the that massive hole in the hose, the poor thing would have been spinning off it's nuts to keep boost . Sounds like the previous owner had no idea, get the whole driveline/tune checked, by a professional, ASAP! And fit an alloy heat shield round that gate!

You'll also need a better fuel pump and clutch. The w/shop sounds like they know their stuff and are reasonably priced. Don't for a second think that "anything under 300rwkw, is going to keep your engine safe". The only thing that keeps the engine safe is your right foot and how often you mash it. You are going to be making twice the factory output, so now you're playing a game of Russian Roulette; some engines are built (from factory) stronger than the norm, others a little weaker; that's why all manufacturer's have "tolerances" with all parts, it's how the combination of these tolerances come together, that dictates the strength of a std engine. 300rwkw is a loose guide: i have seen 'lines thrashed to death with power under 200rwkw. My car was making 269rwkw, when a piston decided to develop 4 hairline cracks, whilst circuit racing at Calder Park, but i had already factored/budgeted for an engine failure as i knew it was only a matter of time, due to the stresses placed on an engine whilst racing. If your mechanic is stating 270rwkw at 18psi, how much psi will require you to get over 300rwkw? Using pump fuel (98-100ron) i wouldn't go over 20psi, even on a built engine, and you wont make an extra 30rwkw with 2psi more boost. On a std engine 18psi would be my absolute limit, unless you have budgeted for a rebuild. It may be worth going slightly bigger turbo, to make your desired power figure more easily (ie: using less boost) BUT: I wonder where you plucked 300rwkw from. Is it just because it's a nice rounded figure, and you'd like "bragging rights"? Have you driven a 300rwkw car? Even at 250rwkw a 'line can be pretty tail happy.

So what CHARITY are you donating the money to? Choose you words wisely, because a club is NOT a CHARITY!!!

That sucks big time. Glad to hear you are both OK

I have to agree with R32Dreamer and could validate his concerns, as i too have seen the car. I didn't take action as the Police would require proof before they could do anything about it. Something is definitely not right with the car and Taso84's story. R32Dreamer: If you knew the car may have been stolen, why buy the engine? Surely if it has been stolen, you'll need to give the engine to the police . Have you done a check with VICroads or RAWS using the engine number on the block?

As usual some uninformed "know-it-all" has to put in his 2c worth, but runs when asked to explain Keep your bullshit to yourself

Agreed

Very keen, are you willing to freight to Melb, 3042? If so; can you find out the freight cost? Thanks Alan

What do you need tapped?

Malcolm and i may need to drop out, will confirm next week Sump arrived and needs to be sent back; so another 1-2 weeks before engine is fully assembled, leaving only two weeks for installation, fabrication, light tune, bedding in, retune, suspension work/alignment, etc.

Nice Kris YOU NOT GETTING YOUR OLD PLATES BACK

Why is that? I did it to my GReddy plumb back and had no issues, does the std unit work differently?

Entry forms filled and paid for Malcolm Zammit. He will be driving my car. Was done a few hrs ago; Damn IPS SERVER faults

Nice bud and welcome! Unless you like the induction/sucking noise of the pod i would bother till you're making over 230rwkw. The std airbox, with a good filter will be more than ample. With your idle best to start with the basics. Change plugs, gap to 0.8mm. Maybe even pour a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank, the next time you fill up. Does it have an aftermarket BOV?

Congrates to you both, glad to read both baby and mum are fine.