Al

Bad luck buddy All the best for the next one.

A GT-SS on a rb25det is too small. The smallest i'd go would be a GT2530, but you'd only get about 210-220rwkw. Responsive as all hell though Just to let ppl know: Extensive head porting will introduce a little more lag into the system (about 400rpm)

A cap is never meant to act like a battery. You use a cap because it has a quicker charge and discharge rate than any battery on the market. When the sub is working hard, the amp draws alot of power, in pulses, the cap just provides a "filter" of constant power. The CCA rating on a battery has almost no baring on it's ability to discharge current. If you are going to get another battery, i recommend getting a quality one, something like Optima or Odessy. Arbess' point should also be considered, as it is very valid. Depending on how big your system is, you may need a bigger alternator, but just note that bigger alternators start charging higher in the rpm range. eg: Std alternators may start charging at 1000rpm, but an upsized alternator may need 2000rpm to start charging. Thus in extended traffic you actually get a flat battery, even with your stereo off (happened to my mate). Just to let you know: I am not an audio installer (but did get paid a few times to do it for other people), but i am an Electronic Technician.

ECU and Injectors are a MUST to get full potential out of the turbo/engine. The GT-RS kit is made to be a straight bolt on. In the Jap instructions you'll see that it would still bolt on to the std airbox, smic, and ext manifold . At a later stage (if you want more power) i also recommend fitting the Tomei Poncams; these sticks work great with the turbo. Below are a couple of my graphs, but i have the Poncams and extensive head porting (neither are needed, but do produce more power). Ignore the red line, in the graph, as the graph was done as a comparison between two different exhaust systems (red was my previous sys). The blue line was my final tune on 18psi.

I'm keen; IF my car is ready. At this stage it doesn't look so good , block is still at the machinist.

- You have to become a member $70(for the first year; $50/yr after that) (click here) - Also sign up for CAMS($85/yr) or AASA($45/yr); CAMS allows you to also do track days at Phillip Island, Sandown, Winton and Calder Park . You can sign up for these at DECA on the day. - Have a helmet (for the back track events) - Install a $30 fire extinguisher (maybe, may have just come in) - AND come with a fun attitude to enjoy the day and night activities

Hey Dave, DECA is actually the name of the facility. SAU VIC hires DECA (Shepparton) to run a motokhana/short track day. We just call it DECA for short. The motokhana part is held on a huge skip pan (imagine a huge parking lot, without poles, tress, trolleys, etc), witches hats mark out the course and you have to steer your car through the course in the quickest time possible. It starts off as a huge course (one car at a time), then there is a head to head course, where the pan is divided into two and identical courses marked out and two cars go for it at the same time. There is also a short back track course, which is pretty self explanatory. Youtube-DECA Feb 07

So that $3500 includes the purchase or the NEO head, rb30 block, prepping, machining, blueprinting, bearings, gaskets, labour, etc? If so can you please provide the cost of each component listed above. Here, i'll start it for you: rb30 block - $100 Forgies - $800-$1200 Crank Collar - $180 Neo head - $1000 (not sure but doubt they are cheaper than this) Prep/machining - $1200 Cams - $400 Total so far: $3700 without labour, porting, bearings, pump, gaskets, etc. I have built none, but my rb30det build is way more than that; i guess you get what you pay for

Must be a pretty shit build.

I believe so Wayne. It's just a $20-$30 extinguisher from Kmart/Target; make sure it has a metal bracket.

I was going to recommend you do an hour driving with your instructor, this would help release the stress, but it has already passed, so how did ya go? I did this myself, and i would have failed the test 3 times, i too was nervous, but after that hour i was ready and alot calmer, when it was time to do the test. Passed with a 98 .

Sounds like your speed cut is working properly. As stated before, the speedo is highly inaccurate at that speed, so once the car is actually at 180km/h, the cut is activated and keeps the speed between 170-180. I can't imagine it to be violent as you are driving at a great speed. The car would still feel strong and feel like it will go faster, because basically it will, if the speed cut was disabled.

Because i know what you were talking about

Oh now i see where that is going: so i'll address it here, before people talk shit behind closed doors, especially when they don't know the true facts. Yes Vic had an accident (write-off) in a customer's car, WHILE THE CUSTOMER WAS IN THE PASSENGER SEAT. Car had been just fitted with a new turbo set-up and the customer asked Vic to take him for a test drive. Due to the customer's "home made" suspension mods, the car was just about on it's bump-stops. They went for a test drive and the car hit a sever bump/ditch in the road (which VICroads decided to resurface after the accident), the lack of suspension travel threw the car sideways, at the same time a truck decided to pull out from a side street. To avoid the truck Vic steered away and attempted to miss a pole, but physics is a bitch; the pole was lined up directly for the passenger door, so Vic released the brake and planted the accelerator, resulting in the pole hitting the car behind the B-pillar. Needless to say cops, ambos, etc. where at the scene. Upon police inspection Vic was not charged at all with any offenses. The skid marks drew a picture that resulted in the cops acknowledging that Vic's actions had saved his passenger (owner) from more sever injuries. (I am sure Ash you know what happens when you hit a pole and Police determine that your driving was the main contributing factor ) Furthermore, the car was covered under insurance. The fact that the owner was a blinded selfish prick and wanted more compensation from Vic was where the bitterness came; an attempted law suit was quickly withdrawn. This is honestly the only accident that i know of committed my EAS. So i ask you Ash, how many w/shops have you blown the trumpet for over the past 7yrs, and how many of them ended up being shit, burnt customers and have since faded away into the wind. I can personally think of 3, each time you were claiming they were the greatest, only to jump ship later down the track. If anyone wants to discuss this or any other issues further i am happy to reply to PM's. I am also happy to learn something if someone knows something i don't know.

Just a quick question.... Is this thread about "our" best times OR "our car's" best time. I am sure that if i gave my keys to a mate, they'll stand a good chance of getting a better 1/4 mile time than me, in my own car, as i can't drag for shit.

Didn't take long hey Jason? So let me understand what you wrote: - "sum guy in a beemer who was behind me booted past me" - "i droped it from 5th to 3rd" - "cops chased me not him" - "impounded on 3rd of july for 'street racing'" So why did you drop it down to 3rd again? What pedal did you press after the gear down; the accelerator or brake? Sorry to say mate, cops are not stupid (and neither are we), and you were clearly way over 60, so their actions are 100% justified. Also if they decide to throw everything at you; you'll get fined for power to weight and loose another 3 demerit points. These 3 points, attached to the 3 for speeding, will give you an additional 3 months suspension, on top of what you'll get for speeding/racing offense.

Has your caster setting remained the same?

Would you like to explain?

Agreed. That's why i have taken my car to EAS for the last 6yrs. There has been alot of hype about other w/shops, on these forums, over the last 5yrs and most have gone into the wind. I have stuck with Vic and George due to their attention and care. Their fabrication work is also top notch.

I hope you are sponsored by those manufacturers........... otherwise WHY????????? The blue and grey strip looks good

You have full boost by 3500rpm Same turbo on a rb2530 is going to be a lot of tyre shredding fun I was told full boost (20psi) by 3400rpm, but it may be even earlier. Any dyno graphs?

Kev, if i was to make payment to secure a spot, is it refundable if my car doesn't look like being ready? I am definetly keen on this, but it all depends on my car being back on the road. It was penciled it to be completed at the end of this month, but know looks like the end of August, but you know how much "fun" it is when doing a rebuild .

Why would you refer to the rb25/30 as a lag monster? Not sure what you're trying to ask.

polished inside Polished internal runners cause fuel to form droplets which can result in idling issues. It is best to leave the inside of runners rough to prevent this from happening.

Those rims look ace