Al

About 2.5hrs

I am assuming dan_the_man has a R33 facia; Yes it will fit both a S1 and S2. You may need to splice into the 12V wire as you loom may not have the factory plug.

It is a DIY thing, especially if you dislike the aqua illumination from the factory option. You will find my tutorial HERE Any questions do not hesitate to ask.

What suburb you live in?

Seen it at the Melbourne F1 GP, was parked next to my car, didn't like the colour, neither did alot of other people. Looks really nice in that photo, but in person it looks very diferrent.

If you intend to use the car on the track, i personally would not use drilled rotors, as they are prone to cracking when they get really hot. Early model 32gtr calipers are the same as 33gtst. The later model 32gtr had Brembos, which are much better. So if the calipers have BREMBO, across the face, then fit them. Slotted rotors are the best option

- fmic (quality matters) - Std turbo @ 12psi (be prepared to pay for hi-flow, just incase the turbo fails, due to the ceramic exhaust wheel flying off. Mine lasted at least 2yrs and i sold it after i took it off, others have lasted 1hour) - ECU = Many options and it all depends on who you want to work on your car. - I have heard good thing about Ray (and his team) at RE Customs. He likes to tune Power FC's - I have seen great work from Robert @ Sabbadin. He is great with facbrication and modification, knows his RB's well and is an awesome tunner on Wolf and PowerFC ecu's. He is very fussy about his work and take pride in the finished result. - Personally i use a Wolf 3D V4, on my 33, and it is great. The Wolf 3D V500 shits all over the Pfc, Microtech and Haltech, it is MAP or MAF compatable, and is compairable to the MOTEC ecu's. - Upgraded fuel pump is also recommended. - DEFINATELY UPGRADE SUSPENSION. The Bilsteins mentioned above are great for street use, are very comfortable and handle well even on the track. I personally am about to use TEIN Super Street, they have 32 damper adjustments to change the stiffness of the shock, from soft (for hwy/street), to hard (for track use). If you intend to occationally go through the twisties, etc, then suspension is one of the most important items, EVEN B4 YOU BUY THE ECU! - BRAKES: No need to go too serious hear. A pair of slotted rotors for the front (eg:DBA4000), quality pads and most important BRAKE FLUID (eg:Motul SBF600). Once again when you go through the twisties, you want to make sure you brakes don't get too hot and fade, ending you day short. My recommended order of modifications: - Exhaust - High quality air filter in standard air box (good to about 220rwkw) - FMIC - Coilovers - Whiteline Handling Pack; with additonal front camber adj bushes and rear sub-frame pinapples. - Brakes; slotted rotors, performance pads and performance fluid - ECU - Boost controller - Braided brake lines (Make sure they are ADR approved) If you have any further question, etc, don't hesitate to drop me a PM Good Luck and safe driving

All the best buddy!!

Looks good Nick It's all about power-to-weight, so a c/f bonnet is a definate gain. Hope you intend to fit bonnet pins

Have edited my posts As i stated i wasn't sure as i have not yet adjusted the height of my own suspension; will be fitting new Teins and adjusting heights in the next few weeks

Sold and delivered Thanks

To summerise: - Make sure car is on level/flat ground. - Measure height from centre of wheel to arch - Ideal height for handling is: 350mm @ front, 340mm @ rear - 1mm adj on coil = 1mm adj in height. - After each adjustment go for a drive, swerving from side to side, to try and seattle the shocks b4 re-measuring. - After a few days, re-check the height as the coil-overs would have deffinately settled

I have been told: 1mm adj on coil = 1mm adj in height.

Running a little lean there Paul?

2000 V4 Galant (poor man's EVO)

Yep............... Thanks buddy They have been powder coated a charcol colour.

I would personally go charcol, but i am very biased . I dislike white rims, and they are an absolute arse to keep clean. Plus white with polished dish will not look good on a burgandy car . PS: My car is not the factory colour (candy red).

agreed

I disagree, they look like Xenons to me, but i too can be wrong. Remove Xenon b4 taking car to compliance, then refit them after compliance, as they are a much better headlight.

rb20 + cams = less power rb25 + cams = more power rb25 + cams + extended abuse = 5cyl

This sounds like knock. Do you have a hand controller?

Are you saying that more than 1 warning light turned on?

Have you checked you knock levels on the pfc?

Welcome Steve, Hope to meet up with you on Saturday. All the best

Thanks to all, especial Mav for waxing the car . Had a top weekend, just relaxing and drinking. Some really funny pics, top job Paul and Sarah. Bring on next year!!