tai_180sx

link to clutch kit http://www.xtremeclutch.com.au/page.asp?pa...mp;productid=14 1600kg clamp load and 5.5kg chromeoly flywheel

I have a rebuilt RB30 bottom end with RB25det head fitted. Engine package includes Greddy style intake manifold, modified to fit 90mm Throttle body (TB included) stainless steel turbo manifold Large turbo (not sure of brand or model but it is big) Adjustable cam gears New water pump Top feed 750cc injectors or Side feed 550cc injectors optional extras for $400 per set. Extreeme "drift" clutch kit with lightweight flywheel and extra heavy duty pressure plate - $800 (brand new, paid $1200) engine is fitted with VCT cam and it needs to be replaced with non VCT cam intake manifold is missing the water and idle control fittings $1500 + freight

sorry top feed.

i reckon you could get it to work quite easily, but i highly doubt it would just bolt into the standard loom and if it did i doubt it would run well.

I have a red R31 skyline silouhette for sale. Car is located in Queanbeyan which is on the ACT border. Runs out of rego on the 10th Sep 2009, has a mini spool fitted (can supply a H-LSD that will bolt in for $400), has 1 white rear door and needs a new manual gear boot. Otherwise the car is in pretty good condition, the red paint isn't the best though. I'm after $500 I also have the car advertised on Ebay so it may sell on there first. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...:MESELX:IT#shId

I have an RB25det air flow meter and standard ECU that were for my RB25/30 conversion but are no longer needed. $100 each.

6x Brand new injectors. I bought them for my RB25/30 but I no longer need them. They are siemens injectors.

oh yeah, I've connected pin 43 to the starter signal in the footwell of the S13.

yeah everything has power that is meant to have power. both relays work fine. It seems to be that the error 21 was happening because the AUX power to the ECU in the standard CA18 loom was not powerful enough, so i've put in a relay and a thicker wire directly to the battery so there is now no more errors on the ECU, but the car still won't start...... I've tried heaps and can't seem to work it out.

Hey guys, I have an RB20 that i've put in an S13 and i can't get it started. Basically the ECU is showing a fault on the ignition signal. Can anyone tell me what might be wrong? From my understanding there are 2 main power wires going into the ECU and one extra power wire that only has power when the key is ON. All three of these work perfectly. I have the fuel pump running and the coil packs and injectors seem to be getting power, but I'm not actually getting any spark from the coil packs. Basically at the coil packs there is a power wire, and earth and a switching wire, the switching wire isn't switching and therefore i'm not getting any spark. I would have thought that the ignition signal would come from the power wire that gives power to the ECU when the key is ON. Any ideas as to why it won't work?

http://www.nashin.com.tw/intro.html Front set of calipers and 2 piece slotted rotors with alloy hat, $2500 These are huge, you basically have the choice of 335, 355 380 and 400mm rotors. Oh and i also have a guy that is looking to buy R34 GTR rotors and calipers. If you interested Pm the price your after and i'll let him know.

I am after an R33 rb25 gearbox bell housing. I've been told that the R32 GTR bellhousing is the same.

i would imagine so... what other option is there? I bought it brand new and then sold my rb25.

I have a brand new greddy style intake plenum. Located in ACT - $350 Will freight at buyers cost.

sorry guys, sold.

As the topic states i need a non VCT cam for an RB25det, if anyone has upgraded cams or is going to upgrade their cams in an RB25 any time soon please let me know. I only need the intake cam. I also need a crank angle sensor and the big bracket that holds the crank angle sensor on the exhaust cam gear... but they aren't exactly parts that get upgraded so maybe if anyone is wrecking an rb25 motor?

Hey guys, I have an R31 series 1 skyline. This car is at the moment fully registered with 12 months rego, there is not a problem with it, but i have come across a series 1 silouhette that i want to transfer the motor (RB30det) into. So in other words i have a complete skyline minus the engine/gearbox... I do have a complete RB30 single cam head/inlet and exhaust manifolds. everything else is in perfect condition as it has only just passed a full blue slip rego inspection. I am located in Queanbeyan/Canberra. Obviously there are way too many parts to list, so post up or pm me an offer on any parts. if need be i am pulling the engine out of the silouhette (RB30 auto) and can part that out too, but it won't be available for a few weeks.

if he wants the covers, i'm after an inlet cam as long as its non VCT. pm me with a price if your willing to seperate.

I drilled and tapped a thread and put a grub screw in there. fitted perfectly and should work really well.

yes it was the gates belt designed for the RB30det conversion. i didn't think about tapping a thread in the oil hole, thats a good option. with the cam journal oil feed... this is from the post you just mentioned.. going by this, i would say that really i don't need to feed oil to the VVL... but thats only if by putting on the aftermarket cam gears i will lose the VVL anyway..

I have an RB25det head that i am in the process of putting on the RB30. now the head that i bought didn't come with cam gears so i am purchasing aftermarket adjustable cam gears for both the inlet and exahust. From my understanding this will get rid of the VVL on the inlet cam, right? well if this is true then there would be no point in me drilling and tapping a new oil line into the head to run the VVL??? now the second question is, with welding up the oil hole in the RB25det head.... is it really necessary to actually weld up the hole and destroy the head? can you just pick up some thin copper shim and place in over the hole and bolt the head down over it? Now before you say too much, i know this sounds dodgy... very dodgy, but i am using a multi layer metal head gasket that i can easily slide the shim inside it and secondly where the oil hole is (right at the front of the motor, and right next to a head bolt) i'm sure that it will sit down fine and not create any problems for the rest of the motor.. can anyone confirm if they have done this before, is it even possible? honest opinions would be appreciated. now my last question is in regards to the timing belt. I have bought a Gates performance timing belt for the RB30det conversion and after sitting the head/cam gears/balancer/belt and tensioner on, it all seems to fit really well with the tension in the standard position... Is there a specific reason why all the articles say that you have to move the tensioner and put in an extra idler pulley? i don't plan on running the covers over the cam gears either..

i'm after a complete rb 20 sump

on my SR i never had any of my idle control motors or anything running... all it means is that when the engine is cold, it doesn't idle higher... no big deal. the computer still runs the cold start through running more fuel into the motor.. once the idle motor is gone the way you adjust the idle is through a little screw in the throttle body, basically it'll adjust the throttle body flap open a tiny little bit, its pretty basic but it works. realistically you'd be better off trying to keep the idle control motor as it makes everythign easier in the long run, but if you don't have the room to run it or you are making your own inlet manifold, then there is not a real need to keep it.

i want to get rid of this so $2000

still available, webber hasn't contacted me back.