Big Rizza

When my GTS-T was a daily driver, it had no stereo. After a little while you get used to it, and don't miss it. Just open up all the windows and enjoy the car. The car has a stereo now that it's a weekender, which is a bit backwards, but oh well. So yeah, if you get rid of it, you will get used to it.

1971 Skyline, rebuilt to GT-R specs using genuine GT-R components. I reckon she looks pretty hot, even if it is only a replica. It's almost R34 GTR money (wait a few weeks for the R34 to devalue another $20,000 or so and it will be!), but I reckon it's far cooler, far sexier, will hold it's value far better, get more admiration from the right people, less admiration from the wrong people and not attract too many coppers. Yeah, I want one! So, what would you take? This or an R34 GTR? http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=8490 Do you think it would still look this good in the Australian outback? It just looks so at home on those mountain roads! It'd also be nice to see a little more of the interior...

And here I thought that my problem was a unique one. Seems like I'm not the only one with boost gauge problems then! Mine also happens to be an Autometer - a really nice (and expensive) fluid filled one, too. And it was a birthday present. And if I get rid of it, the person who gave it to me will feel bad that they gave me a faulty gauge. Kinda pissed off that it's not working! I might borrow a 1" pressure gauge from work overnight and compare it to the Autometer gauge just to be sure before I conclude 100% that the gauge is at fault. Anyways, I don't feel like getting banned for slanderous comments about Autometer (if I get banned, I want it to be for something that I can afterwards say "it was worth it!" with a smug smile on my face!), so I'll say now that I have only ever heard good things about Autometer before today - we with faulty gauges are a minority, so any potential buyers should not take this threads experiences as reason not to purchase that brand. *hides from incoming ban* A mate of mine did 140km/h in his driveway by his speedo. His speedo was accurate. There miiiiight have been a sliiiiiight amount of wheel slip, though And he proved me wrong - I didn't think his car could do a 3rd gear burnout...

Didn't watch the video (don't have 20 minutes atm!), but if you like modified exotics, Heffner's Performance is a tuning company that does twin turbo kits for Vipers, GT's, Gallardo's, etc. and their website have some videos of the cars in action. http://www.heffnersperformance.com/videos.htm

So, the gauge is screwed then. Is there any way to fix it? Or does it need to be replaced? By the speedo, my mates Silvia could reach it's top speed in about 0.25 of a second - it took about 5 minutes of driving around with the speedo reading 0km/h before it miraculously sprung to life and showed the correct speed. If you happened to be doing 180km/h at the time, then the needle would swing from 0km/h to 180km/h in the blink of an eye!

Hey all, I have an aftermarket boost gauge installed in my car (I didn't do the install). The car is an R32 GTS-T running standard boost. Yet for some reason, the boost gauge shows boost at anywhere between 12 and 14 psi (I saw around 1 bar boost the other day). It's not spiking to that level - it's holding pretty steady to well over 6000rpm. When the car is turned off, the boost gauge reads anywhere between 0psi and 3psi, which seems a little strange, and tells me perhaps it's the gauge itself that's the problem, rather than the engine overboosting. The car pulls like a stocker, doesn't feel like it's running increased boost. Not only that, my dyno printout shows a boost curve is what would be expected from a standard car - completely at odds with what the gauge is telling me!

One of these things is not like the others, One of these things just doesn't belong, Can you tell which thing is not like the others By the time I finish my song? Did you guess which thing was not like the others? Did you guess which thing just doesn't belong?

There is another front bar variation. Left is the regular GTT, right is the factory NISMO aero kit option. Being a factory option, you could still call it stock. EDIT: Does anyone else find it amusing that the car without the NISMO kit has NISMO badges, and the car with the NISMO kit doesn't have NISMO badges?

That S2 front bar makes it look like it's trying to compete with Chaser's rather than Supra's - it looks like it's trying to be elegant rather than aggressive. Not in keeping with the skyline's character IMO.

As far as I know, the sedan has two red tail lights with a seperate rectangular indicator, whereas the coupe's have the indicators in the centre of the inner red tail light. (EDIT: A pic to show what I mean)

Yes. Yes it is.

You might get more results if you post in the Wanted to Buy section. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hp?showforum=13

My guess is he's a P-plater and living in state with vehicle restrictions in place. Hence no turbo skyline on P-plates. Either that or he doesn't want the increased running costs and insurance hassels that turbo's give, but I'd guess it's the former rather than the latter.

Specs for the R33 and R34. Interestingly, R33 and R34 make identical power, but R34 is 20kgs heavier. R32 and R33 weigh the same (suprisingly), but the R33 is 20hp more powerful. So that gives the R33 the best power to weight of the bunch. So you can scratch my eariler comment regarding the R32 GTS25 having "R33 power with R32 weight" since it's more like "R32 power with R33 weight" Oh, and R32 is the heaviest on fuel, with R34 being the lightest on fuel NISSAN SKYLINE GTS25 TYPE S Produced from 1993 (august) GENERAL Body type Coupe Drive FR Transmission 5 speed floor shift with OD Displacement, cc 2498 Frame E-ECR33 Price of new car, thousands yen (Tokyo area) 2698 (~$22400) EXTERIOR Exterior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 4640 x 1720 x 1340 Interior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 1820 x 1415 x 1090 Wheel base, mm 2720 Treads (F/R), mm 1480 / 1470 Ground clearance, mm 145 Curb vehicle weight, kg 1320 Seating capacity, persons 5 Doors number 2 Min.turning radius, m 5.2 Fuel tank capacity, l 65 ENGINE Displacement, cc 2498 Engine model RB25DE Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 200 ps (147.10 kw) / 6400 rpm Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 23.5 kg*m (230.46 N*m) / 4800 rpm Power density 6.6 Engine type Serial 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve Engine information Fuel system NISSAN EGI (ECCS) (electronic gasoline injection) Turbocharger No Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline LEV system (Low emission vehicle) No Compression ratio 10 Bore, mm 86 Stroke, mm 71.7 Final gear ratio Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 9.6 CHASSIS / TRANSMISSION Power steering Yes Tires size, front 205/60R15 91h Tires size rear 205/60R15 91h Braking system, front Ventilated disk Braking system, rear Disk Suspension system, front Independent suspension multiple link type Suspension system, rear Independent suspension multiple link type NISSAN SKYLINE 25GGT Produced from 1998 (may) GENERAL Body type Coupe Drive FR Transmission 5 speed manual Displacement, cc 2498 Frame GF-ER34 Price of new car, thousands yen (Tokyo area) 2470 (~$20500) EXTERIOR Exterior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 4580 x 1725 x 1340 Interior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 1780 x 1400 x 1105 Wheel base, mm 2665 Treads (F/R), mm 1480 / 1470 Ground clearance, mm 140 Curb vehicle weight, kg 1340 Gross vehicle weight, kg Seating capacity, persons 5 Doors number 2 Min.turning radius, m 5.1 Fuel tank capacity, l 65 ENGINE Displacement, cc 2498 Engine model RB25DE Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 200 ps (147.10 kw) / 6000 rpm Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 26.0 kg*m (254.97 N*m) / 4000 rpm Power density 6.7 Engine type Water cooling serial 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve Engine information NEO straight 6 LEV Fuel system NISSAN EGI (ECCS) (electronic gasoline injection) Turbocharger No Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline LEV system (Low emission vehicle) Yes Compression ratio 10 Bore, mm 86 Stroke, mm 71.7 Final gear ratio Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 9 CHASSIS / TRANSMISSION Power steering Yes Tires size, front 205/55r16 89v Tires size rear 205/55R16 89V Braking system, front Ventilated disk Braking system, rear Ventilated disk Suspension system, front Independent suspension multiple link type Suspension system, rear Independent suspension multiple link type

The last of the R32's came with the larger RB25DE engines. So R33 power in the lighter R32 body. That should leave plenty of spare $$$ to cover insurance, any repairs (hopefully none!), registration, plus any mods you want. That'd be my choice! NISSAN SKYLINE GTS25 TYPE S Produced from 1992 (november) GENERAL Body type Coupe Drive FR Transmission 5 speed floor shift with OD Displacement, cc 2498 Frame KECR32RGFE Price of new car, thousands yen (Tokyo area) 2468 (~$20500) EXTERIOR Exterior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 4530 x 1695 x 1325 Interior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 1805 x 1400 x 1090 Wheel base, mm 2615 Treads (F/R), mm 1460 / 1460 Ground clearance, mm 145 Curb vehicle weight, kg 1320 Seating capacity, persons 5 Doors number 2 Min.turning radius, m 5.2 Fuel tank capacity, l 60 ENGINE Displacement, cc 2498 Engine model RB25DE Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 180 ps (132.39 kw) / 6000 rpm Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 23.0 kg*m (225.55 N*m) / 5200 rpm Power density 7.33 Engine type Serial 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve Engine information Fuel system NISSAN EGI (ECCS) (electronic gasoline injection) Turbocharger No Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline LEV system (Low emission vehicle) No Compression ratio 10 Bore, mm 86 Stroke, mm 71.7 Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 10.5 CHASSIS / TRANSMISSION Power steering Yes Tires size, front 205/60R15 91h Tires size rear 205/60R15 91h Braking system, front Ventilated disk Braking system, rear Ventilated disk Suspension system, front Independent suspension multiple link type Suspension system, rear Independent suspension multiple link type

"How do we prove it works? They haven't invented the machine yet to prove it works," Peter Brock, regarding the "Energy Polarizer," said to magnetically align the cars molecules to improve engine performance and vehicle handling.

My opinion is that electric superchargers are a complete waste of time. Most of them are too small to give any measurable boost pressure (we're talking 1psi at the most), and in fact just act to strangle the engine at anything above idle engine speeds. In fact the whole concept is a complete waste of time. Why? Well, have a think about it for a second. You are taking electric energy, converting it to kinetic energy (rotating fans), then converting it into another form of kinetic energy (air pressure/velocity). This process is very inefficient, and the amount of energy reaching the engine as air pressure is probably only 15% of the electrical energy used in the first place. The energy lost as heat (both at the electric motor and in the intake air), so you get increased air temperatures leading into the engine. You then need to add more fuel to burn the extra air to prevent the engine from leaning out, meaning more fuel consumption. The blower itself would likely not be linear with engine speed, and probably result in a loss of throttle response. My opinion is why not use your electric motor to DIRECTLY DRIVE THE CRANKSHAFT. Yes, it requires more modification, and won't sell for $20 on Ebay, but it is far more energy efficient (less energy losses), doesn't increase intake temp, potentially IMPROVES throttle response (as the electric motor can give almost instantaneous response to changes in throttle), and potentially IMPROVES fuel consumption. All you need is regenerative braking and you'd have a full blown high performance hybrid. So yeah, in answer to your question, they are a waste of dollars, yes.

Are you expecting to have the CO2 flowing through this outer tube all the time? If yes, then you will need a lot of CO2, which may become expensive. If not, once the CO2 heats up it will no longer cool the intercooler pipework, and instead act as an insulator between the intercooler piping and the cool air outside, and lower the cooling efficiency of the intercooler. I still stand by my suggestion of a water spray system if you're after a DIY design project!

Also thinking out loud... I doubt CO2 injection would add more gas and raise the pressure because the inlet piping it is open to atmosphere at one end (hence pressure won't build up), so it's going to displace the oxygen and slow the incoming air through the intake prior to the injection point. Compression ratio is mechanical, so isn't effected by the composition of incoming gas. But the air density will have positive affects the volumetric efficiency i.e. more gas gets into the cylinder per stroke. Getting the right amount of CO2 injected would be pretty tough without extensive testing IMO. Too little CO2 and there be negligible effects. Too much CO2 and there won't be enough air and you would lose power as the engine can't burn enough fuel. Using the factory airflow meter and a multimeter might give you some assistance during the testing phase, and allow you to see how much CO2 flow you can give before incoming air is affected, but still, I seriously doubt that finding a middle ground where enough CO2 is injected to cool the air, but not so much that the air is displaced, will be a simple task able to be undertaken by an undergraduate in his spare time, and even if that middle ground is found, I beleive any gains will be negligible. How about just a simple water spray install? Water is cheaper and easier to deal with than CO2 cylinders, and it won't kill you if you forget to turn off the bottle in a small enclosed garage. Plus, you get the added benefit of not forming carbonic acid whenever you use your CO2 intercooler spray in the rain! It gives you some design experience (what water pump to use? what nozzle? where to install? where should the spray be directed? how long should the spray stay on for?), plus some basic electronics (where will you obtain a power source? how will you control the duration of each spray? how will you activate the spray?) Once you've got that sussed, you can get into some control systems (something undergraduate mechanical engineers tend not to appreciate enough in my opinion!). This way, you can have the water spray come on automatically under certain conditions, and you just need to focus on driving. Working out what inputs you would use would be an interesting design exercise. Would you use a simple temperature switch so that it turns on when hot, then off again when it's cooled? Maybe a boost switch, so it sprays whenever the car is on boost? Maybe you could link it to the boost control solenoid (depending on your vehicle type) such that it comes on automatically when boost is vented (usually meaning full boost has been reached). Problem is, not all cars have such a boost control system as standard. Maybe an RPM switch, such that it comes on over 3000rpm? Maybe link it to the air flow meter output, so that it comes on a high airflow? Maybe injector duty cycle, so it comes on when the engine is under load? Most of these signals can be obtained from sensors already in your car from the factory, all you need is a simple voltage switch and a multimeter. Or if you want to keep it REALLY simple, just stick a switch under the accelerator pedal so it comes on automatically at full throttle! Sounds like an awesome project... I might have to undertake it myself!

Haha, how is that being MORE speciffic? EFI + reliable = 75% of all vehicles made in the last 15 years. Although you did say "performance vehicles" in your first post, so that narrows it down a little. Still a pretty broad scope though! There are obviously plenty of modern EFI jap cars available in your price range - Eunos Cosmo, Mazda RX-7 FC, Mazda MX-5, Mitsubishi FTO, Mitsubishi GTO, Mitsubishi Galant VR4, Subaru Liberty RS, Subaru WRX, Subaru Forester GT, Toyota MR2, Toyota Soarer, Toyota Supra SZ, Toyota Aristo, Toyota Chaser, Nissan Silvia, Nissan Stagea, Nissan Skyline, Nissan 300ZX, Nissan Pulsar GTiR just to name a few. Doesn't have to be a jap car obviously... could get a Euro hot hatch, like a Renault Sport Clio, Peugeot 205 GTi, Astra SRi, or an older VW Golf GTi. Might even be able to stretch out for a Astra Turbo or similar. Speaking of Holdens, an Aussie muscle car like an SS Commodore or XR Falcon, or even a Magna VRX might suit. And I guess a luxury car with a big V8 engine, like a BMW 540i or Lexus LS400, could also be considered to be a performance car, so you can look down that path also. Going the extreme end of that path, you could go an old BMW 750i V12 - should be reliable, but if something goes bang the $$$ might be a little excessive. Some older Euro sports cars are becoming more affordable, such as a Porsche 928 or 944, although I'm not sure how well a 20 year old Porsche is going to fare in the reliability department... So yeah, a broad scope indeed! As far as GTR's, a cheap one can be had in your price range, although generally those with cheap purchase prices need large $$$ spent on maintenance up front to be reliable in the long term, probably making the more expensive examples on sale cheaper in the long run.

I wouldn't get too worried - there have been some fantastic low reving high torque turbo engines of late. Mazda MPS, Porsche 911 turbo, Ford F6 Typhoon, BMW 335i, etc. Plus there have been some fantastic big V8s, such as the 6.1 litre HEMI, 7.0 litre LS7 and 6.3 litre AMG engines. Whatever Nissan choose to do, Im sure the results will be spectacular!

The December 2006 issue of Motor has an article on the upcoming GTR. Highlights (and lowlights) of the article: "We've previously mentioned the GT-Rs twin-turbo V6, but we can now tell you the new Godzilla will have a specially-built 3.8 litre (3789cc) V6 with twin turbos tuned by Cosworth, pumping out more than 357kw. "Nissan's R&D division - in cahoots with Cosworth - have tuned the V6 to come on boost as low as 2000rpm, staying hot all the way to a 6000rpm redline. The mark is 1000rpm less than previous GT-R straight sixes, suggesting that the new engine will focus more on torque than power, with the car's acceleration expected to behave more like a big-block V8" "Nissan is also working on a six or seven speed (still undecided) DSG style transmission... Manual will not be offered" "Details on the AWD system are still sketchy... the system is totally new, and will not employ a centre differential" "The Super-HICAS 4WS is also expected to be replaced" "...one source reveals the new engine and 4WD system... may make the GT-R tip the scales at around 1800kgs" "...by the time it hits Australian floors in early 2008, the price will have risen to more than $150,000" This issue also has a few paragraphs on the upcoming Lexus LF-A Hybrid supercar and Audi R8, plus drives of the twin turbo BMW 335i, Audi S3 and Alfa 8C Spyder to name a few. It also details a rumour that Ferrari are developing an all-wheel-drive system (suitable for both front and mid engined cars) that will launch as an option on the Ferrari F430 replacement (possibly called the F470). But it's the GTR you all care about (EDIT: Added the Motor quote about the GTR weighing a wopping 1800kgs...)

So... what's the use of the NT now? What's it for?

There seems to be a large gap between posts... 21 Jul 2004, 01:21 PM to 30 Oct 2006, 09:54 AM. Not sure all this V8 talk is still relevant.

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