Kaido_RR

thanks i wasn't sure as they look very similar to the apexi boost gauge senders i had. now just need to work out how to install them and off for a tune

i only remove the front stone guards, or else they would be hitting my disc :S anyway received my pfc d-jetro in the mail today however im unsure if the sensors send with it are the map ones (as they look nothing like the normal ones i have seen other on the net)

just sad your lover boy didn't finish the race

Just trying to work out if my stock boost solenoid in my gtr is dead ? Car came with a bleed value, and today i finally got around to installing a boost gauge anyways was running 0.5bar, so i went and turn the bleed value 4 full circles clockwise and jump back in, and the boost was still running 0.5bar? Could this be due to the std solenoid being dead and needed to be remove and just have the bleed value connected to the actuators? Cheers

would buy this in a second if they were gtr offset brand new you can get them for around 1.2k + shipping from the US so i say with tyres anywhere between $800-$1200

i was just in the same position myself this week. I found it interested that everyone recommend the pipe have a flex joint but alot of j brands dont use it (for example mines ) anyways i ended up going the HKS one because its one of the biggest available (70 to 85 mines is) They are like 45,000yen brand new

thanks dj

7hp to be exact back to back dyno test with Top Secret R34: decat vs apexi cat; only 7hp different between the two

Ok Just some question regarding the brakes Should i remove the stone guards? i have already remove a section as it was hitting the dog bone. Will it help with cooling or is it not worth it? And does anyone know if rear brake lines are the same for the gtr and the r33 gtst?

Finally got around to working on the gtr today. Std Gtr brakes off! AP Racing Brakes on! Now just need to replace the disc and pads on the rear and install the braided brake lines and the brakes are done! Will be using Shell Racing Fluid again

Hey, Can anyone recommend me a place (NOR) that can replace broken studs on brake dog bones Cheers

photo of the section of the hub

Hi, i after some urgent help, i have a set of AP Racing CP5555 Calipers (dog bones + disc etc) the dog bones are to suit r33 gts-t as they were on my old race car, now im trying to put them on my new race car which is a r32 gtr, Will they fit? So far i have got the r32 gtr caliper off (non brembo) and it looks like the dog bone hit part of the hub (will get photo asap) however i could easily grind it off what i am worry about will the caliper line up with the disc? Also are R33 gts-t brake lines the same as a r32 brake lines (caliper lines not engine bay lines)

Just an update return home from my one week holiday to find my nice new arc filters had come also waiting on my hks piping kit, pfc dejtro and hks racing front pipe. Need to find myself a good ebc dobt really like the bleed value, tossing up between the hks evc or blitz id3. The hks is more pricey but has a boost scarmble on a trigger function.

each to their own, i will be running IK gear because i have used it on my previous track car and it work and work well. Same goes for spring rate, everyone keeps telling me 10/10 is too hard but then again it worked for my previous track car Anyways should be interesting none the less.

price was just quote of the Ik site, im sure i can get them cheaper

agree the stuff isn't cheap FRONT UPPER LINK (RIGID) Price 35,000 Yen ROLL CENTER ADJUSTER PILLOW LOWER ARM (KIT) PAT. Price 85,000 Yen TIEROD END PAT. Price 35,000 Yen TENSION ROD (PILLOW) Price 33,000 Yen ADJUSTER REAR LOWER ARM PAT. Price 79,000 Yen TRACTION ADJUSTER ROD Price 20,000 Yen REAR KNUCLE PILLOW BUSH(HI-CAS NOT AVAILABLE) Price 43,000 Yen REAR CAMBER ADJUSTER UPPER ARM Price 31,000 Yen Total: 361000yen aka $5000

Thanks good to get some info from someone who has racing background with there gtr Cage was the first thing on my list however, once my dad jump into the car he was like im going to drive this on the street so kind of put a end to the full cage idea. however i might be able to sneak a half cage in there lol. Also on the lsd side, i see nismo make a new carbon plate lsd, is it worth the money over a normal nismo lsd?

Reason i pick defi, is i want the defi 3 din (water, oil temp and oil pressure) and just a defi racer boost gauge, which should be around $600-$800 depends if i buy brand new or not so not bad price really. Good point, forgot to ask that myself as i was also thinking about running the mines baffles in the head until i can get the sump off and put the tomei baffle in there. Keep us update on your car, interested to see another similar gtr and how it goes Oh and i see your a perth boy too might see you at the track

I know gav ran 54s in his 2.8L 32 and last track day i remember seeing a orange 32 which was very fast no idea lap times. agree the track is boring, long track is ok but its nothing to technical

EPIC PAGE! Thanks everyone! lots of information Like i said aim is 500hp @ the engine so anywhere between 300-400hp at the wheels and i will be happy. BeerBaron you pretty much read my mine when it came to suspension setup: RA are my top coilovers because i have run them in my gts-t and LOVE them, just adjusting the damper and rebound on the track made huge difference to my lap time and how stable the car was. All Arms will be replace my I.K gear, Swaybars its between the cusco and ARC, i think ARC are about $250-$300 more but i might just bite the bullet and get them. Clutch will be nismo twin plate, again ran that in my r33 and was more than happy with how it looked after i took it out (3years of abuse and looked brand new) Defi are the go for gauges. already got the rims (17x9.5 +19) just need some RE55 for them now. Brakes will be replaced with my AP gear for the front. ATM the car is way to laggy with the N1 turbos and stock ecu, so i play to get the pfc in, finish the exhaust and tune it and hopefully that will improve the lag. The power mods will come at the end of the year were i will take the engine out, do the sump, oil pump, water pump, timing belt etc at that time i plan to smash in some cams and cam gears and new turbos HKS GT-SS. exciting months ahead finger cross i can get my AP brakes on soon, so i can hit the track next month just to get a feel for the car and see how far off it is to my gts-t time wise. AGAIN THANKYOU EVERYONE your help has been awesome save me doing things backwards and wasting time and money

Hmm are you sure it wasn't just bouncing off the limiter? What ecu are you running? I would be looking at finding out WHY your engine failed before spending money on another rebuild only 1,000km and its destroy is not a good thing

all valid points but i think roy has hit the nail on the head. I did the same thing with my gts-t, spend $1000+ doing the gtr plenum swap, was pretty much shot down by everyone saying it wasn't worth the time or money and all points were valid but in the end i love the results i got from it and it was unique and suit me. Risking, i agree aero is unnecessary but i through it might be good to use my gtr to experiment on using what im learning at uni, and possible for my 4th year project next year. My goal is sub 55sec on the short track with 500-600hp (@ the engine) with a responsive car and not a crazy build engine. And don't worry it may seem like im not listing but everyone input is helping me improve this build and i just like to say a big thankyou

That is true but the way i look at it is the Goal of my built is a responsive track car. There may be only a 5-10% gain from going to the aftermarket dumps if that however if i only gave 50-100rpm gain in responds i will be happy, i would like to match everything so i can get as near perfect as i can, i look at other track spec gtr for example the mines gtr and see that they are running 600hp and use their dumps so i look at it like there must be a gain somewhere for them to use their dumps over stock. sure is not sure how hard it will be mod it to swap the r32 must do some more research and see if it is worth the cash, however its way under $1000 atm which is damn cheap for an ARC exhaust

After reading about 50+ pages of topics i see alot of people like the std r34 dumps however i through i might aswell upgrade to something Bigger while the turbo are out as i can't see myself doing it once i put them back in lol