Kaido_RR

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keen!!!!!!

Interested to know cost of shipping to perth ? could be interested

what do you need done? i know one workshop that can do it but sourcing the material is a f**khead and the cost is alot

i wonder if they will just get a slap on the wrist. I dont mind team orders it makes sense. I thonk it will be hard to prove it was a team order rather than massa using his brain and supporting the team. I think ferrari will say they gave massa the info and let him make up his mind. Good to see ferrari closing the gap will be interesting to see how close they are at spa

endless ccrg are good for that 50 to 800 degress. But then do like to eat disc

I was initially trying to find a 355 to race, but having a talk to my mech friend who works for ferrari i was shock at the cost. 10k for a timing belt change plus water pumps and its needed aboit every 10-20k km and its not really at homw job as the engine has to come out. However the good thing about the 355 is it doesnt use the autobox

Now this is what im talking about http://www.my105.com/classified.asp?id=14339 dont think it would be cheap to run

oh i 100% agree, i was just saying my cost so far in my build (well just pricing it up atm). I'm a person who likes to do everything them-self and build to my needs, so buying an already built race car is not really an opinion for me unless it was a euro-race car (that is a different story) cost me more in the long run but for some reason i like it that way

no brake ducting, had N1 master, endless ccrg pads, endless slotted disc, and shell racing fluid. My gtst was not stripped , only had the rear seats out. I am very hard on the brakes very late. I think what got them was the back straight 200km/hr + then braking very late and dropping my speed to 100

Haven't bought anything yet just trying to price everything up. If you want a rego gtr you are looking upwards of 20-25k landed and comp. You can get stockish r33 gtr for around 900,000 to 1,250,000 yen its the complance cost that kills you brakes i want to go big because i got fade wih my 4 pot ap (same size disc as gtr but bigger pads size) on my r33 gtst after 5-6 laps. Suspension arms i want to replace pretty much everything with ik forumal gear, so i can play with the bump steer and run -3.5 degrees of camber. Rims just ruff est i will most likely need to go 18-19inch depending on disc size and i want to run min 9.5 front and 19 rear with a +5 offset

looks nice but what is it engine mods? 55k is alot of money but im sure you get alot of RnD in the car. ActionDan, here are my calculation so far, if i go down the race/rally rego (which i think is only available in perth allows you to drive to and from events and workshops) R33 GTR : 10-15k imported Brake Kit: 5k-10k (there is a might big HKS kit which has 6pot front with something like 370*disc and 4pot rear with 355 disc for 8k + shipping) However there is a set for R35 Brembo which i am keeping an eye on for the time being Suspension: 3k Suspension arms: 4k ish Rims: 3k Cage: 1-3k depends if you go cams or j-spec then you just need to add tyres and some power and you should have a pretty good setup gtr Personally i think there is alot you can do to remove weight out of the gtr, i really haven't seen anyone here in aus go crazy with taking stuff out. i have afew ideas i think even with the AWD system you could drop it down to 1300kg ish (remove abs, aircon, all the interior bits, remove wiring that isn't needed) Just on a side note, i don't see many people running carbon ceramic disc, is there a reason why other than cost?

so admit i love my gts-t track shitter, it was epic fun to drive! grip well but love to go sliding so i had the best of both worlds (but was starting to find out how much cheaper grip racing is compare to drifting ) Kind of sad it ended so soon was awesome fun even if i had like 1mm left on my front pads and didn't have a tune yet lol lol i love watching my oil pressure gauge... goes like a yoyo

lol, sounds about on par, i never like to do things the normal way

some very interesting points been raise! making my decision more and more harder. here in perth there is really only one track Barbagallo Raceway however i will be planning on entering the LE Performance Speed Event Series which is mainly hill climbs and tight bits. Results from last year show pretty much a dominates by the evo and wrx. I know im most likely going to get shit for it but im thinking the RWD GTR opinion is the go! i might go down the path of stripping the car with the awd system and seeing what i can get it down to weight wise and if im not happy then take out the awd system. Oh and for me there won't be a MEGA budget! Which maybe makes the GTR track car build not the best idea

This topic makes me want to buy another gtst and do away with the gtr idea :s

i know i should go an evo... but i just don't like them and not a huge fan on awd in a race car. here in perth there is a stripped out evo running a 2.3l std turbo and E85 making around the 350hp mark and is seriously quick car given the driver knows what he is doing. i think the closes gtr is still 2-3seconds off his quickest time My last track car was an r33 gts-t however i put it into a wall lol... Even with the limit time i had setting it up and track time i was pretty much on pare "time wise" with gtr with similar power. i must admit though my engine was seriously tied and it was pretty much a given that the engine was going to let go sooner rather than later. I just feel i will be pushing shit uphill if i go the gtst again, as i want an rb26, the wideness of the gtr and the suspension setup also.

remove the awd i seriously see this as one of the only ways to get major weight out of a gtr, the more i think about it the more i want to do it

weight when you look at most of the time-attack races or Touge battles the car which is lighter always has the advantage. Its the main reason im second thinking a gtr because of its weight

Goal weight is 1200kg full loaded. Hp aim is between 400-500hp at the engine. I'm looking to remove everything that is not needed, to redo the wiring loom to only what is needed. completely remove the dash and make a custom on using cf or al. depending what i do with the roll cage i may go down the fiberglass or cf door path. All glass will be replaced with lexan/perspex. Will get the drive side one custom made with alittle window in it like this So i can remove all the bs in the door. I see everyone point that regarding the awd and the gtr.... hmmm maybe i might just start with it and see what i can get weight wise and if im not happy then rip it out

Chassis wise is there any differences between the gtr and gts-t? I think also why i want to use the GTR as a base, as i find the suspension setup to be more favourable to the aftermarket market. there was pretty much only 2-3 opinions when it came to good suspension components for the gts-t, while i have found alot more for the gtr. Also the wider body is a huge plus as i would ideally like to run in the 275+ tyre size, and along with the aluminium panels will help to drop the weight

Still not 100% if i want to go full DOOR2DOOR racing, as i don't really have the cash to be out there every weekend mixing it up with the big boys. However the speed series i plan to enter has an Open Class, so its pretty much a free for all, even if i was to go the gts-t path i would still be in the open class. Re-shelling the R33 is out of the question, as i have already sold most of the gear from the car lol I know building i car is going to be slow and i won't be racing for along time but for some reason i have this real argue to do it, as i really want to see what i can achieve doing 90% of the car myself. Sounds like it good point out the front suspension, i will have to look into that however, i find that the gtr has more aftermarket suspension gear available off the shelf in japan which makes me want to stay with the gtr front suspension. Power Wise im looking around the same Level 350hp-400hp i really want to focuses of building a light car with good aero aids. Australia seems to have limited development of aero-aids in the motorsport world, so i really want to have a play around in this area and also the car may be used as a base for my Engineering Thesis

Hi, some of you may already know that after a little incident at the track my gts-t track car is no more. Well this time i have decided to do things alittle difference and looking for some input of some of my not so normal ideas The plan is to go with an R33 GTR (got too much love for the r33 lol), still in 2 minds whether the car will be street rego or race/rally rego (im in perth), if i go down the race/rally rego i will need to get the car cam's log book and have the correct cams approve cage etc. I'm also in two minds if i should go a gtr are not, as my initial idea/plan is to remove all the AWD (ATTESA), remove the gtr gbox and replace it with an rb25 gbox or Hollinger box (if money permits), remove all the front shafts, run a larger sump with baffles. Keep the GTR rear end. Remove all the abs system and convert to R32 GTR Vspec 2 N1 master and lines (or even just r33 gts-t lines). What are peoples opinion on this? My whole thinking behind this is i want to get the weight down alot! plus not really a big fan on AWD in a race car. Is it worth doing all this work to gtr? or am i better off just starting with a gts-t and dropping a 26 into it?

try endless cc-rg? they work from 50 degrees up to 800 degrees. Brembo are sooo $$$ for pads i pay $280 for my endless cc-rg pads for my AP caliper, however there was about a 2-3week wait as they had to make them for me

If you are interested i have the R32 GTR Vspec2 N1 Brake master from my track car (done 1,663km) for sale for $400 as i am parting out my track car. However if you want one brand new Nissan can supply you one, the Perth nissan dealer had it in stock when i bought mine (if i remember right it was $500-$550 brand new). I can supply the part number if needed as there are alot of different ones and only 2 will fit a non-abs skyline. Also if i was you, i would look at just buying the GTR brembo (go for the R33 as they seem to be cheaper and are same as r34 apart from the r34 using a large bolt meaning you need to tap your hubs), without the disc or pads and then you are able to pick the best. Also get a set of braided brake lines as they do make a differences. Pad wise i like the Endless cc-rg however they do eat disc, if you are hard on the brakes. but they have an awesome bit right from the get go and work up to 800 degrees. ps i have my ap setup for sale too however at the price 2.5k, you are better off just going the brembos