Kaido_RR

Video option did a back to back dyno test of an r34 gtr (may have been the top secert gtr can't remeber) with no cat then apexi high flow cat, no cat only made 7hp more. I try and find the video link. Btw this was no light tune gtr it was making upwards of 600hp

remember he is running a gtr with 400hp, the clutch will take alot more

HKS 3037S on RB25

yeah outlet (just after the turbo outlet, the 1st i/c pipe). Its setup as the pic, sent the ebc to WG and still get the pulsing issue, i disconnect the EBC and ran just the gate and had the same issue, i think it May be to do with my AFM as atm its connected directly to my turbo (no intake pipe) will see what happens once i install my intake pipe The "IN" line for the ebc is T off to the same point were the controller gets its boost reading from (rear of the gtr plenum)

+1 after destroying a extremme clutch in less than 6months and having them flat out saying NO to replacing it under warranty i went and looked for a Japanese brand clutch. Went with the Nismo Twin Plate (rated at 600PS, you can get a comp. one which is rated at over 800PS) costed me 1.6K landed. Very nice clutch very easy to drive none of the typical twin plate rattle. Hope powers perfectly and its not to heavy that it will destroy your gearbox. Also the clutch can be repair (nismo sell the repair kits) and it comes with a chrome-molly flywheel. I have had mine for 2years now running 400HP wouldn't use anything else Also who is installing your clutches? as poor install can results in damage to the clutch?

Hi I'm running a hks wastegate and blitz ebc id-3. Just want to make sure i have setup everything correctly. I setup everything following the blitz manual http://www.nengun.com/doc/nengun-0317-0018..._i-d_manual.pdf Because my hks turbo didn't have a nipple on it , i tapped one onto the I/C piping just before the turbo inlet. So i run the lower outlet of the wastegate to that nipple. then the top outlet to my EBC OUT and then run the EBC IN line to the back of my plenum (gtr plenum) However when i drive the car with the ebc off, the car hits 7psi of boost and the wastegate opens but its like it only half opens and just leaks and the car loses all power. even with the ebc no matter what i set the boost at it just does the same thing. Have i setup everything right ? or is the wastegate spring f**ked? Cheers

Hey, Just upgraded my turbo again (low mount -> highmount), the turbo has a 4inch outlet, now my old turbo also did and i ended up just using a 4inch to 3inch reducer and using a 3 inch pipe. I want to run a 4inch pipe this time however the AFM is the limiting factor as it is only 3inchs, so after doing some looking/research looks like the go is to move the afm to the intercooler piping (throttle side).now i am running a 26 plenum so there will be no issue placing afm there. However i just would like to hear people opinions on moving the afm to the i/c piping? Please note this has NOTHING to do with sound etc... i run twin stock gtr bov. thanks

let us know if it's any good was thinking about buying it. Anyone got links to live stream prac tomorrow?

no rego disc doesn't mean you can't still keep your rego tag on lol

+1 rear facing camera's cant get your plate when your on your back wheel

thanks for that Guilt-toy =)

anywhere from 2K upwards but i normally i good job will cost upwards of 4k

i agree, i don't see why they would be running a t78 with aftermarket injectors but stock pump.

Pretty sure Greddy/Trust use a different type of flange than garrett/hks turbos on their manifolds. If you want 300kw look at the Trust TD06-25g with 10cm rear housing or larger http://www.trust-power.com/02turbo/turbo_charger.html edit: found a photo of the design of the turbo; see different style flange

Hey, I need to drive my car down to the workshop (about 15-20mins) to get an intake pipe made up, is it ok to drive the car if i have the afm connected directly to the turbo inlet? Cheers

new turbo setup finally in, had the manifold and rear turbo housing ceramic coated got my diff back today (with nismo 2way install) will put that in hopfully this week, also sorted out a cusco 12-point cage

brad they have had these cameras for years now, and have been using them in W.A for the past 2-3 years. Normally they just turn around the normal speed camera so it gets your rear number plate and not your front. Also i was under the impression that if another vehicle which is traveling in the same direction as you is in the photo that the fine would not be issue

I'm pretty sure i got my old afm (r33 s1) sitting around somewhere in my spare room, if you still need another one to try out give us a yell and i find it for you

i was told it was only 2l :s

Hey Just wondering if anyone knows any places in perth that stock Motul Competition Oil. Im after 5L : 300V COMPETITION 15W-50 (3x) 4L: GEAR COMPETITION 75W-140 (4x) I went to repco but they don't stock the compeition oil and are unsure of the cost to get it in from the eastern states (waiting for call back), Also im kind of in need of the oil this week Cheers and to the mod that close my 1st topic I do not have the time to call 20+ companies to find out if they stock the oil, Might aswell just pick up the yellow pages I'm very busy with work and uni so don't have 20mins to spare. I throught the whole point of a forum was to get info telling me a list of workshop doesn't help. That topic is not the be all of places to get stuff in Perth

thanks

thanks, im using a bride rail

Hey, Can anyone point me in the right direction to some good places in perth that sell a good range of fasteners. And no im not talking about bunnings or places like that. I'm after a few specific things. And looking to buy more than just few (20+ of each type). 17mm bolt; length 8-10mm tapered (basically its a wheel nut but i can't use a std length of 15mm) (needs to suit M12 x P1.25) Also need a box of allen key bolts and bolts to suit. Have already try the normal places without luck (coventry, auto-one etc)

Ray's make a 17mm wheel nut =)

nice work ! good to see another r33 drifting.