Kaido_RR

im running -2.8 atm, can't get anymore without getting some aftermarket LCA. ahaha don't think i be slaming her just yet. also i don't mind if they hang out ahahaha

no worries =) just remember the turbo does produce alot of heat and you don't get much airflow under the bonnet so the temp do heat up. i find that even just letting the car idle for 5mins or so min that it does start to get quite hot in the engine bay. If your really worry just keep an eye on your temp gauge.

my engine bay is always hot regardless of the temperature. if your worry about your temp gauge not working or being incorrect then go out and buy an aftermarket gauge but i say there is nothing wrong with your car

how can your engine bay be icey cold after a run on a 40+ deg day? regardless of the outside temperate your engine produces alot of heat which is absorbed by everything in the engine bay.

nismo uses IHI turbos on the z-tune, Ferrari F40 uses IHI turbos too. very popular in Europe

nothing new. less it cost them the more money they make. makes me feel good i have always uses HKS turbos. yes its a garrett but its mod by HKS in JAPAN and people always wonder why they cost what they do

whats your temp gauge reading? if the car isn't over-heating you have nothing to worry about. the engine bay will get hot

why is bigger is better? Most J-spec oilcooler and oil reolcation kit for the rb use the s15 (sr20 filter) which is smaller than the rb filter

changing to +15 17x9 and +18 17x9. due to issue with brake clearance on the front (silly ap calipers) running +23 9inch atm wonder how it go with the +18 here is what it looks with a 8mm split on so +15 front edit: with my front bar on Note: R33 gts-t with stock front guards no rolling

Hey Bought some +15mm bolt on spacers from just-jap, went to put them on and i have a problem the nut they supply to bolt the spacer to the hub sticks out too far so when i go to put my wheel on it hits the nuts and sit on them. Does anyone know where i can get some stubby tapped nuts to sit flush? I know i can run some split on spacers to solve the problem but if im going to do that i might aswell just buy the +20mm bolt ons

thanks steve watch afew of his videos on the website car looks very quick even with the res. love the wet race car looks wild even in 3rd gear

very nice looks like a good field of cars, can i ask what is needed to race? im guessing cams approve cage ? do you use any data logging?

+1 see if i can get off my ass and get the car back together, tune and all that stuff i will be in

did u run it in and change the oil?

might need a right angle drill, everything is out of the way just depends how big your drill is. aslong as you don't f**k it up you can do it ahaha

Hi Just looking for some feedback on what everyone runs engine oil wise in skyline running over 400rwhp. I have used Mobli 1 full synthetic but switch to Motul 300V (10W40) however i have find it burns black pretty quick (change every 5000km). The car is a track base car (rarely driven on the street). I have talked to alot of people and have gotten alot of different answer... also i remember reading a topic on sau (i think posted by URAS) about engine oil and a test that was done however i can't seem to find the topic anymore... Brands im currently looking at are Agip, Shell Helix Ultra 10W60 All were recommend to me by a mech that works at ferrari and deals with them day in day out. They all use the Shell but said some owners ask to use Agip and or elf. Has anyone had any experience with these oils? Also I notice alot of Japanese tuning houses have their own oil, i know nismo uses motul but im not sure what HKS uses (if its there own blend or they use someone else product) edit: nismo motul oil http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...neup/15w50.html 15w50 Cheers

Hey Can anyone recommend a Mobile Mechanic (NOR) to come remove broken studs from an rb25 head (exhaust manifold studs) i have one broken one and one thread hole. I have already tap out one to a bigger thread with no issue but i would prefer to get someone to remove the broken one (snap inside the head). Oh the joys of running antilag on a stock manifold Cheers Michael

yahoo auction 17x8.5j +35 5stud can be ship with tyres but normally its just easier to remove them in japan and ship without be like 1k landed or around that 17x8.5J +40 & 17x9.5J +40 similar price here is the search links http://search1.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/sea...=0jp&acc=jp and http://search1.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/sea...=0jp&acc=jp

haven't post in awhile but here is an update on my setup (almost finish) Oil cooler setup (note all my fuses, remove the fuse box from the engine bay, just need to setup the box now) Twin Gtr bov setup Oil cooler setup + catch can (note no fuse box ) Gtr Plenum on rb25 Suspensions setup seat + harness nismo wheel + gauges (dodgy horn button for now as the car still gets driven on the street now and then) Still got alot of work to do; new turbo setup is off to get coated. waiting on nismo lsd from japan. Still need to fine tune the suspension and possible upgrade my LCA to moonface so i can run some more camber (currently max out at -3degrees), also looking at getting a moonface lockbar for the hicas (but pricey at $600). Seat is getting replaced with a Zeta 3 (currently Zeta 2). Need to remove all the carpet and the rest of the crap. trying to source a cage but having no lock all j-spec cages are over $1500 due to the cost of shipping, might just end up getting a cams approve one made locally. Just order a driftbox so i can do some data logging, from everything i read the data logging system it is looks pretty much spot on so should be interesting once its setup and i can review my times and also check out how well im drifting too

All the setup i have seen run Block -> filter -> cooler -> block I run a HKS oil cooler kit, and on the relocation adapter it has the 4 ports to connect the lines to plus an extra port which is block by a fitting, if you could use something like that then you can connect the line for the turbo. Most j-spec relocation adapters have an extra spot for an oil pressure senders (most of them will be on the fitting which goes onto the block) Here is an example: http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/oil-filter-moval-kit as you can see from the pic it has the ports for the pressure sender (however you want something with 4 ports were the filters goes on). Also you can tee off one of the lines for your turbo oil supply i would do it from the one which goes from the reloacion adapter to the block (so it has already been filter and cooled)

Hey, Just wondering what is the best way to get the brake lines from an r33 gts-t (s1 nonabs) to line upto the R32 GTR Vspec N1 Brake Master. R33 Gts-t R32 N1 as you can see the n1 is on the side and the r33 is at the front on the top, i try bending the lines but there isn't enough play to get them into line

I renew my insurance in in dec 09 and Just Car had the market value of my r33 gts-t S1 1993 at $11,000

Hi Just wondering if anyone has use a STACK DVR kit http://www.stackltd.com/dvrharsh.html Quality looks very good, and from all the reading i have done looks like its uses in top level of motorsport Price is about $1760 for Stack Clubman 3 Kit which comes with Package * Goldstar interface module (if applicable) * Sony HQ1 580tvl cameras with a choice of lens specific to your requirements * Small sensitive microphone * Choice of anti vibration, multi directional, CNC machined Goldstar mount and camera holder * Connection cables * Applicable software and instruction manual Problem is i can't find any dealers in Australia for stack looks like there is only 2 resellers for the Stack video gear (uk and europe) I have use a Go-Pro Hero in the past and it was ok but found the sounds to be average and i had a issue with the suction cup coming lose and the end result was one smash go-pro

don't just cars only use market value? i couldn't find a opinion when redoing my insurance for agree value

If you'r running pretty standard stuff then there is no real reason to change your cams. However if you fill the need i would advice at getting cams which allow you to still run VCT. If i remember correctly only 2 brands offer this (HKS and tomei). Also 272 is too big, if anything i would advice a 256. off the shelft j-spec cams will cost you around the same price so i would advice going with something that is try and tested