Kaido_RR

why should i pay 100% mark up? seriously i was quote $2500 supplied, fitted and balance for AD08 i pay $1200 landed and $50 for fitting and balance for the same tyres from tirerack

some footage

good result, be interesting to see if hyper's will tune it if you unlock it and give them the cable + english software

yeah was awesome! it was before the festival of speed, they told everyone that they were allowed to do the street run but then it was cancel due to safety then at the last min (like on the day) the cop went ahead and allowed it to run! Was epic seeing a f1 car smash limiter on the street

hmm thanks everyone, trying to work out if my engine is in fact from an r33 or r32 owner informed me it is from an r33 hmm

lol 100km/hr speed limit just like perth

is there anything else? like a engine code on the block?

Just wondering if there is anyway to tell the difference between an r32 and r33 RB26, is there a code on the block which can be FAST? Cheers

did you replace all the copper washers? its ifs dripping/dropping from the turbo i would say you have a leak in one of the fitting going to the turbo and that the turbo themselves may be fine

NGK BCPR7ES 0.8gap in an rb26 running 18psi 370hp

Just trying to work out if my spark plugs should look like this (i would say they have travel 1000km or less) all plugs look similar with white on the tip and black around the base. is the tune running to lean?

cheers will go down and check them out

if you don't mind me asking what was the price on the n1 bar? was it from north-side?

Hi After a Roll Cage to suit R32 GTR can be full or half prefer with harness bar but not necessary. located in Perth but willing to buy interstate

Nismoid if you read my 1st post, i said its highly likely that my head will need to come off. This is the only reason why i have been looking into cams. i'm very happy with the engine and power level and have no real plan to do anything engine wise. However if the head must come off for other reason i see it as a good times to look at upgrading the head (port/flow, cams etc) If you look at the list of mods on my car its far from $$$$, its pretty much all just bolts on gear, yes all of it is name brand jdm gear however i never paid full price. I have been driving the car at the track however, last track day i hit some reliability issue which i am trying to fix atm which may required the head to come off. And yes i have had chats with 2 of the faster gtr runners here in perth. one pretty much said i needed all the big dollars gear if i wanted to run his sort of lap times (sub 55sec) djr81, i'm just trying to build all rounded car yes i like doing track day @ Wanneroo, but their is plan to run rally-sprints, speed-event series. So its a toss up between keeping top end but also not losing too much in the lower rpm range too.

running power fc D-Jetro with apexi map senors, currently sitting on 370rwhp @ 18psi with alittle some spike around the 5000rpm range to 20-22psi then back down to 18psi (remember off the top of my head as don't have dyno print out) Was thinking i would run a thicker head-gasket if the head is coming off. For the cams i was looking at some group a cams Working angle Lift Valve timing 264°(66°) 9.7 105° 272°(68°) 10.1 105° I have done alot of read regarding cams and there seems to be two side to each story one side is "stock cams + cam gears" other side is "a/m cams + cam gears = better than std" Now i don't want to change cams more than once, my power range is 350-450hp i will never go more than that as i want a reliable track car. Now i now i can achieve that with stock cams (i have already) however will cams give me more torque through the mid range and more average power compare to std? I know this is not a simple question to answer and their are alot of factors which play into it (like condition of engine etc), However there has to be a reason why some people get results from aftermarket cams and others don't?

i am correct in saying the f-con is unlike the pfc were you need a dongle. the hks just uses a cable correct?

btw Ten Four buy the hks nav, just like the pfc h/c http://www.sw20.jp/20/Tech_Articles/HKS_F-Con_V-Pro/Navigator_Pro.html edit: also give this website a read some good info regarding the f-con pro http://www.sw20.jp/20/Tech_Articles/HKS_F-Con_V-Pro/HKS_V-Pro.html

but can you tune the ecu? my point is no other tuner in perth has the software + cable to do. so yes you may be able to get the software in english but without the cable it is useless. its not impossible to get the software + cable and from what i have seen is not that pricey compare to the pfc dongle unit. However for some reason tuners here in perth (and also looks like australia wide) don't seem to want to tune them (not sure if it has something to do with hks and rumours that they only want hks dealers to tune their ecu)

thanks discopotato what an insightful reply. I agree that i don't want to go crazy big/huge cams, my turbos are relatively small (gt-ss) and so far the lag is not so bad, and the car pulls all the way to redline no issue. I was trying to work out if there is a possible way to possible shift the power band down alittle to help bring the turbos on earlier while still keeping the top end power. It does look like my head way need to come off therefore if i can do some head work with cams which will achieve the goals i want i think it will be a win win

What model is your F-con Pro v3? They are a better unit when compare to a PFC. However the question you should ask yourself is do you really need it? When a PFC will do the job. Also no one else in perth has the english software to tune it (i can get you the Japanese one no problem but then good luck trying to tune it), so you will only be able to use Xspeed R31Nismoid the going rate in perth for a PFC tune is anywhere from $500 to $1500 depending where you go, also the higher price does not mean a better tune

pretty sure both 33/34 use 333 or 330 disc

R33/34 Brembo are very good. You need to run a better pad/disc combo. I would also advice on getting braided brake lines and a brake master stopper. for disc i would be looking at something from the Project Mu range Pads i personally recommend Endless cc-rg (i run them in my track gtr with ap racing caliper) they are a great pad i rate them very high! however they are dusty, noises @ low speed and due to being ceramic carbon material they can eat disc There are plenty of options out their for pads and disc, but i generally found that the better stuff does cost alot more

awesome, very keen for ones with the door handles cut out

Front pipe is an easy job. 6 bolts in total. 4 of the dump pipe (2 each) and 2 connecting to the cat. dump pipe bolts are 14mm or 12mm if i remember right and i think the bolts on the cat are bigger 17mm