Kaido_RR

lets just hope it works this time lol

band aid fix. did you really think you could run a big aftermarket turbo with a stock ecu, stock ecu, stock afm and it would run good and make power? do people not understand the idea of supporting mods; you can't make safe power with out enough fuel

can be fix. go to supercheap or similar and buy a fiberglass repair kit. sand the section behind the crack, smash some fiberglass on it. bog up the front (to fill in the cracks) then sand it back and paint it. or you can give it to a workshop like beyond custom to do

nice video, didn't know kerbs was going to use to boost the power for 6 seconds, should make things interesting to see which teams will run it from the start

rx7 jzx100 chaser evo 6 wit 14k you won't get much, save to around 20k-25k and you will increase your options. Unique and Japanese is a hard one, want something unique go buy euro

parts are easy and hard to find... there are still afew shops in japan which make parts for them but they are not cheap. yahoo auction still has some good stuff aswell http://search1.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/sea...ode=1&apg=1 check out the this section of the forum http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cl...ylines-f77.html suspension wise you can do alot of things buy to suit the dr30 swap over and use r32 or r31 gear etc i know mayhem ex red dr30 the one master bought has high high mount, stroker and 25 gbox

have fun big waste of money but very fun lol

needs more camber and some aero mirrors but nice!

my before and after results were Before: Full boost @ 16psi 3300rpm After: More power More torque More responds Full Boost @ 18psi 3200rpm different dynos where used; second dyno reads lower than the 1st dyno but still made more power. The car changed characteristics greatly; the car gain alot of responds; no matter what gear or were you were i the rev range. The car was tune very soft, still has alot more in it but i choice not to push it; plus @ the time of the tune still had an exhaust leak

you will have to use the gt-t AAC valve, as the gt-t uses 2 plugs on it but the gtr only uses one. GTR injectors and rail is easy, you just wire in the std gtr resister pack, and gtr injectors are cheaper than gt-t injectors. i am running a hks oil cooler but i still found that the vacuum box that is bolted onto the under side of the gtr plenum would not fit, so i fab up my own mine and hook up all the vacuum hoses that were needed into it Also looks like you use the GTR water outlet on the plenum the other option you could have gone was to cut off the gt-t water outlet and weld that onto the gtr plenum. then the angle would not have been so bad but looks like it will still work.

SUPER ADVAN RACING 2 SUPER ADVAN RACING 3 PRO SAR2: $1000-$1500 landed from japan SAR3 PRO: 2.5k-3k landed from japan

has been done before. (few cars in wa) if i remember correctly sr20 is lighter than the rb20

s3 gtr xenon headlights fit on a s1 without changing any panels

lol fact or fiction?

very simple if the owner has looked after the car there is no reason why it cant be reliable. its that simple.

learn to wheelie it and then pass everyone on your back wheel win win!

SAVE YOUR MONEY then buy a gtr. or better yet just buy a bike

lol now SK is gone, means i stop getting bash for my 10/10 spring rate lol

removed it, took out what wasn't needed and used a smaller box and put it directly underneath where it normally is. Did it to create space for the remount oil filter, i/c piping and now have a catch can there on another note: finally got the car tune; made an extra 30hp and has responds everywhere now and more torque too but still have an exh manifold leak, so looking at removing the stock manifold and getting a r31 house GTRS manifold bad news is i won't be able to take the car to the track for another 6months due to a motorbike accident

sounds like a great idea would enter but don't have the cash for another set of tyres. would be great if they could have an open street tyre class and a race (semi-slick) tyre class; but can understand why you pick a control tyre

ahaha yes i agree!

my only advice would be try not to build a track/street car. i started out doing that with my skyline and it does not work. no track car is fun on the street, and when it comes time to move on it sad to see what people are willing to pay for it thats why im keeping mine and focusing more on track time

i had a similar problem with my d2; the way i got them to finally move was to spray air into the area (used a compressor)

if i remember right c-red sold small indicators that could be put in the ducts on the left and right side or else u could covert your park lights to indicators edit found a pic http://www.c-red.com.au/images/content/new...x_a_f-90x90.jpg

stock offset for gt-t on the rear is +38 and front is +35, so you shouldn't have an issue with +45