Kaido_RR

Firstly i would like to start out with this is not your typical "which cam is best for my car" topic, and YES I KNOW stock cams work well for my current power. However i have come to the stage where it looks like i am have to take off my head to replace afew things and while the head is off i would like to change the cams and the supporting hardware. But before i go looking for which cam is best for my application i am wondering if anyone can give me a insight into what all the terms(angle, lift) mean and how they affect the power and torque. Is it a good idea to go different angle/lift intake to exhaust? What is the std spec for r33 rb26 cams? Does anyone know the spec for Group A GT-R? Also any personally experience from changing cams in RB26 and how it affect the car afterwards would be great also Cheers

Very interested any idea on shipping to perth?

You need to log book the car and show you will be entering events, the car must be to cams spec (r.g roll cage which means you are looking min 5k just for the cage) Plus you need a cams license and not just a lvl 2 speed which means you need to get your events log and take a test etc to go to the higher level

Advan AD08 255/40/R17 x4 $1200 inc shipping from the US @ www.tirerack.com or if you want something cheaper but rated just as good go the Dunlop Direzza Star Specs i think they were around $200 cheaper highly recommended the Advan AD08 run them on my gtr and they are a great tyre

cheers. It was a gamble for me to go the nismo gear.. I didn't want to spend the big bucks to kit out everything in Ikeya but i wanted some improvement over the std gear hopefully the nismo gear gives me that little extra. Little off topic but what do you guys run in the rear? After installing my suspension and and adjusting the height i have way to much camber in the rear (2 degree+), which i am surprise as the car isn't that low

wonder why nismo went to non-adjustable arm. From everything i read adjustable arms are no good due to the vibration losing the adjustable nuts? true or myth ?

Also go over to the ikeya Formula website http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp/en/index.html they have some interesting information regarding they arms set. If i was going full out i would use the Ikeya Formula gear however it will not be cheap

As djr81 mention the nismo gear is nice but very $$$ and the adjustment it gives you is still very limited Nismo give the follow specs for the Circuit Link Set Changes * Effective length of the tension rod has been shortened (-5mm) to provide optimum caster angle. * Effective length of transverse link has been lengthened (+4mm) to provide optimal camber angle. *The position of the installation holes on the upper arm of the upper link bracket has been changed to restrict the twisting that can result from high caster position, and provide optimal camber angle. * Changes in alignment, on standard vehicle height (Designed value): Caster angle: Before installation: 3°40’; after installation: 4°25’ Camber angle: Before installation: -0°55’; after installation: -1°25’ The figures above may vary by ±0.45, depending on individual vehicle characteristics. I just pick myself up a second hand Link Set plus upper arm from japan and price was still well over $500 for all the gear (FYI brand new the Link set not inc the upper arm is around 90,000yen And i am unsure if you can still buy the nismo upper arm) For Swaybar if you want adjustable and willing to pay the extra cash go ARC, however you are looking at around $1000 for both the F and R sway bar. Cusco is alot better price at around $400-$500ish for the set. Nismo are alittle more $$$ around $600 (ran nismo sway bars on my previous track car gts-t and found them to be great) Pic of the Ikeya fourmula upper arm to compare to the nismo one BTW Ollie, what suspension will you be running and spring rate?

Mines also make a non-split dump for the gtr. Tomei never used a split design, i think its mainly due to the length of the gtr dumps, they are too short and therefore the split causes unnecessary turbulence. Take alook at the Greddy/Trust Dump/ Pipes they are the one of the better split design as the length is alot longer. edit: Also the Older Tomei design is the largest dia dump pipes for the gtr, the newer design (lost-wax design) is i think 5mm smaller in dia

More Information General Requirements/Administrative Procedures DRC Vehicle Preparation 1. Contact CAMS WA to obtain DRC and Logbook paper work (9444 3188). 2. Obtain/complete the Inspection Record for CAMS Dedicated Rally Car (DRC) (Doc No. Y) form from CAMS. Discuss any technical matters with CAMS Scrutineer as required. 3. Apply for a Department of Transport (DoT) Vehicle Standards Exemption Application (DoT form for immobiliser, harnesses etc) and obtain Approval Letter from DoT for the exemptions. Note go through Welshpool Licensing Centre only for all matters relating to DRC’s. 4. Contact CAMS Scrutineer to make an appointment for rally car inspection and sign-off Inspection Record form upon completion of build. 5. Upon approval from Scrutineer apply for/obtain CAMS vehicle Logbook. 6. Once passed by the Scrutineer make an appointment (within 28 days) with the DoT (Welshpool only) to have your DRC inspected. A fee will be charged, allow approximately 2 hours for the inspection/processing of licence application etc. Take the following documents with you to both the Scrutineer’s inspection and the DoT Examiner’s inspection:  CAMS and WA civil driver’s licence, CAMS vehicle log book (once obtained), and driver’s CAMS affiliated car club membership card;  Vehicle homologation papers and/or workshop manuals, roll cage certificate/homologation papers, import papers (DOTARS) etc;  CAMS Letter of Introduction (Form No. X);  CAMS Inspection Record for DRC signed by Scrutineer (Doc No. Y);  DoT Vehicle Standards Exemption approval letter; and  Engineer’s reports covering any special modifications, e.g. steering, roll cage, brake hoses where applicable (Refer to CAMS DRC Manual). 7. Upon successful completion of the Examiners Inspection the DRC will be eligible for licensing which can be completed at the same visit. DRC number plates will be issued by DoT at this point. Note cars being licensed for the first time will also be subject to full Stamp Duty rates. 8. Take the DoT approvals to CAMS for log book notation and CAMS stamp. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- DRC Conditions of Use A DRC is a CAMS log booked vehicle built for the sole purpose of competing in Rally events under the rules of the FIA and CAMS. A DRC can only be used on public roads under the following circumstances:  To drive directly to and from and participate in an official CAMS motorsport event, including scrutineering;  To drive to and from official promotional events, including media days and displays;  To drive to and from maintenance/repair establishments;  For any other purpose at the request of the WA CAMS office; and  In compliance with DoT requirements of concessional licensed vehicles. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- DRC Annual Renewal All CAMS DRC’s will undergo an annual renewal inspection for compliance with the technical requirements of the DRC Manual by a CAMS’ Scrutineer to retain DRC eligibility and subsequent licence renewal. Scrutineering can be conducted at pre-event scrutineering, the final method/details of annual renewal inspections to be advised by CAMS following implementation of the DRC Program. Completion of the annual inspection will be recorded in that vehicle’s CAMS Log Book. DRC’s which no longer meet the criteria of the CAMS DRC Program or fail to be presented for annual inspection will cease to be considered a CAMS DRC and will be removed from the listing, with the DoT being advised for cancellation of the DRC registration

After having alittle think about the build, i have decide to change which way i want to go with this car. So after alittle looking, purchase myself Nismo Circuit Link Set and upper arm. Will give me that extra camber and castor which should help, not going to go full out yet so starting with small upgrade and see how that goes before i spend the cash on the I.K fourmal gear

Hey, anyone know of any Ohline part supplier which will supply the Ohline Japanese stuff (carrozzeriajapan)? Looking to upgrade the suspension on my track GT-R with the 4way Ohline gear however i need to get some tops for them and not sure what to use

+1 Nismo GT 2way lsd in my Gts-t was daily drive and no issue even in the wet. My old man even drove it alot with no issue Also Car is alot more easier to control on the track i prefer 2way, even for gripping

interesting idea, only problem is bought ARC Radiator not long ago

I think RIP quoted me upwards of $500 for the catch can last time i check, i know autoselect (i think it is) sell a similar design for around the 30,000yen mark. Does the JJR have a baffle in it?

i had issue with mine too and i say i would have been running anywhere between 250-300rwhp (untune so couldn't say for sure). No idea why ARC changed the filter design the older ones seems so much better

Hi, Just looking for idea if anyone has made any ducting for their r32 gtr. Would like to run duct similar to r33/34 gtr but dont think they fit (i have a share r33 rb25de duct but doesnt fit ) Also has anyone drill a hole at the bottom were the stock airbox is and put a duct upwards from the front bar? was thinking of doing this however i do plan on buying a trust oil cooler in the near future and plan on getting the one that sits in that section

Hey Dan, don't have any stock r33 gtr wheels but do have a set of advan(17x9.5 +19) however they are only running 235/45/17 on them not sure if you can past with that but if you need them shot me a pm and your welcome to borrow them, if you cant get anything else (they are just sitting in storage atm)

i had the same issue with my R32 GTR and arc airbox, however mine didn't suck is at much as your but you could see the top one being pulled in and f**king the filter. (car was relatively stock, n1 turbo and around 1bar of boost untune) I found its due to the design of the new ARC filters, as mine came with the older design filters, and when i 1st got the new ones i through i had order the wrong ones. Never had the issue with the older the design i see if i can find them and take some photos of it. If you could get a K&N filter similar to the older design it will stop the problem. ps To me it looks like the new filters don't fit 100% thats why the problem

do you have the a/c lines from the condenser ?

your joking right? I had zero issue with turn in with my nismo 2way lsd in my r33 gts-t, my old man even drove it and had little issue with it. And regarding the noise issue, Was your install setup correctly? (i mean when it was install in the housing, eg correct backlash etc) I bought myself a brand new nismo 2way lsd (normal GT type, non-adjustable) install in the housing by a pro, ran the lsd as nismo stated change the oil after the running 300-500km (using the nismo/motul oil) and mine was not very noises at all i was very happy with it

Incorrect regarding nismo run in Nismo State the following "After Installation, test drive the vehicle for about 180miles (300km) at speed less than 40mph (60kmh). Avoid any quick maneuvers" http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competition/manual/pdf/lsdpro_manual02.pdf

not really worth the coin and im not sure if a 25 or 26 head would fit and there would be alot of stuffing around and at the end of the day what it would cost you would be cheaper to just do a 25 swap and put a greddy plenum on that when the engine is out

its a big job for very little gain. i'm not sure if they make the greddy plenum for rb20, but even that will cost you around $900-$1000 for a real greddy plenum or $300-$500 for a china copy then you have the install cost. If i was you i would sell the afc neo and get yourself a rom tune done you will get alot better results and the car will run alot better also (think its call niztune or something for the rb20, i know hyperdrive can do them)

its not abut removing the std plenum that is the issue. When you add the a adapter plates the extra length pushes the plenum outwards further and the gap between the plenum and body is very small. Due to the 1st section of te plenum having long studs on it and the size of the plenum itself it becomes very hard to split the plenum onto the stud due to the space. Also it is alot asier to hookup all the vacuum and heater hoses which go underneath when the engine is out.