Kaido_RR

Shaun @ All Star Unit 3/21 Vale Street Malaga, Western Australia 6090 Ph: 08 9248 7433 they got very good results from my friends turbo honda, Shaun spent the extra time to get the tune right, and he was more than happy to spend more time on it once my friend had taken the car out and driven on the street and found some issue with the vtec and the turbo. Shaun also tune my car with A+++ results (powerfc) and if i didn't already have a pfc i would be going down the ultimate path as in my opinion it is a far better ecu that the pfc

cool, would love to see pics i have just order my kit from japan so should be here within the week hopfully i can do the swap in a weekend if not i might just wait till a buy another daily

gmg with white nismo rims = good i upload later

see here http://www.beyondhollywood.com/category/th...s-4-2009-movie/ looks like the cars will be mustang and new STi

the file i have attach explain how to use the MFD (muiltfuction display) in the R34 GTR. From my understanding the V-spec model had the upgrade function on displaying Int Temp. and exh temp R34MFD.pdf

I just through i would let everyone know that i have found a source in japan who can supply the kit the kit includes Changing Flange Hexagon Bolts AAC Valve (for RB25) fitting Flange It will use normal gaskets. (guess this means i can use nissan gaskets) there is a 1week production time from placing order. price looks to be under $1000 delivered. So shanef kit is very well price at around $700

smaller tyres are good initial but depending on the power, i found i ate up my set of 16 on the rear which were running 225 in only a few laps. Although i am basing my opinions around my car which has around 300-350hp. So with that thinking if you are only running 250hp then 215 or 225 should be a better starting point. I think grip plays a very important roll in drifting thats why i went for a good tyre up front. When i was running my worn G3 on the front, understeer was shocking, which i can say was also due to my poor drifting skills as i would try to get the car to do things which would cause understeer but also the fronts wouldn't hold the line and a question for gray, what are your through about increase track, as one talking to more drifter said increase in track is a good thing

thanks for your input gary its always good to get another person perspective on my setup. I'm interested to see the difference the increase in camber and reduction in castor will make, so before the next drift practiced i will go get my alignment setup changed and see the difference Also have not adjusted the rear camber, as the rear arms are solid and not adjustable, i'm still fine-tuning some suspension bits, so i can start playing around with the rear alignments. and on your last comment and i didn't pick the spring rate to suit Wanneroo, it was a compromised as i found the tein type RS for sale with 10/10kg spring rate at a price too good to pass up. I was initial worry that the spring rate would be too hard and the ride would be really poor. but i was really surprised once they were on. the damper and rebound are both set to the softest setting (both have independent adjustment). If your in perth sometime i would like to take you for a ride as i do believe they are a comfortable ride Cheers Michael

thanks everyone for your input i ended up with the 400D and love it

ok heres my 5cents, at the current time my r33 is setup for drift but i daily drive it im running the following suspension gear Tein - Type RS Coilover (F&R spring 10/10kg) Nismo F & R Swaybars (diameter 27.2 (hollow) front, and diameter 23 (hollow) rear) Nismo Front Upper Arm Nismo Rear Lower Link Nismo Rear Upper Link Race Gear Castor Rods Ikeya Formula Tie Rods SubFrame Bushes (set in the postion for overall grip) Tomie 3-point strut brace Do-luck Floor Brace Tyres i run 235/45/R17 Potenza RE001 up front and rear is 235/45/R17 Federal. My alignment settings are; Front: Camber: -2.5 degrees Castor: 8 Toe: -0.1mm first of let me say i daily drive my r33 but also attend drift practiced, and grip events (mc days etc). I find my car comfortable on the street, my oldman drives my r33 also and doesn't have a problem with the ride My car handles near perfect at drift. i have alot of control and only very rarely do i experience understeer, which is due to incorrect enter. I have extreme amount of front end and rear grip which helps when drifting in perth (large course so most of the drifting is done in 3rd gear). Comment the suspension workshop made on my car when they test drove it at an mc day was that the front end is setup perfect with larges amounts of grip but due to the large rear spring rate the back end tends to want to drift. they suggest dropping the spring rate down to 7/8kg if i wanted to focus more on grip events and also to upgrade my tyres (at the time i had very worn potenza g3 40% of less tread left on them). But they also said that the car can be driven with its current setup and grip just my stlye of driving would have to be adjusted (as i drive in a more drifty way ) So now to the important part, i see you have the SK groupbuy suspension setup, but what tyres ( and tyre size) are you running when drifting? do you have stock lsd? my opinion is to sell your current setup and move into something like an enter level J-spec coilover, with a spring rate around the 6-8kg. If price is an issue you can buy second hand j-spec coilovers which are still in good condition for around $1000 to $1500 mark depending where you look. I would suggest looking at tein because they can be rebuild and changed here in Australia, for example if you get a superstreet with say 4/5kg spring rate and find its too soft for drift you can have them change to 6/8kg here in australia, at a pretty reasonable price. Also your alignment setup will have an affect, so maybe post up your current spec. one last point, your current setup may be ok for drift but you may be tring drift in a way which cause understeer *if you get what im saying* Cheers Michael

The local Bridgestone Motorsport dealer in perth sells them. Anyways i ended up going with the RE001 as i got a set for a good price. And i can say they unbelievably good, i was thinking they would be similar grip level to the G3 (which where my last two sets of tyres) but they are miles ahead in terms of grip. I was running them on the front for a drift practices and the whole night (2-3hrs) the front end never lost grip and held the cars line. I am very impressed by the RE001, and can't wait to take them for a grip lap and see what sort of times i can put down

Im running an APP kit on my car but it uses AP Racing Calipers. I found the kit to be great really good quality, the APP braided lines are really good. APP is a well known Japaneses brand and isn't some china kit

thanks if anyone is interested i found place in perth which stocks RE01-R i got quote $345 for 235/45/R17

awesome! this is the sort of information i need THANKS! if its possible do you have a pic of the resistor pack?

thats a good price, in perth a person was quoted $300/tyre for 225/40R17. which i was more than disappointed about seeing as i can get RE01-R in 235/40/17 for $330

i will add my 2cents im running tein circuit master Type RS, with 10kg F/R spring rate. i currently have the damper and rebound both set to soft. Atm i'm back to daily driving my r33 and find the ride to be firm but still comfortable, on the odd occasion i go over a large bump in the road it is hard. My father drives the car and has commented that the ride is alot better compare to my old setup (d2 with very large spring rate above 14kg) and that he doesn't mind driving the car now because it is comfortable don't know if this help you but i through i add my opinion

thanks for the info one more thing can you use the std rb25 throttle cable or will you need a gtr cable?

i notice the quality of your adopter plate looks identical to the blitz kit, but what i would like to know is how you are going to solve the ACC valve issue and the idle senors? also will you we using gtr injectors and fuel rail and if so how will you wire it up ? is it as simple as just getting the gtr gear (acc valve) and hooking it up as if it was the gts-t valve? Also gtr injectors use a resistor pack or something along those lines so? would it just be simple to grab a gtr harness and swap the injector part and wire it in? sorry about the amount of question just very keen to get this done also be very keen to see the results

i like the idea, but the design is pretty large, seems to take up alot of space? is the idea to give one throttle body supply air to 3 cylinders? what is the I/C endtake design? does it go 2 into one (pipe) or does the I/c have a dual inlet? also is it looks like its running 3inch piping not stock size

hmm interesting read my main problem is using gtr injectors and the ACC valve. i can source the adopter plate from japan (quality is very good) and won't have a problem sending it out to one of you guys to copy. but i have the issue of wiring up the gtr injectors and the getting the ACC valve to work. in the end i don't think it will work out cheaper than the greedy opinion but i am in preference to the 6 throttles. I'm also very interested to see if the gain are for real, as alot of Japanese mag claim 20-40hp increase and an increase in responds. BUT i have also read that responds under 3000rpm is decreased i can't remember if this is what blitz stated or if it was in a Japaneses mag. Also at the same time, i am considering buying a NISMO plenum and putting that on at the same time, weather or not it will make a huge different will be interesting to see also edit: i just had alook at the pdf file i had from blitz about the tip, and it also mention that there is issue with the idle senors, i would be interested if someone has a digram of the rb26 plenum and rb25 to compare where each item is (digram from the owners book or fast program) ALSO LETS TRY AND KEEP ON TOPIC

blitz no longer make there kit which can cause a problem if you just buy the adopter plate, as the genuine blitz kit came with afew other things, like: AAC valve adapter kit; so you can run the GTR AAC valve. In the pass week i have had a friend in japan get incontact with URAS and blitz asking about the kit, URAS does not make the kit and advised us to called blitz, blitz no longer make the kit another place that could get it was http://www.ricohracing.com/ , but now there website doesn't work anymore and we couldn't get incontact with them

http://driftwa.com.au/forum/index.php?showtopic=588&st=0

how will that solve is problem? the stock ecu is made to go into rich mode, when the boost is increased, so something else is not working correctly. changing the ecu is just a quick bandage and doesn't really solve the real problem Mr_GaZZa, get hyperdrive to put a pressure gauge on your fuel pump and it will tell you weather it is that or not

the RE001 are the replacement line for the s03 and g3. I've only heard good things about the RE001, currently looking to upgrade to them

RE01-R and RE001 are 2 different tyres. i'm tring to find someone who can bring or does bring in the RE01-R, or if anyone know of any special on atm for the RE001, (calling Bridgestone won't help for the RE01-R as i have talk to a bridgestone dealer and they have called around for me and found out that bridgestone does not supply the RE01-R as part of their an official product line in australia) As i wont pay $300 for the RE001, when i can get import the RE01-R for similar price and they are a better tyre