Cecam

I don't think so no, it turns on at about 1500rpm and then turns back off at 5500rpm. So with it unplugged its off so cam should be in its most retarded position. I'm sure someone else can confirm or correct that.

The one with the brown plug is the VCT.

I have a friend who unplugged his VCT while on the dyno, I think the results were less lower end torque and higher top end. I can't find the scan of the printout, but they're quite a different power/torque curves.... As the VCT turns off at 5500rpm not sure why it would make more top end power thou. Perhaps revs more freely not sure. I've unplugged mine before and it was smoother the lower torque at low revs was fairly noticable.

I wouldn't rely on your rev counter too much, like the speedo they're not that accurate.

Check the net and you'll see its been done before, theres some movies around, I think it was some sort of Mazda, tried various things, eg baloons, party streamers etc, sounded quite funny. No link sorry, shouldn't be too hard to find... Btw, my stock R32 GTSt bov is like twice as loud as the my GTS25t one, same filter too, dunno why that is...

I wanted to edit that after I had posted it to clarify a few things but got 406 errors or somesuch so gave up... I'm not saying they're crap, I'm just saying I've noted that trend (compression = 4th lower)which maybe because of other factors, but seems abit too coincidental to me? My R33 is indeed stock, though I'm sure it wasn't when the previous owner had it, definately had turbo work but I can't expand on that so will leave it at that as its just surmising. The R32's I mentioned are not stock however and were running larger turbos etc and follow the 4th = lower bit. I think I have enough idea about velocities to skip putting my head out the window thanks

I'm not so sure even when stock that the factory plenum is that great, on my R33 cyl 4 has the lowest compression followed by cyl 3. Cyl 1 and 6 have the best compression. Cyl 4 is the first to detonate too. One of my R32's showed this to a lessor degree while another showed no difference, but a friends rb20det has the same results (4th lowest) and a couple of others I've tested show similar trends... I can only assume its because they run leaner? Btw, with the air pooling problem with front facing setups, why can't they be internally baffled to deflect/slow down the air to stop this pooling without buggering up overall flow?

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the speed signal might get split from the cluster and goes to the relevent ecu's (engine, auto, hicas or powersteering modual for non-hicas cars). I know when a GTS4 lost its hicas/4wd it was the speed signal that was missing, but I never actually found its source, I ended up piggy backing off ecu pin 53. R34's are definately from the ecu, but change the signal thats output from what I've heard.

Good luck, I've never seen an english manual, in fact I've never seen the jap manual either. I setup mine and a friends, but I can't remember the model number(s) off hand, but both come up with speed info first (2P / 2 pulses) and revs are 6P. Theres a few intermidate prompts, but thats for shiftlight output etc which I skip until its setup. Help any?

Good luck, I've never seen an english manual, in fact I've never seen the jap manual either. I setup mine and a friends, but I can't remember the model number(s) off hand, but both come up with speed info first (2P / 2 pulses) and revs are 6P. Theres a few intermidate prompts, but thats for shiftlight output etc which I skip until its setup. Help any?

On the PCB of the factory R33 speedo you will see a series of solder pads/jumpers, this calibrates the unit. Ie an automatic uses double the signal pulses of a manual, so take a automatic speedo (or one setup for it) and it will read half of the true speed if fitted in a manual. Don't have one in front of me, but its just a series of jumper connections on the upper left I think, each jumper is so much %, ie one jumper will add in 20kph (at what whetver hz your feeding the signal at), and the next one down will add in 10kph and next 5kph and you just jumper till its right. I assume the Nismo is the same as its basically just a new face plate and possibly geared differently, only seen a couple and that was early last year... So you can do it yourself, or pay a few $$ get someone else to do it, will only a few minutes if they know what they're doing (plus time to remove and refit if you take the car)...

Search the forum and read the several other previous threads about it? Just turn the cas anti-clockwise (a very small amount) to advance...

I don't think I've been in a Skyline that *hasn't* made a clunk from the diff of de-accel... just forget about it...

I had some limited success messing around with files, ie making the Nissan cars go into the Toyota demo and demo cars into the Nissan sim, but couldn't do anything with the tracks, but that was like two years ago and I still can't find the full version of the Toyota sim...

Directions right... anti-clockwise does indeed advance the timing...

The coils get pretty hot under that cover and probably overheat, for an R33 S2 just remove the cover, for series 1 I used one of the ignitor bolts into one of the cover bolt holes to keep that still, and same for R32's (remembering they have earth wires on the ignitor, R33's are down by the coil brackets). Appears to help some cars... sure it looks abit more ugly but the coils ain't frying anymore...

I assume you mean the U13 shape or the later U12's which also had the SR20?

I've seen some 180SX's with RB26DETT's in them, they're an easy conversion.... not sure they're worth the cost though. As for the Cefiro, get a SE4 model and keep the atessa 4wd, should be a nice sleeper.

Doesn't Aussie have any legal drift tracks or clubs at all!?!? Here in NZ theres Nizan (Drift and Drag club) which holds organised drift meets and theres also a D1NZ club which is purely for (legal) drifting which is quite popular also. Theres a few tracks too, one track ("U-Drive") reckons its had 400 street cars there last year, or they have 'buggies' (looks like offroaders with cage etc) so you try in one of their cars and not yours ($20 fee for 12 laps). So I don't think its a lack of money, probably just need some enthusiastic people who can actually organise it, drift tracks are usually fairly short compared to a proper race one shouldn't cost *too* much I would think. Doesn't have to be privately funded either, you could try the local councils too, one SouthAuckland one built a small track/burnout pad called the valodrome to get racers off the streets.

R32 coils have the carbon contact, R33 coils just have a different design spring. You shouldn't have any with a carbon contact in a R33, but I doubt the coils are actually any different anyways....

All GTS4's and GTR's have ABS. Without individual wheel speeds from the abs sensors the Attessa ain't gonna work too well if it don't know when the back wheels are turning faster than the fronts... (yes it will still work due to gforce sensors and tps/speed info etc, but not as good). ABS was optional on GTSt and seen it a few times on GTS (Type-S)'s as well. Btw, if you do buy a R32 GTS4, check the sycro's in 4th, I've before they were a weak point and when my mate looked at buying one, everyone without fail had stuffed 4th gear syncro.... I dunno why....

The older Jags (eg Xj6 S3, 1979 onwards) had this factory. Fuel lines in parallel with the aircon lines with heatwrap around them both, not sure how effective it really was, never came across a Xj6 which still had working aircon!

This site looks abit munted in Mozilla on a Linux OS... will have to stuff around with some fonts I guess... Anyways... Helping people; I jump started a car as recently as last week, and when some chick ran outta gas in the worse possible place (on a highway between motorway onramps) myself and another guy pushed her beastly Pulser out of the way (which was afarkin long distance) and then took her to petrol station and back, but would I stop if I saw a road rage type deal... no I wouldn't, but I would at least phone the cops. Hourly Rates; $40 per hour for cleaning? I think your wee bit overpriced as domestic cleaner is about $15/hr from memory, but I have made about $50/hr for car detailing... bump up ya rates and specialise R33 Interiors; I've seen one with all leather interior, and a friend started to do the white leather bit on his before he rolled it (5 or so times, ouch), I might still have afew pics around.... Age; I'm older than you all... except maybe Dan_The_Man who claims to be prehistoric

Looks pretty good Craved, I thought about respraying my R33 in a similar colour (a tad darker was my thinking) but have given that idea away, can't be assed anymore. I have prep'd a few cars for respraying, last one was a full bare metal respray that was a bitch of a job. Like you just got someone to do the final spray. Last car (Jaguar S-Type) only cost $300 ($150 for the booth/oven and $150 guy spraying it, inc the dust coat for level and masking etc), and I think paint was about $600 for a golden metallic plus clear coat... not bad as thats engine bay, inside the doors and so on...you can save a bomb doing most of it yourself... Villainous_J, what shade is imola? Theres a bright yellow R33 up the road from me and it looks like crap... maybe if it had a kit or something on it but stock (series 1) doesn't suit... I might grab a pic sometime, but I feel weird taking pics of other peoples cars

Actually, most glitches can be fixed with a soldering iron including the majority of Afm's etc.