Cecam

If you search this forum (or SDU's for that matter) you'll find quite a few threads on how much boost to run on an R33 turbo, about 12psi seems to be as high as you wanna go is the general concensious (sp?) I think. Some turbos simply last thou even at 18psi plus, where as I've seen some fail at 12psi... back pressure, heat, clogged oil or water lines, theres a few factors involved. As for setting the timing, on an R32 and possibly the (series one) R33 theres a little loop of black wire which goes into the ignition amp, this is for coil/cyl 1 and some timing lights will work off that, but its not very accurate. Removing your centre cover to get access to the coils, and then lifting coil 1 is the better way. You just put a short HT lead between the coil and spark plug and use a timing light off that. Much more accurate. Factory timing should be about 15 degrees BTDC. My first (R32) Skyline wouldn't go past this without detonating, my second R32 Skyline would run 20 degrees even at 1.1 bar without issue. What my R33 is running I have no idea as my timing light packed a sad I just turned the CAS slightly counter clockwise and listened carefully for any pinging... I'll check it properly later but the quick and nasty way is advance till you hear it ping then back it off slightly. Btw, remember to keep the coil grounded when checking the timing when using the HT lead. You will also need to unplug the TPS definately in an auto, unsure with a manual, but I think thats still the case.

How much timing you running? Ever had it checked? My stock auto was very slow and sluggish so I tried bumping up the timing a tad and it made a world of difference, not just in the feel but measurable difference (eg dropping .9 off my 0-100, probably a clean second off if I bothered to launch abit harder). Thats quite a difference... and took less than 5 minutes... or about 15 minutes if I bothered to do it right with a HT lead between the 1st coil and used a timing light...

I think its a SII turbo thing with the banjos? I know of two turbos that needed different banjos and both were series two... I assume its the series one RB25DET turbos that are a straight swap over for the RB20...

Had that problem before, twice actually now I think about it, it was the old injector loom had got brittle and some wires crapped out so the injectors only fired when you held the loom a certain way... all of the above comments should help you diagnose whats happening thou.

When I had my R32 which had a stock exhaust system (but pod filter) I played with the boost. I tried to measure reasonably accurately the effects (0-100, some 400m runs etc) and the fastest it was happy at while keeping temps reasonable was about 0.8 bar so about 11psi. More boost actually started to go backwards. I stuffed up once and let it goto 1.1bar, it was slow as thou I didn't hear it detonate suprisingly. As for my current R33, as per Rev210 ditch the two step its crap... or for a free mod just wire it so its always on asa temporary solution...

My GTS25t is completely 100% stock and I had this misfire but I had hesitation at about 4500rpm and then surging or misfire at 5500 (and audiable detonation twice). I changed the fuel pump and gave it a general service with all new filters (inc fuel, not that the plugs showed signs of leaning out but I had the pump so..) Also rebuilt the AFM and adjusted all the sensors (TPS etc) while I was at it to make sure everything was 100%. Still misfired. Retarded/Advanced timing to no effect. This is at 7psi btw on aftermarket gauge, and yes the factory one is very slow to react in comparson... Put in new (platium) plugs to replace the current coppers and the hesitation went away but not the misfire. Using another set of platiums I had to wind the gap down to 0.6mm before it went away... 0h yeah, removing the cover so the coils get some air and are alot cooler has helped slightly too... yet the coils appear to check out fine... Will wind some boost into it later when the exhaust etc is done and see if the problem returns again. I suspect it will... Btw, I don't think it misfired when I unplugged VCT once...

The hicas steering wheel angle sensor is in ya steering wheel, well, just behind it... check that out first...

I had about 4 laying around at one stage, and out of interest I tried them all quickly on a known weak station. Some are much better than others... also some improve by grounding the case which helps kill off some of the noise... All reduce the signal though, and most also don't tend to the have the Nissan duel (diversity) plug on them either... Just throw in a decent stereo, will sound soooo much nicer.

Advancing the timing will not effect the idle that much. If it was detonating at idle, you would hear it... Sounds more like you got an airleak, before you take it back, you could spend a few minutes checking all the clamps are tight as they would of dissconnected a few pipes getting at the plugs. Also, the plugs might not of been gapped properly which can cause an irratic idle and misfire. If theres nothing obvious, take it back.... But I doubt its to do with advancing the timing...

You should be able to advance the timing a reasonable amount before you get any detonation, and timing can and will make the car sluggish if its been retarded for any reason. Just remember to advance it in small steps. Large intestine? Ummm.. not that I'm aware of, its just something different...

None at all. Factory box with paper filter and full factory exhaust (except the cat got gutted when it expired). I've had people comment it was fairly fast for a stocker as it averaged 15.5@150Kph, (and 15.3@153 at 0.8bar (small bleed valve), it actually went slower with more boost, logical with the restrictive exhaust/intake) . But I just thought it was kinda average?? Btw, I sold it now have a R33 GTS25t auto, and the suckers slower.. 7.5s to the 100... somethings wrong...

Just something about Mines Ecus, I know a few people who had problems with them, all R32's thou. Cars ran like crap or just died all together. Signals started to weird, eg rev counter (ecu driven) would go erractic etc. Never heard of an R33 giving problems thou, so hopefully it will last for you. As for finds, bendi-rachet type screw driver kit, towels (even one in my door?!?, spanners, cd's, magnetic card for a Japanese Pizza place and even once in my sisters car a new jap gold credit card... 0h yeah, mine had what looked a student id card (or some id with photo) as well. Geeze they left alot of crap in mine...

Have you checked your timing? Advancing it helped alot with my old R32 auto GTSt. Mine had 225/50 FM901's and would wheel spin on launch easy enough... btw, whats it do 0-100? Mine dead stock was circa 6.6, with zorst you should be able to better that if its in good health, might help pinpoint if your down on power or not. They're alot more responsive down low, lots more pull...

The hicas light is usually the first to come on when theres low voltage, which may make it also sulk and go into diags, which makes the rears move. This is can be felt through the steering wheel and will twitch left and right every couple of seconds. When you sort out your electrics, I think you'll find your hicas will be fine... As above, check your alternator and earths first...

The intake manifold is different, apart from that, theres not much else thats physically different between the red top and silver top at a glance.

The O2 wires are feed from and go direct to the ecu. Theres a 12V feed and ground, plus signal, so the ecu was shorted out. Thats what the main 'Engine Control' fuse protects, lucky it didn't fry your ecu...

I have been looking at R32 wrecks lately, one of which had the roof cut off, I was opening/closing the doors and putting weight in the middle by the B pillar (four door) to see how much it sagged, and suprisingly it didn't seem to at all. It did twist pretty bad thou, but not enough to jamb the doors, so I think only minor strengthing would be involved. I imagine a coupe would be stiffer than a four door, so would have even less flex....

They're the standard issue lights, 'bug eyes' were actually options. You'll find the normal lights mostly on sedans and lower spec (GXi, GTE, GTS) cars. Both my Skylines have had them.. I think its because the higher spec'd cars are the ones that get imported, you see the optional lights more than the base spec.