Adrian Knack

Make: Nissan Model: S13 Silvia Milage: 136,000 Transmission: 5 Speed Manual Colour: Black Location: Townsville QLD Complied? Yes RWC supplied? Yes Currently registered? Yes Price: $11,000 ONO Contact: 0402 126 300 Comments / Modifications: Hi all, After about 5 years and 40000km I'm selling my Silvia for something newer. It is in good condition inside and out as you'll see in the pictures. Mechanically it is also all good. Never been raced, dragged or drifted. Heaps of fun to drive, looks nice on the 57S wheels and I'm pretty sure fine for anyone on their Ps. Mods/Features include Wheels: Gram Light 57S 17" mags (7.5" Front, 8.5" Rear) Tyres: Michelin Pilot Preceda (near new, 215 front, 235 rear) Exhaust: 4-1 Extractors 2.5" Stainless Steel Exhaust (with sports muffler and twin-tips) Handling: D2 coilovers (5kg front, 3.5kg rear) S13 turbo front brakes Cusco Strut Brace LSD Interior: Fusion Power Plant 6x9 rear and 6.5" splits front Pioneer head unit Window Tint Alarm: Black Widow (3 point immobiliser, remote central locking) Images: Exterior: Interior:

Well the Bilsteins in the new MX-5 are firm but comfortable. OK its a different car... much lighter... but I think the dampers are an equivalent model. I found there was a run in period, but I think it is similar for all dampers...

Mine took about 500km to work in nicely - before that they were a bit bouncy. I recommend a long drive on the highway. I'm running slightly lighter than the standard springs and have 1.5turns on the front and 2turns on the back - works nicely for me. Cheers, Adrian

I've got a set in my Silvia and they are so much better than stock suspension. Car sits nice and flat through the corners and feels sharper. For me it was a good choice. The D2s come in different sprin rates and different oil/gas and valving setups for Street, Track, Drift and Rally... I went with the streets and went 2kg lighter than the "standard" because NQ roads are not the best in some places... You would probably go harder springs and the correct type if you were going to use them for drift/circuit or rally (probably not in an skylines...). Have a chat to your provider and they will get you the right stuff. Or have a look at the D2 website for all the details so you know what is available and what they say is standard for your car. Cheers Adrian PS. Mine took about 500km to run in nicely. Before that they felt very hard and bouncy. Afterwards they were/are great.

In the Michelin range there is a Pilot Preceda which is between the Sport and the Primacy in performance but less expensive than the Sport. This is what I went with on my Silvia - but I am not pushing anywhere near your power. Toyo T1-R has also been very popular. Happy tyre shopping

Thanks hrd-hr30

Hey djr81, This may have been covered already (but I didn't see it in my quick skim read) but you say you have the REAR: Full Hard FRONT: Full Soft Which I would say would promote understeer... I was under the impression that to promote a more neutral feel or even oversteer you need to set the FRONT to full hard and the REAR to full soft. You can then modify modify them a touch to get your prefered handling characteristic. Now I might have this completely wrong (in which case someone can tell me how the theory works...) or you might have made a typo... but anyway just my thoughts.

Usually you can work out with the seller who will take the car to the mechanic of your choice. For me the seller usually takes it and then I go in a take to the mechanic about the car. But it depends on the seller and if they are happy to give you the car. For me it is better if they do the leg work

Also ask them how long the car has been on the floor. Usually they want to move them within a couple of months - as the car nears that age you can generally bargin a better price - although with new cars it is easier. If you buy privately make sure you get a mechanical inspection done by somebody you trust and not just the RWC.

Porsche 911 Turbo McLaren F1 - I actually like the GT version of this car best Porsche GT3 Viper GTS - coupe version RX8 RX7 Evo IX Koenigsegg CCR R34 GTR AMG E55 M5 XR8 I can't see when I would get time to drive all these cars though... If I could have just one though... I would be hard pressed between the Porsche line up... I doubt I'll get the chance to choose so it doesn't matter.

Maybe the castor and camber setting is too agressive? I don't get shakes or anything in my Silvia but I do notice it tends to follow the camber of the road more than it used to. It sits perfectly straight on a flat road though.

Hey mate, The more extra feeling is normal due to the solid linkage rather than the old bushes. I notice it in my Silvia too. Steering vibrations are usually due to a wheel balance issue. Did you get the wheels balanced when you had the alignment done? If not it is probably worth while or get them to check it again anyway. If you tell them that it is not right at highway speeds they generally just do it again for you. Cheers, Adrian

I was under the impression that the Falken are directional so you will only be able to go front to back (not side to side) The Dragon's are non-directional so you can move them anywhere - the outside of the tyre will always remain the outside of the tyre so the asymetry doesn't matter. But I have no experiance driving on either tyre. I've been looking recently and decided on the Pilot Preceda from Michelin for my S13. Cheers Adrian

Check out the JDM Imports website - Charles might have something 2nd hand in the size and price you are looking for. Save up and keep looking for something you will be happy with - otherwise you will waant to change them again down the track.

In case you guys have not found this website check it out for the Endless range http://www.centraxauto.com.au/Endless/brake-pads.htm I have not used Endless pads but I am interested in seeing your responses because I am looking at something for my S13 Silvia. At the moment people seem to be choosing Bendix Ultimates, RB74s and some Endless VN8500 and NA-Y or SSY for street use and maybe some track. thanks for the input so far

But can you really "set and forget"? I am still not sure that is true. I still would have thought your pressures would drop over time like with regular air - maybe not as fast due to less H2O gas. But I agree with your experiances at the race track SK because it matchs up with the physics.

But does it work? Have your pressures changed? Could you please do a measure now and post what pressure you put in, what it is now and the time frame? I am currious to see if this actually works or not.

I think with coilovers you can go up to 2kg lighter than the recommended. At least that is what I am doing with my Silvia - which is 100% a street car and I think the softer springs will absorb the NQ roads better and not make the car "skip". SK in this forum always gives good advice though so he might have some specific weights for you.

The increased temperature just means the molecules will move about faster and with more energy, which equates to a rise in pressure. You are not actually spliting the H20. PV = MrT is the equation P = Pressure, V = Volume, M = Molecules, T = Temp. and r is a constant. From my understanding having N2 filled tyres only makes pressure more predictable and less changing under temperature changes. I have seen you can get it for road tyres now but can't see the value. Particularly at $9 a corner...

Should you use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts again so as not to over tighten? Or do you just go as strong as possible?

I don't suppose somebody could meaure a set of stock S13 Silvia springs for me? I am just currious to know what the stock rating is. I am about 15000miles from my car at the moment and can't seem to see the springs Thanks guys! Adrian

LOL sorry - must have missunderstod... If you got the money then go the jap rims I did

Ok I don't know the weights with tyres but this site has the wheel you are looking at. http://www.wheelweights.net/ This wheel is about 9kg (ish) - could only find the weight of the 18x7.5 which is 22.3lbs... so I just reduced it a bit. This is a great looking wheel!!! And a great price!!! The 15" S14 wheel is about 7.9kg... but obviosuly there is alot more rubber attached when you put tyres on. If you take a look at the more expensive Jap stuff, eg. Gram Lights 57S in the same size (17x7.5) it is 7kg (ish). Also a cast wheel (unless you go for the PRO version) and costs about $500 or so each wheel. So you basically pay for the weight reduction. Maybe they are stronger but I don't think you sound like the person that is taking his skyline to the track... Hope this helps Cheers Adrian

I'll second that - I just ordered some rims for Charles at JDM Imports. Excellent service!

Just a quick comment - because I think ^^^^ has given you a good option, but super low springs are usually "show items" in the King Spring range (according to the website). They recommend for best performance just going to Low springs (20-30mm lower than stock) for performance. Anyway just something to think about. You should also look at the spring rates and try to find matched dampers or shocks. Cheers Adrian PS. just going off things I have read lately - I just ordered some D2 coilovers for my silvia but with 5.5kg front and 3.5kg rear (2kg lighter than norm) spring ratings specifically for Townsville conditions which are much the same as cairns.