negativecamber

at the back of the inlet plenum is a phillips head screw facing the drivers side front guard, screw it in or out while idling and you will hear the change in revs.

got it all done now, just kept the 4 gauge wire for the power, used a 2 gauge for the earthing and got a 150amp fuse and holder from jaycar for $50 it all works fine now.

what size cable are you running mate?

what should it be to be safe? am i just checking to make sure it hasn't dropped too much? sorry for the noob questions but these things weren't in the relocation articles.

when we started it with no fuse, the 4 gauge was enough to get 12.x volts on acc and to start the car so i dont think i'll need to get a bigger gauge cable yet. i dont like wastin money on things i just paid for the only place i think my power cable could get damaged is the firewall, there is no grommet there anymore.

i have dealt with them in the past. i purchased s trut brace and coil packs off them. troy is the owners name and he is a very helpful guy. i thinks its his brother who does the mechanical work too. i reccomend them

hey all i am half way through a battery relocation in my s13 and after reading about 4 different forum articles i am hitting a wall. i read that its best to use a fuse on the power cable (car stereo amp type), and have it as close to the terminal as possible. i have done this but it keeps on blowing as soon as i try and start the car. the acc is fine but the starting blows it. the fuses i got are 50amp rated and 60 is the biggest i could see in the shop. somebody has told me that the starter motor can draw anywhere from 100-200 amps during startup, but i havent seen a fuse big enough for that. we tried to start the car with no fuse and it started no troubles. i am just concerned about a short or a fire if i run the battery with no fuse. do many people here have fuses on their boot relocations? FYI i have a 4 gauge cable for the power cable and a 6 gauge for the grounding in the boot.

price drop to $150 please reply via email to [email protected]

hey all i have my RB20DET (late model) stock turbo for sale. 110,000klm's it has been running fine with no dramas, has next to no shaft play. it has the RB25 actuator on it so it you want to go above 7 PSI you'll need to have a bleed valve. its mechanically very good, only reason for cheap is because when i pulled it off my car i noticed a weird weld mark. it obviously didn't affect the turbo, its just cosmetic. located in brisbane southside, pick up pref. price: $200 ono. here's a pic of the weld mark. the rest looks like a turbo, but pics can be arranged if need be. cheers p.s. i will clean it if you buy it but i'd rather leave it dirty now so you can see that there was no oil leaks etc for yourself. scotty

does this come with hoses or just the bracket? and the picture is useless man, its a bit too small to see what it is. lol

jesus christ how old are ou boostin 180? you sound like some immature wanker. how much was it to pay at the drift day?

i have the passenger headlight mate. please email me on [email protected] and i can send pics/price etc. i'll give you a good price. scotty

hey guys and gals, i need an RB20DET coilpack. i can pick up if you are in brisbane. cheers scotty

lol that was what i was like too, i was like: "hey cool i sound like a modded WRX!" then i started driving like miss daisy and worrying about it hahahah but i enjoyed the sound but not the rumble through the car etc. i will try to suss out the coil packs on the weekend, and get back to you's!

will a dud coil pack come and go though? cause today the problem seemed not existent. but i bet it'll go on the weekend again. also just noticed my clutch is starting to get very slippery, so thats more money i have to spend. is the RB sound really worth it in the end??? i'm thinking maybe an SR would have been the better option

cheers guys again and i might check the large joiner rubber bit that links the throttle body with the cross over piping.

thank you for your helpfull insights guys

hey people i need some advice, i have a rb20det 5 spd in my S13 silvia.... tonight all of a sudden it started rumbling and it sounded exactly like a WRX boxer engine. it was making normal boost levels but the power felt lower and it was very lumpy!!!! i pulled over and had a look under the bonnet, when i gave the throttle a little twist, i could hear a sound like a hiss. i couldn't destinguish if it was an air leak or if it was like a squirting sound. (if you understand me?) but the sound was around the top of the engine where the intake pipe meets the throttle body. is this a common problem some people have heard? or will it be something to go see a doctor about??? after i stopped after and turned off the engine for 30 mins it was fine again. then it happened for about 5 minutes while driving home. what is thisssssss????? any help would be appreciated.

hey guys and gals i have these parts left over from my R32 half cut. 1 x Speedo cluster EC with 100786 klm's on the clock $90 1 x analog climate control unit EC without looms. $40 1 x left hand side headlight with globes, GC apart from a stone chip (see pics below) $90 prices are negotiable, postage is paid by the buyer. please PM me with any questions, i can arrange for higher detailed pictures if needed. or email me at [email protected]

before you bag the name, just try JB HI-FI at indooroopilly. speak to crispian, he's very good and will do you a deal if you mention me or www.nissanlsilvia.com. he knows he has the JB HI-FI shadow over his head but his work is excellent.

have you had any feedback or have any info on the accuracy of these guages? like is 8psi really 8psi? or is it like 7 or 9? i have seen some other cheapies that weren't too accurate thats all.

pic of centre gauge cluster please [email protected] if possible, may i have a front and back pic?

i might have one but you'll have to wait till easter is over. i have a R32 halfcut at the workshop that i am using for a engine/gearbox conversion. i'll be selling the bits i can from the interior. not sure on the condition yet but when i pick up my car (maybe 29th/30th) i can pull bits off it for you. cross your fingers that its okay!!!

whats the ml's? 500ml 600ml 800ml??? just comparing it to NEWKON.biz's range. buying locally is easier.

the R32 half cut = $2000 hybrid copy intercooler + piping $530 SR20 front brakes = $100 complete workshop charge (engine, wiring, exhaust hooking up, front brake change, intercooler mounting + manual conversion included) = $1500 - 1600 i get the car back anyday now, (closed for easter)