Edge

oh yeah my battery is in the front - best you follow instructions as craved pointed out if your battery is in the boot.

hook up positive to positive terminals on battery first so it will not make a spark - most sparks will come from the positive terminal! then hook wire from the negative to negative terminal. Negative almost never gives sparks. hooking to the engine gives a shorter circuit to the fresh battery. So as to bypass the flat one initally. However if you hook it up for 30 seconds direct to battery terminals before trying to start it will work fine. If you are worried about damage it is because some of the French cars are not very electrical fluctuation tolerant. This is not a problem with Skylines. Finally the batteries themselves provide capacitance and particularly the flat one will need a short time (about 30 seconds) to recharge before you crank. When doing a jump start you should have the other cars engine running while the batteries are connected. This helps to keep the voltage stable under load especially the flat battery needing to come up to capacitance - it also prevents the other cars battery becoming flat while you crank the dead one. If you are paranoid about damage you can get surge protected jumper leads. In any case I recommend you buy at least 200amp leads with good quality copper wire and copper aligator clamps. Check the conductivity of any old leads you have with an ohm metre before you actually need them. Since you can buy top quality jumper leads at a variety shop for about $7. I got a set of 400amp full stranded twisted copper for that price that are very flexible and nice to keep next to the jack. It would be a good idea to get some new ones. Then you can jump start everyone else

should not be a problem for high rpm dumps with gtst. the main difference will be the mesh will happen at lower rpm in a harder fashion. 4wd clutches clamp real hard at all rpm's and is effectively just like dumping them. Just try driving one - its designed to be either on or off. So it is not designed to be driven while riding the clutch - thats all. If you take off with riding the slipping clutch all the time this clutch is not for you. If you are either going to dump the clutch or let the clutch fully engage before accelerating it is perfect. It comes down to this - are you able to engage the clutch before accelerating or do you have to slip it to get up to 2000rpm so you can then fully engage. This is a question I don't know the answer to as I have yet to convert mine from auto. So someone tell me what rpm do you fully engage the clutch and do you have to let it slip to get up to that speed? The answer is... If you can either dump the clutch or let the clutch fully engage before bashing the accelerator on it is perfect. If you have to let it slip a lot then stay away from 4wd clutch as they get hot real quick due to the compound being designed for low slippage. By hot I mean they smell and get spongy.

If you have already been listed as a driver on your parents insurance last year then you should have a NCB rating.

It looks like premiums are coming down because of easier supply of parts from Nissan. They informed me that they are happy to deal with import owners now and can get original everything. I can remember when even asking for an oil filter and a washer for the oil sump plug took an hour and a half while they worked out which part number you needed and served everyone else first. Now the process of getting these parts only takes 1 minute and is very informative with regards to other parts you can get that you thought were out of reach. This sort of service makes all Nissans in general more attractive, as the Nissan imports reputation can now be added to the Nissan Australia stable.

it is the same risk at the track to both driver and spectator as if there are any spectators that can't see night racing is happening and choose to attend at their own risk what are they doing in an industrial zone at 00:00-2:00hours anyway? The police should turn a blind eye to responsible behaviour such as night racing in a industrial as opposed to a residential zone. Or at least to a non built up area until such time as there is a race track that opens at night.

Yeah they should have the race track open more so I can go there whenever I want to drive fast at night. NIGHT RACING YEAH!!! failing that get organised - where is the underground? what happened to the good old days when the oldies scanned the police? Maybe set up our own network of citywide cameras and call it a public service where we can monitor the traffic too. be like the bike gangs - thats why they have noise exemptions, leaned on the right people. In their case it was very clear cut, every-one of those bikes is noisy. If they keep persecuting drivers who go to night time racing so that it is safer for the public - they will end up with more daytime racing and - people driving so crazy and killing themselves because they know the cops are going to take away their $70,000 car, their hobby, their life, and they can't get the money back - might as well go fighting the corrupt gov't system like Ned Kelly. people take out a police car when you go so that the police get the blame. Just ram and destroy the police cars so they don't bother coming to night racing again. police are members of society too - start making police friends so you know when the raid are. disclaimer: this is an artistic expression of feelings not a inducement to commit crime ok people.

open up a racing suburb where the law says we can race all night.

Even if I opened a farm to racing, I'd probably get sued when someone gets hurt. Is there a way everyone can sign disclaimers for farm racing?

find out where those disrespecting cops who think we should race during the day live.

get organised - where is the underground? what happened to the good old days when the oldies scanned the police? Maybe set up our own network of citywide cameras and call it a public service where we can monitor the traffic too.

Yeah they should have the race track open more so I can go there whenever I want to drive fast. get organised - where is the underground? what happened to the good old days when the oldies scanned the police? Maybe set up our own network of citywide cameras and call it a public service where we can monitor the traffic too. find out where those disrespecting cops who think we should race during the day live. Even if I opened a farm to racing, I'd probably get sued when someone gets hurt. Is there a way everyone can sign disclaimers for farm racing? open up a racing suburb where the law says we can race all night.

edit Yes it will hold; but, using one wheel chock is intended for a single tyre change situation and it is specified with the handbrake on! If you purposely intend to do more such as release the handbrake or lift two wheels at the same time you should chock all the wheels.

ok hand written it is. whoops zsky THANKS FOR THE INFO ON THE FORM REQUIRED As it will be needed so they don't dismiss my handwritten letter based on not having used the correct form. It is a bit like voting and using ticks instead of crosses in the boxes as specified and then not having your vote counted on a technicality. edit - I just finished my handwritten submission using the correct form zsky has provided. I have put it in a business DL size envelope and hand addressed it to Mr Ross Docherty at D.O.T.A.R.S. to be mailed on Monday morning inside a certified delivery envelope. Having these cars available to push lower quality cars at the same price off the road will doubtless save many Australian lives and possibly even my own. And that is worth more than the postage money.

4 hours of freeway driving does make tyres very hot! Well maybe the ABS sensors have become dirty then. Where are they how do I clean them? Did I mention that it looked like the hole was made by running the pipe between a bicycle centre cog with the chain over it. The tap was just above it, with a puddle of water under it.

standard one thats what they look like black rubber - inside is the oil gel. If they arn't cracked why did you buy new ones?

Japan shaken is actually about the same price as NSW registration costs if you consider 2 years shaken is the same as 2 years of registration in NSW. So that debunks the theory of being taxed off the road. The cars are simply better quality there than here - and for the price of 15yo cars they are taking the place of even older and lower quality australian cars at the same price. Pushing the rust buckets into the grave. Imported cars have to be in good condition and meet Australian standards. NOT trying to get around SEVS but trying to get better quality safer cars at cheaper endof market. Its for the consumers benefit, not the car manufacturers. The shaken system in Japan simply makes replacement of faulty and damaged parts mandatory requirement for registration. Therefore the quality of these cars is maintained better than Australia. Now if you have such a system of high standards here it would put transport costs up even further for the battlers of Australia, a political no no. Why then are they trying to prevent battlers from getting quality cars at cheaper prices instead of requiring higher standards since the argument is aging cars and safety? As for asbestos brake pads - they get changed to Australian standard when they get complied! How hard is that? So the MTA is motivated by the manufacturers who want to force us to buy their cars new at high prices. IT IS PROTECTIONISM The ridiculous thing is they then try to tell us we are buying 15 year old cars as direct replacements for new ones by saying we are trying to get around SEVS which is also trying to get around buying Aussie manufacturers new cars? They are taking it too far. They are scared the 15yo R32 is so good that they need to stop imports of it so that new cars will sell! These cars are not replacements for new cars, they are replacement for second hand ones! Tell them to use common sense. They are certainly gloating over the reduction of newer imports. It is nothing to do with standards at all! We need to take a different view of imports over 15 yo and market them as quality replacements of rust buckets to the battlers of Australia and make it political. Of course that would still let us do up our cars much nicer than them so we can still be elite. Perhaps some of the importers can send out a letterbox drop advertising import high quality and safety 15yo cars with a camparison of features for your $ compared to australian rust bucket cars available at comparable prices. Just think how many you'd sell. Those importers can also still run seperate enthusiasts advertising - say in magazines. Industry representation for 15 yo importers as a group. It hasn't been around very long, but 15yo importers could make an industry representation NonGovernmentOrganisation. Please do it for the safety and better cars for the battlers of Australia. This body could take up their issue with MP's in places like Western Sydney, where it could become a political issue during elections.

Is Japan much better? Are protests a commonplace thing there? Does the government listen? Something I always wanted to know, what are the taxes like there?

In answer to your question the way you originally put it - you will need a 2ohm rated amp to run two 4ohm subs wired in parallel. if you run the wires the way I suggeted earlier you will have 4ohms per sub but only half the power. You can bridge the outputs on the amp by putting a total two wires - one in the first positive and one in the last negative. This gives you twice the power. If you are buying subs for this it would be better to buy two 8ohm subs and wire them in parallel so that you have 4ohms altogether to run with this. If you put two 4 ohm subs in parallel by wiring the subs with the negative-negative and positive-positive connected to each other then to the the enclosure terminals. You would have 2ohms altogether and twice the watts. The important thing is to check what the amp is rated at. Just make sure it matches check both the watts rating and the ohms specification of the amp. JBhifi would explain it to you as part of their sales. Also you may be better off getting a single 2ohm dual voice coil in series which gives you 4ohms and better quality sound.

ok drove it today and the pressure in two of the tyres that had the most water went up to 58psi! - started out at 43 The car did feel slippery just before I checked the pressures. So I let the pressure back down to 43 - but this is hot pressure. The other two tyres were still 43. I will check tomorrow morning when the tyres are cold. HELP! During the drive this afternoon my ABS light came on! It went off after a restart for a few minutes the first time but now it comes on everytime! lights up as soon as the car moves 20cm after starting. What do I need to do to fix it? The ABS warning light coming on seems to affect how the auto gears change? Because the gears worked perfectly all morning! Kept me in low gears properly. However once the ABS light came on it seems to be in too high gear all the time again! Background: using ltx-12 microtech + original series 2 auto computer. I drove 80km today.The first 50km went with the car working perfectly with the auto keeping in the correct low gear all morning - I just changed the oil to redline 10w40 synthetic last night and it is absolutely the best! You can smell the unburnt fuel - my car is running very rich - particularly noticeable when the car is hot and I let it cool down the turbo for a minute before switching it off. I'm going to change my radiator water tomorrow and put water wetter in it. I get the feeling my car is running too hot despite the rich fuel as it feels a little rough when boosting real hard on the last 5 km stretch just before I get home, feels as if you can feel all the cylinders firing in a very big engine. I am going to get an exhaust cam adjustable wheel and get it retuned with a cam/timing belt change soon. First though I need to get this ABS issue sorted as it seems to be stuffing up the auto. I just had a thought - getting into auto diagnostics mode, maybe I have to be in normal autotrans mode and not in power mode to get into it? I will try to do it again tomorrow. It is amazing just how hot the brakes and wheels get. They really feel like they are giant radiators, when you go to pump the tyres you don't want to touch the wheels because they are quite hot to touch. I noticed what looked like steam was coming off the tread surface of my front left tyre. It was a hot dry day and I can only surmise that at 58 psi and hot the rubber was vaporising, because as someone mentioned above - the steam can't get out through the rubber... can it? Pirelli PZero tyres. Wreckedhead - The max rated pressure for these tyres is 59psi so it got dangerously close - particularly as I started out with 43psi - and handling became skittish and ABS have stuffed up - probably due to tyre size imbalance. You could see the tyres with water were bulging in the middle!

hmmm - if it evaporates out of the tyre that would be fine - I'm just worried about safety. I guess I'll check it after a half hour drive tomorrow morning and see what pressure it gets up to before I bother the service station.

some kids vandalized my local service station air hose. Punctured it with a bike sproket. Then filled the hose up with water. Only realised when I got to my third tyre and water suddenly breached the hole in the pipe and I got wet! How dangerous is a couple of table spoons of water in my tyres at 200kph? I'm going to get the petrol station to get someone to take my tyres off and dry the interiors, but I have been told to come back at 8:00am in the morning to talk to the owner. If they don't remove the water - should I sue them?

I can't get into diagnostics mode for the auto. I'm sure I followed the procedures. I'm running a microtech lt-12 on a series 2 r33 auto. While it works fine when cold - as soon as it warms up the auto refuses to drop into first gear unless from a full stop, or I select it manually. Refuses to do kickdown reliably, it does kick down but not far enough. It always wants to run in 4th gear as well at low speeds. Seems like its always one gear two high. I wonder if I need a series 1 auto computer? Also on reading this thread - it seems I need to splice some wires, I havn't spliced anything and been running for 2 months now. I'll need to get more info on how to do this splicing.

Trust33 Have one set of rcas to go from head unit to input of monoblock amp. The monoblock amp ussually has screw connectors with place to wire both speakers using screws to make connection to the wires. 4 wires can be screwed into the amp in total then 2 wires to each sub.

Thanks - thats what I did and wasn't sure if a capacitor was needed as well. I got a 1100 CCA battery with 70Ah rating to run with my system. I will be testing my alternator as well - know the best way to do this? Also I am planning to move the battery to the boot this week as I have heard it is better closer to the amp - would this be right? I am currently sourcing vent pipes and 2ga wiring for it. yep... R33 4dr series 2 has battery under bonnet.