Edge

Nav2k how important is having the capacitor? What equipment is it meant to protect - do skylines really need it. I would have thought the battery acts as a capacitor to some extent. Does the 1F cap stop voltages going up and down such as when starting? Or is it merely there for sound quality?

In case you didn't get that here is the correct statement Monoblock amp rated @4ohms 1000watts then 2 x4ohm subs =gives you> 2ohms and 2000w you can also buy 8ohm subs and put two of these together to give you 4ohms.

You can go to supercheap auto too and order it in. The aerpro doubble diversity adapter works really well. The antenna you still get to control with the switch near your steering wheel. The quality is beut - There really is no problem with the height of the antenna - it is merely optimised for stronger signals like in built up areas in Japan. When in area with a normal signal just put the antenna up and hey presto good reception. You know the antenna is mounted on a slant - its good for high speed, mine still perfectly straight. You know if you make the antenna longer it doesn't reduce its fm capability only makes it better. The frequency wavelength should be your guide. To give you an idea 104.9MHz is 1.2 metres size wave so if you want perfect reception make your antenna 1.2 metres long. Understand this - The smaller the number MHz the bigger the size of the radio wave. In theory this means you should use even longer antennas. However you will find the shorter antenna is able to take the sum of two halves or in the case of the skyline one the sum of three thirds - bits of the parts of the wave are summed to gether when the signal is strong enough and transmit the whole signal through it. In short the antenna is perfectly fine the way it is. Most other cars usually have to put the antenna up for weaker fm signals anyway. The difference is that the antenna is usually 0.5m long on the shorter setting realising the radio signals are weaker in general here they have made it about a half the shortest amplitude instead of a third. Hope that helps.

intergoolerguy above posted you can call 0413 971 347

What was it over the pits for in the first place? Were these compliance engineers? In other words; where can I go to get a cert if I put a gauge on?

Do you mean into a 1/2 din pocket or the ashtray? - door on it?

heads up display

My pads didn't squeal until I had rear camber adjusters put in and the mechanic got the grease on the rear right brake disc. The front right brake now squeals. I think it got overheated having to cope with more braking as a result, probably just need right front machined again. When I very very lightly touch the brakes the squeal is intermittent as the wheel turns it is only in one spot. Uneven disc? Perhaps carbonite build up? Can you see carbonite build up? Would it be advisable to try putting some grease into the shims first or go straight for disc machining? Would the grease on rear right disc wear off or will I need to use some brake cleaner or something to make sure it doesn't come back? RB74's are very abrasive. 5 times as much I am told to Galver 1105's which stop real well, much better than ultimates. Utimates are very very dirty and sqeal like a freight train, went deaf for a day due to the noise after 5 hours of driving, and to keep your wheels clean with Ultimates requires washing every day instead of once a week.

I've asked someone and the only way you can know the base timing is to look at it on the engine. It is just a little hard to start and with readings of 10deg on initial start and idle it seems suspect to me. 666DAN - I will find out exactly once I have it rutuned full matrix mode. For 12.0 on full boost and 14.5 off boost. This should fix my fuel economy.

where do you buy a full set of doubble shims?

what sort of A/F ratio should it be on low load and cruise throttle?

base timing for S2 R33 is 20deg though isn't it? regardless isn't the microtech supposed to read higher than 10deg at idle then? What I'm asking is - am I correct in assuming that you measure base timing at idle and that the microtech should show the same on its readings? I'm may have to get it retuned with the base timing advanced?

Would any of this cause my fuel economy to be like this: 22L/100km when gentle driving for tank and 16L/100km when I hammer it for a full tank. Also something else prominent - when I hit 7000 rpm and let go the accelerator, it stalls.

who has a microtech LT-12 What is base timing for R33 series 2 - isn't it 20deg measured at idle? Could you take a look at the log of timing position and tell me what your idle ignition timing is set at? I read that the timing is meant to be 20deg in idle in neutral on the standard computer? Shouldn't it be the same on LT-12? On the microtech data logging screen, mine reads 10deg at idle in neutral. Is this indicative of incorrect base timing? Also isn't the TPS supposed to go all the way to 100% - mine only goes to 99% and I wonder if this could be the cause of a lack of extra kickdown when the pedal hits the metal for the auto trans. Does TPS wire go directly to the auto box? (don't have a w/shop manual to check) Could calibration of the TPS have to be done specially for the auto subcomp as well? Maybe this is the reason that while the auto box works it doesn't work quite as well.

yeah right - you can't put it out! What are the active ingredients?

I didn't know you could wash the boot carpet in the washing machine - wouldn't it fall apart and go all fluffy in there?

thanks - i was too busy to check or even read this full thread past the first page - in fact I didn't read the recommended article until after i wrote my above posts, because I couldn't wait to say something. you have enlightened me.

Oh and another thing - the increased cost of spare parts when they stop the 15 y/o rule will make your car depreciate even faster!!! Cause even minor repairs will cost the earth!

Why are Aussie cars so expensive? For half the money you can get the same quality and performance as an Aussie car by getting a skyline! keep the price down as much as possible or you'll be paying more for lower quality and performance!

Before you all make up you r mind you may want to note that they are trying to stop all imports!!! The reason they made 15y/o rule was to make the RAWS vs old SEVS more acceptable! It is ALL SO THE CAR MANUFACTURERS HERE IN AUS CAN SELL MORE EXPENSIVE CARS - definately not for the consumer benefit. And if anyone should think that cars, especially imports will or should not depreciate you are dreaming, they are cars and they wear out very quickly if you haven't noticed you had better realise you chassis is fatiquing over time even if you've been repainting it every year and only drive it gently the engine is still wearing out due to combustion acids. You'll eventually crash your car and when you do you'll kick yourself for supporting a system that makes aussie cars more expensive, cause they are all you can get, with the cost of imports being boosted throught the roof by compliance costs! Note the compliance costs are already more expensive under RAWS. I love my car and its go nothing to do with resale value only the price at which I can buy one. If you want something expensive, go try buy this years model. Or try and import a really rare car, I think you'll find the compliance costs are even worse! Better start realising that if you want to scrap the 15yo rule and for increased compliance costs (100 limit RAWS) you are arguing for ALL cars to be more expensive. I for one like having lots of alternatives when it comes to getting spare parts or cheap cars!

I wonder how long those flares actually are still able to work for - I got one too. Past its official safety use by date though. Why oh why can't I buy replacements? I reakon its the fear of bush fires started by flares. But it would be far better if I had a new one in the car instead of an old one that might not work when that train is coming toward me out in the country. Yes, I've seen a train run into a car in front of me when I was visiting Qld.

probably certification tag for repairs really no idea. try posting a pic of it on here - someone might translate it for you.

hmm I didn't find any hair, just moisturising cream on the door carpet trim near the inside handle, and fingernail scratch marks on the external door handle sockets. Very clean woman. Japanese money smells nice like The air filter was black with cigarette smoke but the car didn't have a speck of dust in it. Those air filters work really really well. Smells real nice. The BP ultimate keeps perfuming the car too

hey he probably wanted you to find that cause it was confiscated cause he lost his licence and wants new owner to contact him so that he can tell you the story and get a reminiscient ride in the car.

First thing I did was check for any stuff in my car - found 10,000 JPY in drivers door. In passenger door pocket found a neatly folded plastic bag from a convenience store - assume it was a vomit bag. In the boot found sunglasses case. Chewing gum Brown Leaves Dead Insects I found a tape of love songs obviously made for the wife/new owner of the car who got it dated '96 and was somewhere up under the boot pannels - appeared in the boot out after I did some hard driving Most of it was in English language. oh yeah and a cigarette lighter