Edge

yeah i mean the front side wall - how did you fix it there and can it be sealed around the edges in that position?

how did you fix that sheet of metal at the bottom of the rear window? Is it sealed around the edges?

hehe - to the belts reminds me of my old car. I drove it so hard the tyres were completely slicks and they DID have more grip on the street. Particularly as because they were worn to slicks with the belts showing through. I didn't care and pumped the pressure to 50 psi. Only got new tyres for it when I started to get scared they might blow out.

mupkant - what did they use to cut the metal ignition key? Just as well you had a good alarm. How much will it cost to fix it?

51 psi is what it says on the sidewall

I do - you want for $50 + postage?

Do you still have the plug or loom that plugs into the standard ECU?

Have you sold the ECU? Because I'm after the plug/loom that goes into it.

Did you sell the ecu? Because I'd like the car side loom that plugs into it if you still have it

Keep the 15 year old rule cause I want to be able to buy parts and upgrade/fix my car as it gets older. Cheap OLD imports are a good thing, cause I might like a model that only becomes affordable to me under this scheme. Most cars depreciate, you pay a heap already for maintaining your import, so its not cheap to own cars. Don't buy a car if you don't want it to depreciate. If you want to maintain your high priced car you can keep upgrading to a newer model and should because you don't mind paying more for a car and for compliance and the fact that it is rarer because nobody can afford i t. Just worry about the fact that the next car which could be a replacement after you smash it will cost more! If you want to spend more just buy a newer model. It isn't fair to say to people that you can't bring it in. The price of repair parts goes up too! As for paying the gov't more money for compliance fees, ARE YOU JOKING - they already rip us off with speed cameras. Most people are buying 15yo imports because they represent higher technology for lower price.

both ltx-8 and ltx-12 work for 6 cylinders ltx-8 does 4 - 8 cyl ltx-12 does 6 - 12 cyl looking from the back of the speedo the top right screw directly behind the speedo conducts the signal to the ecu.

Sydneykid - whiteline told me themselves that they sell King springs for one of their packages. It all depends on what is the most optimised package for the car. Just ask them if you want to know specifically what you are getting.

in r33 it isn't understeer you are worried about though I run 43 psi all round. Although lower rear pressure will give you better traction for accelerating. Just go as high as traction under hard acceleration permits with your tyres. Once you go hard enough you may get the occasional chirp as it looses traction over tiny road bumps when accellerating from the lights.

The speed signal from my microtech ltx-12 ecu which goes to my auto computer may need to be altered in some way in that case. I reset the auto ecu by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it which seemed to fix everything, but the next morning once the car got hot the same trouble came back with the gearbox failing to drop into a lower gear under full throttle at 70kph it stays in 4th. So I am assuming the speed signal is not right going through from the LTX-12 to the auto computer. Where is a good place to get the auto computer looked at in Sydney? Wonder why it only seems to be an issue when the car gets hot. Other symptoms are the overdrive button stopped working and the oeverdrive light flicks on and off by itself when its bumpy or I hold the gearstick in first under hard acceleleration the light comes on (o/d off), then goes off again once I move the stick to second. I am getting the front castor rods fixed up this week - front left one has split - wondering whether this affecting ABS may affect the gearbox like this? Once I go to full stop the next accelleration is normal but if then cruise for a few moments it won't drop a gear again when I plant the accellerator. Maybe the ecu needs to put out a normal signal to the auto computer while the double hz frequency goes into the ltx-12 it might need to convert back to half rate Hz to go to the auto ecu? Anyone know what is supposed to happen for R33 series 2 auto?

Cecam - where does the speed signal going to the speedo come from - is it the ecu or from a speed sensor? Also does the auto transmission computer get its speed signal from the speedo or the ecu?

I've noticed they (insurers) are all dropping their premiums - why is that? is it less thefts? recognition that skyline drivers are more careful? cost of repair is the same as other cars? They want the safe drivers to full insure instead of third party because full insurance is too expensive?

Unjust and unfair gov't ruining the country.

nice to know - thanks '4DoorGTR' - could you point out what year model is the Stagea 260RS S please.

yes

What about heavy duty clutch and gearbox options, cause I'm upgrading so that power upgrades can be held by the gearbox.

Great idea - what bleed kit is recommended for diy brake bleed? Instructions / pics would be good / maybe brand of bleed kit to make it clean and simple? (reuseable kit?). It would be very useful

I've never been there so can only make suggestions. Grid is usually to stop animals crossing by walking along the street. Was there a fence on both sides of the road? The dingo fence?

panasonic cq-df983w plays 320kbps mode 1 mp3 --- what is the k-lite aux input on the sony? what does k-lite stand for?

one of the 4 rear pads is down to 1 mm left with the other 3 at 4mm left - the original nissan pads

how much for the R33 auto to manual conversion kit with the rear manual lsd differential? and how much is labour to install this usually?