Edge

year of rice number plate? riceyr

brake pads for R33 series2 with 4 pot front calipers set of bendix ultimate front pads - near new less than 20% worn set of something else very similar infact probably the bendix advance front pads - these are under 50% worn both sets for $30 just make an offer so long as you can pick up in Sydney

what about panasonic cq-df983w - has an aux input and 5w pre outs including subwoofer - is $550 a good price?

Hmm how do I order the GT3040 then - pay direct with you mentioning group buy? Since this is a group buy I have to ask is the SAU discount going to be the same price or is it going to cost more in future?

come come now benm, I asked for the truth didn't I; besides I'm sure I mentioned that I was getting conflicting advice from different people. Thanks so much though for taking the time to answer. Those RTA rego guys are a real pain, when it comes to getting the truth. The way they go on its as if its illegal to own a car, and they will only make it legal if you pay licence fees and fines. They forget license fees are illegal and are only acceptable as a minimal charge to provide a paper certification of driving skill.

As far as I know Shannons don't take new business to insure skylines anymore.

Ho wlong did he leave it there for it to go flat?

been told that the law is changing 31st December regarding must have pods fully boxed into a Cold Air Induction. Does this only apply to cars imported under the new scheme or also to old scheme imports? When I got my car identity checked when I imported it the pink slip guys faulted the fact it had a pod and said it was not dependent on whether you blue slipped it under the new or old scheme. While the compliance shop told me it doesn't apply to old scheme imports, just about everyone else including my dynotuner is telling me to get the CAI done right away or risk police giving me a canary for it. What is the truth?

Replacement for thread "To do list 2003" Thanks to benm. I needed a place to post the 2004 plans So everyone can list what they are doing to their cars this year. What is everyone planning on doing to their cars in 2004? Here's mine - trying to do labour myself Certain will do CAI box install ($195) - to comply with the Dec 2003 law change whiteline handling kit ($600) wheel alignment ($65) rego and insurance clean and oil steering wheel ($24) clean inside car using cloth and trim cleaner ($26) cable tie the computers to stop them rattling around when hard cornering. install hand controller with two mounting points - in view and hidden away. buy a laptop dongle to see the computer readouts ($150) fix automatic computer/electrics and replace speed sensor screw in back of speedo cause its mucking up the torque converter and won't stay in power mode and switch for overdrive doesn't work. front wheels DBA brake slotted rotors installed ($400) new front pads hawk HT-10 ($550) greddy profec B-spec boost controller ($527) greddy oil catch can ($174) oh yeah - talk to nam's and get sat nav and tv system fixed for Australia. not certain yet auto to manual conversion (not sure how much but want to do the diff conversion with the gearbox and clutch) garrett GT3040 turbo ($1910) custom exhaust manifold with external wastegate ($1500) installed with turbo and dump pipe ($300) stainless braided oil lines for turbo ($400) fuel pump and rising rate regulator ($600) 720cc Trust injectors ($1300) tomei cams ($1200) probably need new tyres. Pirelli PZero Neros ($1460) 250 or 350rwkw this year if I'm still in Australia

Thanks for that story mic33r - I was considering leaving my car with family when I go overseas next time but after reading that - not going to. Everytime I've gone in the past I took all the keys with me, just made me realise what a good decision it was.

I used to get a lot of nails in my tyres from exactly the same kind of neighbours when I parked next to my gf's house. They think they own the public road! The first few times they let all the air out of my tyres, then they started doing the nails, propping them up under the tyre while I was parked, I started kicking them out before I drove away and then they started stabbing the sidewalls, so then I introduced myself to the neighbours son... stopped altogether.

Damn I didn't read this sooner. I've been planning to do route 2 oneday. So which route are you taking? How much dirt road on this route? Do you need a full body rubber coat to stop the paint chips or is a front bra enough? You could take off the carbra when you get to NT's tarmac. let us know when you get back where to slow down, for bad road sections, speed traps, skinny dipping locations, nice salt lakes, good views, nice hotels etc. etc... Tell us all about it. oh and make sure to take a notebook to write it all down.

When they think they can't afford anything better then what they have got is the best. Excell would need a bit more than a turbo with 96kw - actually would need 45kw extra added to stock 74kw - so with 120kw to be any good, you can't get that without a major engine ovehaul. Standard excel is top cruise speed 170kph only. Also excels are hopeless in the wet especially when doing downshift gear changes. Stock gtst's seem to be quicker than tuned ones from the lights. Anyone know why the power seems to come on real high then drop off to 3000rpm when standard?

pm me where can i get some of these $150 GTR rotors then? Are they the slotted type?

sidewaymambo - do you mean you can put the R33 GTST 4 pot calipers to fit without difficulty after replacing the rotors with the R32 GTR rotors?

Its 65L most I've filled up is 63L and remember paid $58 that day. and yep my yellow low fuel light first starts to flash on at 300km using consistent 15L/100km so thats at 45L used up, and I've driven an extra 120km without troubble - my car used to use 15L/100km - it gave me 420km per tank. did some dynotuning and now seems to use about 16L/100km - should get me 406km /tank - not fully tested for consistency yet - only did maximum a 318km 50L tank so far and working my way there. Have to consider I've been driving it extra hard since the tune too. edit - just to clarify my post is for a R33 Series 2

Those catch cans sound dangerous, how often you recommend need to check them and the oil level?

camera hooked up to your alarm so you can see whats going on fr om inside the car - even id the thieves.

what about a couple of extra fans for cooling the intercooler while waiting at the lights.

Thanks Bleach1 - I'll have to check it out. I had a whole lot of comments on heaps of cinemas but I lost it and too much trouble to rewrite the whole A4 page again. Suffice it to say that if you park where there are cameras - such as on the roof you'll be safer. Or get yourself an alarm with a camera in your car that you can view what happening on your mobile. Just a comment on Cabramatta which everyone seems to bag out - took a look and Cabramatta is actually quite safe, just watch out for the all the drug dealing white boys, plenty of street roaming drug dealers, but they just want to sell stolen stuff to you. To asians, careful the cops are extra racist out there.

GT-R - might you are the white trash!?

damn lost my post after clicking something.

Do you have the sticker across the rear windscreen? Do you like to drag other skylines from the lights?

How about the GT3040 turbo?

read benm's post here's mine never drive hard when tired! I didn't know much about brakes. 3 months after got my car - well the pads I had the compliance shop put in sounded like a freight train and were making my ears ring while I slept at night - so went to UAS and they said the quiet ones to get were Bendix ultimates, so got new bendix ultimate front pads spent $130, my rotors were smooth and almost new. Wore them in for 3 weeks in gentle driving, ok so they are ready for testing I thought so I went and drove along a likely street (10:00pm) to check it first - street has entrance at ends only. So all ok turn around and wait for last car to go away.. Wound up the boost and went to 190kph and upon hitting the brakes problem started. Well I thought I would drive safely and brake as soon as I hit 190kph. started braking and shit there was a right turn corner coming up. I was tired and it was dark and I had forgot to turn on high beam. After the first 10 seconds hadn't even got down to 140kph and was going into the corner. The brakes felt like they were 2/3 missing! Because I was tired I didn't think to use engine braking. The balance was out because I had only upgraded the front pads. Under brakes - front did oversteer. I corrected. The 4 wheel steering corrected. I corrected again, and the 4 wheel steering corrected again and I corrected again once more and then it went to correct me again and I thought well there is a brick building on the outside left and a open field on the inside right, and I noted I was at 80kph and at this point I should have let the brakes off but and rode it out but being tired didn't because I thought the standard suspension was swaying too much and I could go into the building if I lose traction. So I let it oversteer hoping it would stop. Spun the car and the left front tyre hit the right side curb right where a telegraph pole was (lucky didn't touch the pole), car started rolling backwards! And now the abs kept letting off the brakes! 6 metres then each second was 5 4 3 come on should have stopped by now at least and then it ran off the road at 2 kph and rolled into a 8 foot mesh wire fence between two poles backwards and came to a stop with the rear tyres halfway up a knocked over fence. Black smoke was pouring out of the front wheels from the brakes in plumes 2 metres high making it hard to see through the windscreen!!! Managed to drive off fence and onto road and gunned it with all this noise coming from front left wheel but kept going had to split the scene and went down and turned the corner before stopping to get out and check the damage. In the dark in the lights of the car saw I had popped the front left guard out and it was rubbing the tyre so I quickly puched that back in. Went around the back and scratches on both side quarter panels and minor scratches on the rear bumper were visible. Thought gee I'm lucky to have survived with so little damage. Went back to the house where my wife was waiting parked in a dark spot and hoped she wouldn't see. Luckily she got in and I drove home and we went inside without her noticing. Next morning I get up real real early and go out to take a closer look. slightly cracked light bent both rear quarter panels, scratches all over rear bumper. busted front guard, front left wheel saved by rim protector on tyre. The tabs under the number plate had been pulled out of shape by the fence as they caught on it when I drove off. Hop in drive it to a panel beater and tell my wife, "I'm getting the car detailed". Leave it there a couple of days and its all good. Cost me $2800 Then a few days later notice there is a bubble in tyre - so into Jax, the tyre is damaged beyond repair. Not that you could see. Bought new tyre cost $365. Damn expensive considering I bought all 4 only 2 months earlier for $230 each. Pirelli PZero Nero 225/55/R16 Very expensive test of brakes. And to top it off, the brakes were squealing even worse after that too! Also recently had to machine the disks - they had worn from almost new to 30% gone in 6 months of using bendix ultimates. And 3/4 of pads worn. Moral of the story - don't get Ultimates they wear your rotors very very fast! - don't get ultimates they are very very noisy - don't get ultimates they make way too much brake dust and leave your wheels black after just one day. Well I had a full dynotune with new computer and got Galver 1105 pads last week and something good on back - perfect balance under brakes in corners - just tested going around a corner at 140kph under brakes for a 40kph advisory. All four wheels skidded evenly with complete control. Went past a police car in the corner but they just saw me and kept going! Well I just had to test the new brakes! Yes I had had plenty of sleep! (daytime 10.00am this time) I don't need to test most of the time so I like to put put around thinking of the next upgrade. Now I'm planning to put aside $10,000 and go for 350rwkw. I really want to see power over 200kph. Its getting boring going to 190 and the acceleration slows. Dyno currently shows 180rwkw. After the tune the car makes much less power down low but much more everywhere else, with a smooth torque curve about 2.3 times as much torque as standard. Standard did 170 rwkw peak before tune. Damn auto gearbox is no good, but that could be beacuse the screw on the back of the speedo was taken out to stop the speed limiter and hasn't yet been put back in now the new computer is in. Also the overdrive switch won't hold it in 3rd gear. I am now considering whether to get a manual conversion or invest in getting the auto repaired temporarily till I get the big upgrade done and get a manual conversion then. PS. I may have to delete this if my wife ever wants to read my posts