Edge

s-afc is still for sale

Update The s-itc has been sold. The s-afc is still for sale.

Oops - forgot all about this, been so-o busy at work and in my spare time; getting a dynotune, new brakes, and the redline gear fluid done, and gear trouble etc. etc... - I forgot to log in to check. ~~~ Here goes 5 button type Still for sale but have to check as I put them on display at UAS and they might have sold the itc for me already because they seem to have taken it off the list for sale. Will check 9:00am and post back...

upgraded turbo and programmable computer so need for these anymore. apexi s-afc (air flow controller) $250 apexi s-itc (ignition timing controller) $250 both together as a package for $450

Why would you want it to come on later on low anyhow? Won't save you petrol if thats what you are thinking. The principle of saving petrol is not having to keep the accelerator on for long.That is cruise as much as possible at a steady high speed and avoid braking. So just get up to speed quick and coast in high gear. Revving slowly up to high rpm without the boost on won't help your cause as you are still using the same amount of energy to get up to the target speed. The main advantage of accelerating slowly is that you may end up braking less because you don't get make it up to the target speed before you are already braking at the next lights. Who cares about low boost controller setting - if you press the accelerator less; voila! lower boost is created.

No effect likely - if anything the velocity of the air in your exhaust pipe will decrease and the gas start to cool and become denser and move slower, increasing pressure toward the back of the exhaust.

Having asked the same question a while back here is what I learned. For RB25DET A 3.25" would be ideal - will give you a very small gain - maybe 1-2%, over that there is less than 1% gain to be had. There is far more competition in 3" mandrel bent exhaust which is plenty because you can keep the air flowing through this size pipe without cooling down and slowing too much this way. Simple answer, money for power its not worth the $ over 3" exhaust. I know you want the best but 3" is 98% best for 2/3 the price and you could contribute to a turbo upgrade instead with the $ you save.

I've been advised for the rear pads I should use HAWK High Performance Plus pads instead of HAWK HT10.40 for the rears. Two reasons 1) to utilise them in the operating temp range 2) to avoid locking up rear wheels when they eventually do heat up to operating temp. Since the higher temp pads have higher friction. I'm ready to get heat treated slotted rotors after I wear out the standard rotors. I'm inviting comments. What do you think, am I doing the right thing? Optimum Temp Ranges which HAWK use as opposed to working temp ranges: HAWK HT10.40 149°C - 871°C HAWK HP Plus 0°C - 425°C

I'm considering using these on almost new standard r33 rotors with 4 pot front calipers Installing front and rear. Also - What is the highest temp brake fluid irrespective of price?

I want to buy the Nissan original O2 sensor part - anyone know what the part number is for R33? or where I can get it as I don't want to cut wires.

siksII you got me thinking has anyone done a comparison between top of the line michelin and pirellli tyres on grip michelin cost over $500 per tyre pirelli only $380 per tyre on price for same features I went pirelli but no test drive. So regarding the michelins can you find out which model? Are you talking straight line grip or cornering grip? fm-901's make nice white smoke when they spin and due to their lower grip you feel like your riding harder rubber. Warning - P-Zeros are very very quiet! although a corner you wouldn't go over 70kph in a brand new volvo you can do at 120kph with PZero's in your skyline, JUST RIDE IT OUT! No drifting! The time I did that my brakes got too hot and I couldn't slow down enough before the turn. takes about 1 second to drop each 10kph when your brakes are overheating. Freaky. 90 degree left turn - can take at 90kph - 40kph higher than an excel with slightly wider triple sidewall temperature A warmed up tyres. at 50kph.

clicked on the link - but not on server? could see the one on the pic posted just before though.

oh well I suppose its just extra attention to protect our valuable cars.

Sometimes the way the cops pull you over when you arn't breaking any rules, and then threaten you with taking your car off you, all without having reason or bothering to get out of their car to talk to you, but shouting at you instead. It seems like the cops are taking this too far and treating skyline owners like criminals. The polite and considerate police have nothing to worry about, but the rude and unreasonable ones will get complaints by every possible avenue available because making unjustified threats like this is plain disgusting! I would ask the police to please treat drivers with respect regardless of whether they drive an import or not. I will say I'm sorry for ever having a skyline to gain the cops attention, cause I certainly wasn't doing anything wrong. Having a skyline makes us more satisfied, and we do take the time to develop a great deal of driving skill and just like to enjoy the feel of acceleration. This should not be a crime to accellerate fast while keeping under the speed limit and no loss of traction is not something we should be yelled at for! I hope they get rid of the fixed speed cameras - they are blatant money making machines, not one iota to do with road safety! These cameras and the behaviour of police and restrictive regulations in general that are developed into law creating barriers to entry for non-established people are proof that the system is corrupt. The police are the front line in showing the system is not corrupt. Don't forget that Australian law is supposed to be based on common sense, not having to keep making so many rules. I feel old now.

2rismo - Did he say why they do routine checks for? Do they actually database the drivers of skylines to track who drives the vehicle at a later date if the car is used in a crime? Just wondering.

please post a pic of the sticker

P plater hasn't yet learned the value of safe driving and doesn't yet feel the ache of lost time and money. But then again anyone who gambles and doesn't stop when they are losing has something emotionally wrong with them. All in the name of fun. Did you know that fun is a concept unique to English. It refers to doing something wrong and getting away with it. It has absolutely nothing to do with enjoyment, which comes from doing something productive or worthwhile. Fun is a result of mild psychosis: A mental disease.

random breath tests are not random they look out for skylines and then "random" breath test them.

is it a dark colour car? They are just recording where theve seen it so they can look it up if someone steals it and uses it in a crime. probably doing a comparison with crime photos. Nothing to worry about.

testing compression is easy - just take out a spark plug and push in the rubber bung of the compression guage. Do one at a time for each cylinder while keeping all the other cylinders spark plugs in and connected.

sure do - actually tested on mine - got rid of a tyre but the rims good as new.

other known issue that it might be is broken bolt - told it was on the side of the turbo with the exhaust pipe on it, - ie. not under compression. Could this leaking cause this?

no fully auto in power mode. I'm starting to think that the speed hump may be causing the gear to change early. Also I feel that it may be compressor surge on the turbo. What I would like to find out is - if the exhaust pipe is not firmly mounted could it cause this sort of problem? My exhaust pipe could be bumping around a bit. Its 3" inc dump. Also could brake issues such as air in lines or uneven disks cause this? I have ABS.

Could an o2 sensor bo at fault? Mine is jammed right up against the turbo heatshield.

car sounds more like its grinding ERRRRRRRRRRR completely different engine/exhaust note! Like I said before - an alarming ERROR BUZZER just slightly louder than normal when under full boost. It kind of reminds me of a sound like air trying to be blown so super hard/fast through a horn so that the noise goes away! blabblabblab at extremely high frequency. This does not happen on a smooth road. Only when accelerating HARD just after the front wheels go up onto a big speed hump, going over speed humps which jolt the car.