Edge

finally this is under hard acceleration and I've never noticed the car changing gears at 5000rpm when under hard acceleration . It always changes at 7000 rpm.

not a whole 2 seconds though does it? and the rpm gets stuck at 5000rpm while its changing gears? I guess its possible - perhaps I should change my gear oil first.

auto

On hard accelleration ussually after going over a speed hump. At 5000rpm hear a sound from the engine a bit like what you'd expect from a noisy error buzzer and the rpm gets stuck at 5000 rpm for a couple of seconds and no acceleration of car. . Has anyone experienced this and what do I need to do to fix it?

Get PZero Nero - awesome around corners! And they save you from buying new rims if you hit the kerb.

looks like you'll have to get a cheaper, older model $20,000 car and keep $20,000 - for your own insurance fund: It even covers buying another one if you smash it so bad you write it off, ie. more than $10,000 damage. If you do smash this bad then sell the car parts. Average damage from a moderate (fairly substantial front end collision accident according to NRMA research is $3500 to $4500 So this is what you are likely to pay. Insurance is overpriced! just pay $211 bucks for third party property damage insurance, so you don't have to pay for the ferrari you smashed into. try to drive safe. If you saved paying insurance of $3000 a year up for 7 years without an at fault accident you will have saved $21,000 enough to buy another car! ... you get the idea.

Nismodified - could you see what mods on skylines they were giving defects out for?

As long as you aren't running your skyline with the internet enabled Mac, cause when Mr Gates hears about that he might start a virus attack to take down your car.

benm - was that all 4 discs or just the front?

drifta where you get your kit - what cooler was it and what piping material?

the brown areas are glazed parts of the disc!

Has anyone tried anti-squeal paste between doubble shims? nismoman18 You can see burnished disks have turned brown in places. With mine I get squeal like a freight train after I drive hard for 2 minutes and none after I drive like a grandmother for a coupple of days. So I'm seriously looking for slotted rotors. I wonder if we could organise a group buy?

yeah - when?

Robo how did you work out the AFM was faulty? Did you measure the output - cause I want to test mine.

argh your scaring me. Now I want to swap an afm just to see.

benm - how do you do that that?

To depress calipers back so that you can put fat new pads in if you don't have the special tool - just turn the old pad sideways and lever the calipers - only use your finger power - it hurts your fingers only a little bit and its only 4 pads you are doing not a fleet of cars. Don't use a screwdriver because you run the risk of damaging your caliper seals! Accidents with tools in cars happen so very easily. nismoman18 - that was pool chlorine and brake fluid - eventually the chemical reaction heats up real hot - releases gas - likelyhood of auto ignition is very high especially if stored in a container. Be very careful where you store fuels and oil - keep it away from fertiliser and other chemicals! You could blow up your house. Don't bother sanding your pads if you are getting squeal - first check you havn't already burnished your disks. Cause if you have the squeal will come back within 3 weeks. Best thing to do is to buy slotted brake rotors which will keep your pads de glossed all the time, and provide better braking at the same time. You get squeal because your brakes are getting too hot - what do you expect going from over 220kph to 0kph in one non stop hard braking! This seems to take twice as long as the acceleration and is a whole lot scarier too! By the way the brake caliper depressor tool looks like the letter Y and has a prong for the calipers on the top of each side of the Y. Never bothered using it myself, just too lazy to dig it out of which ever tool box it ended up in.

aluminium piping?

k just checking i'm sure they would

These new parts?

Jet Are you saying the fan doesn't need to be cut if tie up the crosspipe with string or perhaps adjust the bracket shape connecting to those two holes? Also red anodized aluminium with red silicon? Is that a go?

Joel did you reset your ECU while doing swapping afm on the dyno run?

get a set of aftermarket cams and adjustable cam wheels to replace the whole lot

You definately do hear ticking like that with low oil. Did someone steal your expensive oil after watching you change it and get underneath with a spaner and collect your oil? - haha Do that check oil level in the morning when cold. Check your muffler - is it wet with oil slick? you'd better fill your oil up again before driving it further! check your oil pressure too - post that. If its hot the oil would drain to sump sufficiently fast to get a reading accurate enough after half an hour. However if the oil filter is blocked you might have to take the reading while cold. Blow by is a cause of oil consumption but usually its worse at higher boost. Blow by gets worse as the piston rings get worn.

did he take the restrictor out - put it back in. Then you'll be able to bleed fast enough to have lower psi. Or try turning the knob anti clockwise to lower boost. Or provide more details on the way the bleed valve is installed and more details about the way boost is behaving.