Edge

23rd March is grand prix circuit practice day at Oran Park!

get one of those commodores with the exclusive model rims to use as bait and park 2 spaces from exit gate in the security section.

Do you need a security licence, and what evidence, number of witnesses, and do you need a successful prosecution for citizens arrest or can we be sued for wrongful arrest when we call the police? Can you show me legal advice? Guess it means car owners need insurance against theft. Pity people who's cars arn't worth getting comprehensive insurance, those cheaper late model cars are being stolen a lot more. For those without insurance your best option against losing a car from security parking, is to physically remove essential electrical components or fuses. Makes it too much of a hastle (time wize) beyond breaking your locks and dashboard, which they do anyway while they check for spare keys and try to hotwire the ignition, and so be prepared to buy new locks and dash parts. It is possible to rig a car up with hidden cameras inside, I can build it for you and you can install all 4 cameras to watch all sides of the vehicle. Good for recording cruises too. Can't wait to catch a car thief red handed, count me in for the possie, but what is the penalty for the thief under law, is it severe enough to bother? Why not just put information brochures around the security park advising the penalty for car theft instead? Thing is it even catching them red handed won't stop them, there are several thieves, and the guards know who they are, they just can't be bothered sticking their necks out, quick way to lose their job. Why don't you just put gps tracking in a typical cheap theft target vehicle, to find the workshop wrecking them. Or better still gps tracking inside the 4wds spare wheel. If the law doesn't do anything about it then lets catch them and perhaps give the thieves a job working for us? We need some replacement parts from our stolen cars.

want grand prix circuit

afaik it is still a 1/4 mile

Noticing at 20 psi it seems richer, so looks like the tune richens up with more boost - you might want to get a afr done at 15psi - no knocking sounds good, if you can save money without spending more on a retune. The power graph is smooth enough. Might be worth checking if the timing advance also lessens when you wind it up to 15psi.

yes these batteries can die I had a red top one i just threw out after only 2 years - couldn't be bothered trying for warranty, they will just say I let it go flat for too long at some point. you should be able to charge it a coupple of times from completely flat as the idea is that the gel helps to prevent sulphation by cracking when i9t goes flat and releasing more electrolyte. Just check that it holds the charge. mine lost the charge after 1 day and dropped to 5v instead of 12v so I threw it away - there goes $750 Now that I think about it maybe I should have tried discharging it first?

how is this going? no response to request to post first step of problem solving, or did you jump to the solution and replace wiring near the battery connectors or something? let us know what the problems solution was?

Thanks I was looking for the word "multimeter" could only think of "omnimeter" meaning meters everything: I was not reffering to "ohmmeter". Guess I could have used voltmeter. HaZ3inSKY if you want help please get that reading direct from the battery terminals with the car switched off.

You are looking good for a power run now! post your dyno sheet after your power run, it would be interesting to see if it has changed much over time. don't worry about the power numbers, they vary wildly from dyno to dyno, more interested in the power curve shape and the afr.

I ended up having to mow lawn ... I'll ring cams and get my licence sorted out and I left a message for shell yesterday to follow up on my sau card.

please get an omnimeter and measure the voltage directly from your battery terminals and post that first. it does sound like a sulphated battery, but it could also be a corroded or degraded wire where they connect to the connectors onto the battery, since the factory don't solder the connections, they just clamp them. get the battery shop to run some tests on your alternator and battery function. If the battery is bad and you measure the voltage while the alternator is running and the voltage is up aqround 14V instead of 13.5V it indicates your battery needs replacing.

Hey Duncan, should I come tomorrow if my L2S still hasn't arrived? Also I'm still waiting for my SAU card to come in the mail

I tried my local nissan - but they wouldn't order them for me. I ordered parts from Japan but for some reason they won't order these weathershields, they did not give any reason just sounded like they didn't feel like looking it up, should I try a different nissan shop?

I need to replace the weather shields around the tops of the windows on my 4door R33 s2 gtst. Does anyone know how I can get some new ones?

have r33 manual shifter surround w/o leather boot $50 + postage msg me

I think you are getting ripped off on the tune. Have you asked the original tuner whether he tuned it that way or if it has changed afr? If it wasn't too long ago you might want a second tuner who is willing to listen for ping for you. might check exhaust gas temps, is it overheating? What is your temp gauge showing? And if it isn't pinging, it may be fine, and just a really agressive fine tune!! with better fuel efficiency. Ask the original tuner first, since you know it was Jim at CRD then call him and check if he did it that way and see if its ok to just leave as it is, since you don't want to waste money. He would be able to check the tuning chart for the car from the last time on his dyno. In my oppinion it is probably ok, the boost isn't too high, just check for ping and watch the water temp gauge for signs of overheating. Don't waste your money on another tune before you check out ping or knocking and at least see some signs of overheating. have you done your own power run (accelerated all the way in third gear with the pedal to the floor up to 180kph), if nothing went wrong then you should be fine for a power run cause that is almost exactly the same thing just on the dyno. Don't be scared to get a power run with that ratio, it isn't going to melt in the mere 30 seconds it takes! It is unlikely to be overheating at this afr (you would notice it on your water temp guage) and it takes waaaay longer than 30 seconds to melt it, seriously go somewhere else (pay them) to listen for ping or knocking if its too advanced, you will HEAR it if there is a problem! Get your power run! In general watch the water temp guage, that should do it but if you are still worried get an exhaust gas temp reading done. I think you are getting ripped off on the tune. In general for everyone with concerns about tune should keep an eye on the water temp - if it goes above normal get it checked, if it goes redline turn off your car immediately! If you were going for 14:1 ratio ie. very close to stoicmetric 14.7:1 (perfect burn) you might want to get a exhaust gas temp gauge. Your tune is still sufficiently on the rich side to be safe so long as it is not pinging with that advanced timing. DO NOT BE SCARED TO GET SOMEONE ELSE TO LISTEN FOR PINGING (to see if it is too advanced timing wize before you waste money on retuning it). Lastly how the hell did they get that chart without doing a power run in the first place? edit - I just had to add this - it looks like it was deliberately tuned for 13:1 and max fuel efficiency. It doesn't spike into lean ratio at all! And it makes sense to go up to 14.0 at off boost and idle speeds. And it looks like a low gear power run to me, couldn't have got the graph without one.

ORAN PARK has practise day on tomorrow Sunday 10th Feb, Grand Prix track. Who's coming? Duncan you better come cause i still havn't got my licence card or my membership card yet.

I also recommend you get new coils. Maybe check your engine earthing wire while you are at it. On top of your standard turbo heat shield there should be a connecting mesh wire tape to help earth your engine to the body. NGK V spark plugs are what I use and they are fine. Its to do with the spark length as well since a bigger spark gives more affirmative combustion. 0.8mm works - it is already much smaller gap than the 1.2mm standard plug size but not too small for effective ingnition. the NGK copper V should be fine spark wize - they just need changing a bit too often due to metal loss if you don't use platinum or iridium. edit - the V refers to the spark plug design V tooth sparking surface on the armature, designed to give a more precise location for a strong spark with less material loss. Go order some plugs in FACTORY MADE with 0.8mm. Any shop should do this for you if you ask. They should have a book with the temp rating standard platinum plug of the R33 as well in the store. Be careful of those temp ratings, i think the smaller numbers are higher temp, unless you adjusted your thermostat stay with the genuine rating.

Argh I looked a bit more last night - way too late I know but I found the series 2 auto gear surround in case someone else wants to buy it. If anyone wants it I'll take a pic. How much did you buy yours for boostd?

try this before you do anything else get some 0.8mm gap spark plugs you want a bigger spark than 0.6mm...standard R33s2 comes with platinum for longer life between changes and more stable gap size. (and 1.2mm gap) (it isn't too hard to change the plugs yourself - stress strongly you use a small socket driver and not a philips head where you have the option on the screws) take it for a drive then get it to the dyno and check your coil packs aren't breaking down (having spark run elsewhere instead of the proper spark plug gap) if your coil packs are playing up just get second hand if you only need 1 or 2 otherwise you can fork out for a set of 6 new ones. once this is sorted, get your tune tweaked to see if you can get a better result at high rpm. cold nights result in more boost due to more power being generated by more oxygen in the denser air, resulting in an increased likelihood of spark breakdown. You only need to replace fuel pump or install a rising rate fuel pressure regulator if you are running lean at higher rpm. Other than that you don't need to waste money on cams which just enable a little more power from higher rpm range. for much bigger bang for your buck, buy a turbo if you want more power...and then you might consider the cams.

just took a look at the graph at the top you posted, that tune you have looks like a good result, I wouldn't call that boost drop significant, the power graph looks fine. cams or maybe just another adjustable cam wheel would fix it for the higher rpm boost. Normally the engine looses efficiency over 6500 rpm with standard cams.

well can't see any picture and my piping is onto a bleed valve but there is a restrictor in the tube going to the actuator on the turbo which should have had a restrictor removed, there should be a hard thing in the tube where a red or white mark is on it. It should have been removed already, but just a thought. You could try a different tuner, it should be tuned while locked into 3rd gear. Boost leak anywhere? Any whistling noise from the turbo indicating broken fin? not sure how boost is controlled by power fc, does it have a variable fast pulse rate that can be increased. The series 2 turbo with its plastic impeller which is slightly stronger than the ceramic impeller on the series 1 turbo means that the series 2 turbo will run 13 psi at the track and is not known to have shear issues under this pressure. series 1 turbo is good up to 12 psi. Just to give an indication, I was suffering boost drop at high rpm as well, was fixed with replacing coils and replacing iridium v 0.8mm gap spark plugs at correct 5 temp rating. Find yourself a good tuner, I took my car to three different places and each told me a different story two of which turned out to be false, first tuner charged me $980 for a tune, and two days later put it on the dyno and said it was a weak wastegate spring. Second tuner said it was the boost controller needing to be an electronic one instead of bleed valve. Third tuner said it was a coupple of the coil packs and said this is quite common in skylines, fixed + quick tune and now boost holds at high gear high rpm. Measure whether the fuel mixture is running rich with a guage in your exhaust at the high rom and boost, don't just use the powerfc knocking light to tune, you need to check it. If the fuel mixture is ok and the spark/coils arn't breaking down then put up with it or get a bigger turbo, cause at least you have fuel effificiency.

what are you actually using for the boost controller, perhaps try removing the restrictor on the tube going to the standard ebc? I'm running 15 psi on my standard series 2 turbo and its fine with the fmic on.

I was thinking of buying a roller too, is it hard to remove those calipers?