Edge

I was intending to but didn't realise the tickets would be so hard to get. As a last resort I may try to buy some tickets from scalpers at the front gate on Friday. While I am still trying to get tickets, I have a backup plan. I'm having a western style charcoal BBQ made in Shanghai; gas BBQ's are not permitted in high rise buildings here. I plan to have some friends over to watch it on the big screen while we have a BBQ on the super size verandah overlooking the city on Sunday.

Is anyone else going to the Shanghai Formula 1?

I want a copy too those sites say forbidden when you try to access ?

Thankyou, that was just what I was looking for, and thanks for the FWD explanation. ---- Full whiteline handling kit is installed including rear camber and adjusted to whiteline specs, though using -1.0 camber on rear. Using standard springs. ---- So first put a HICAS lock kit on. What brand kit is best? Then upgrade my shocks. What shock rate is advisable? Is this a matter for testing using adjustable shocks or is there a recommended rate? I know whiteline recommend Bilsteins unless they have their new Group 4 shocks out for the R33 which I haven't checked yet. Do you think these would be the go, since whiteline say they test everything? So Ohlins are the best? Which one do I order? Adjustable or fixed rate? If get adjustable how would you know what rate to set them at? The Bilsteins are said to squish the springs about 20% getting rid of some of the early soft part of the variable rate spring. Seems this a good thing? Is a $90 justjap strut brace ok or is the oem GTR strut brace better? Still wondering is 225/50/R16 rubber all round any good on 16"x7.5" rims? Should I get fatter tyres/rims for the rear? Thanks again.

Here is a bit of my rant from the postwhore NSW thread, thought I should move it here as it is a little more serious... It is rumoured a GTR is coming in 2007, anybody know if this is true? Wonder what its going to be like. What should my next car be then? Whats that replacement/remake coming out for the RX7? Rotary seems nice too, whats the deal with rotary? I thought they had lower torque? Shouldn't it be possible to corner faster with FWD doing a drift at ultra high speed so that with weight shift to the front you get more traction for keeping the car pulling in the right direction. Note I wouldn't want to break front wheel traction because I want to get the max power to the ground. The reason I ask is that there is this right angled corner I take that I can do 90kph while holding the line. I am wondering whether fwd would hold the line and manage to deliver more power to the road? Rear wheel drive manages to move weight onto the rear wheels while going through turn while still giving plenty of grip to front wheels, however its hard to get the power down through the rear wheels, rear still breaks traction too easily causing oversteer. I've got a whiteline handling kit installed with standard springs. I'm not sure if suspension can make up for it, since it may just be the simple FR weight distribution of the GTST R33 4 dr. Perhaps I should just drop a bag of cement in the boot. If I set the rear swaybar softer it doesn't help as it just causes roll. Perhaps its my rear springs or shocks, or should I be getting a sub frame brace? basically I feel as if I should be able to get more power to the rear wheels before it loses rear traction with only moderate power while in a turn. When it loses traction I can't get enough power down to the road to accelerate forward. Perhaps I just need bigger rear wheels? ------- After that rant, I came to the conclusion that all I need is bigger rubber on the rear. Cause it isn't weight transfer causing the loss of traction. ------- Do bigger radius tyres give better cornering if they are actually bigger in circumference? Or is this just about the quality of the tarmac? Or does it smooth out response to the throttle inputs? ------- Still wondering whether FWD is better. Wondering about rotary. And whether GTR is worth getting. ------- Should I move this to the art of drift thread? ----- What is the basic cause of the oversteer in the R33 GTST design? Why does it start to oversteer so much so early, is it basically the FR design? Is it that I can't get enough weight onto the rear wheels? Would bigger wheels = better traction, = more weight shift to rear = more traction for more power? Which is why I come back full circle to question of FWD? Damn but seems like FWD should go slower when I think of it one way but when I think of it another way it seems it should go faster. So confusing. Weight shift onto the front of the car when turning while trying to deliver power does seem very dangerous. But would it go faster? So would an RX7 be faster in drift cornering? Does anyone know? Has anyone tested this theory on a race track? Looks like if you go so fast that you lose rear traction you would go slower, however when trying to get around a corner that you are going so fast that there is loss of sideways traction caused by pure centrifugal force. This is what I am interested in. The RX7 going into corner at 130 under brakes then throw rear traction by pull e-brake - hold weight shift to front. Then accelerate through the corner. With wheels power spinning would not have enough traction to get max speed. So this rant leads me to believe I should either stick with RWD or get a 4WD car. But just how light is the RX7? Perhaps the front is heavy and the rear is extra light. This would mean that it has a very high natural weight shift to the front. And to reduce tracking to the outside of the corner loss of rear wheel traction may work to make the car track after the front wheels more effectively? If I stick to RWD car then I believe I may just need some fatter rubber on the rear, and finally, I may just have to put a bag of cement, so to speak in the boot. Over to you.

thanks for posting that.

I wrote heaps but it deleted by somehow going back to previous page 10 seconds before I could click submit post. I'll try again at a later date.

oh well - just to inform that I no longer want one.

fane - Do cops normally swear in that area because I know if one swore at me even one swearword I'd be reporting him for abuse! It isn't acceptable to swear unless you do. Get their name and report them. They need manners as they are supposed to be upstanding citicens who carry responsibility/authority. They even have a law which they can book you for swearing at them, which shows how offensive it is to swear at you too. I have to say even when you aren't doing anything, sometimes the police are a bit hot and bothered from chasing someone else and effectively street racing themselves and then when they pull you over you cop the abuse where they say you are driving mad violent and reckless and they can take your car and licence. What a power ride for their tempers. The law should not put so much discression into the equation. Discression should be for whether to charge for the offence with regard to whether it was intentional or not. It should not be based on emotional issues as quite clearly the cops are very emotional sometimes and they need a clear legal guideline about what to do when they feel this way. The hoon laws should be restricted to certain area/times with regard to public use and in other areas/times normal laws apply. In such areas the offenders would be highly visible to a number of witnesses! In this way offenders would be charged fairly and offences would be almost nil. Isn't that the intention of the law? Confiscation of cars by hot headed cops is a bad idea. Particularly as police have to be seen as respectable to avoid having large numbers of the public turn against them. People who have been wronged enough don't care about police protection laws. I think the police protection laws are tyranical and unfair in their current application wher police often bust you for walking with friends or for meeting with a group of people, or for driving with a new friend following behind you to your church for the first time. On the friend following bit we have to take back roads and pull over for a minute whenever a police car approaches. No racing, overtaking or driving alongside whatsoever and they still bust you for street racing just because both your cars are full of teenagers and you look like you could be racing because you are together. PLEASE tell me what is wrong with following someone, do I really need to get police convoy permission if I am following my friend to his house? Not that they would give it consideration if I rang either. The situation is bad and makes me angry because imports are targeted and we also keep getting pulled over by police who just want to see who is driving at 45kph in a 60 zone . What are they thinking; that it must be a bad driver is driving conservatively so he doesn't get caught? Only thing that keeps me from getting in trouble is a perfect driving record, because the tempers of some police, particularly older police are making them borderline mad when they pull you over. How is it they put these grumpy old men in the pursuit car and then they race after cars who put a bit of acceleration down and threaten to take your car away. We bought powerful cars because we like the spirited acceleration from the lights, no burnouts or screechie noises either. Do they have to punish us for this? They should pull over more of the 25kph drivers in a 60kph zone to make roads safer instead! Every one in the public has a right to drive! A licence is legally only a certificate of competance and I find it EXTREMELY offensive that they now started to print the price on the licence card in NSW. No one should have to pay to be allowed to drive, only for a certificate of competance to be administered.

would like to clarify one thing though - the $225,000 maximum exposure thing - does that mean that AXA takes over if the accident liability exceeds this amount?

k but it sure isn't very flow efficient cause it drops from 13.3 to 11 where it is stable. But I am going to re dynotune very soon - considering my options.

Glad you put that to rest Famous. AXA is a well known Australian reinsurer. Noone should have anymore trouble insuring with them. Since Famous have invited - give them a call when you are insuring and ask them because it means they should be able to pay in any claim eventuality.

robert112 - not true I think that while the r33 and r33 series1 models have ceramic wheel (good for 10psi) the r33 series2 turbos have a plastic compressor wheel which copes with 11psi fine. The problem with these series 2 turbos seems to be flow efficiency/ weak wastegate spring and not possible to actually set spike over 13.3 psi. Supposedly will break at 13.4psi if hot enough. I don't know if that is with a fully standard turbo since you can't set it that high without either high flowing the turbine side or changing the wastegate spring to a harder one. Damn I wish someone had told me all this before so I didn't have to find out by experience.

famous ha - who is the 100% Australian reinsurer? If you can explain this, I'll insure with you. The problem seems to be the way you explain it - As far as I can see, isn't Heritage a UK based reinsurer for Famous retail insurer in Australia? I havn't found that streamline has written anything public about you. Why are you making threats to sue someone who supposedly wrote something about you. I can't seem to find any statements on this thread that the public can actually read. He does seem to be drawing attention to a newletter published for your customers. Discussion about your newsletter is a healthy thing unless you feel you have something to hide. Do you? Put it plain and clear, explain the risk to your customers and the official attitude of the company and if this is how most people say you actually deal with them, your good reputation will precede you. In particular I would like to know what the financial rules mean in regard to the ability of famous to pay claims. Will famous get money from its reinsurer if it has a lot of big claims? So just tell me. The UK has a good legal system and you state that Heritage uses the UK laws, so I would just like to ask: Is the reinsurance contract that famous holds with Heritage based in UK or Aus. Just stating such a contract exists in UK jusrisdiction would make it clear you can pay claims, and put further speculation to rest.

Its just this sort of discussion which is useful to people buying and selling! Please change the rules. Someone will buy it if the info provided is informative enough then it will sell. Note this is spectre undetectable as well as VG2 undetectable. So it will not get detected! However it is visible to the naked eye in the window of your car which is where it needs to be if it is to detect laser. On the other point of laser(handheld) gun radar - you will find this does detect laser(handheld) gun radar but using stray radiation bouncing off the car in front. Usually the manual will explain how all this works. Hey I'd buy this one but I don't need it Features of this detector 11-band Ultra™ Extra Sensory Detection® radar/laser SmartPower™ Power Saver System Strobe Alert™ provides advanced alert of the presence/approach of vehicles equipped with traffic light controlling strobe emitters Intellimute™ relative speed sensing auto mute system that virtually eliminates false alerts Safety Alert® traffic warning system 360-degree LaserEye® Spectre Alert to make you aware of Spectre radar detection Spectre Undetectable provides immunity from Spectre radar detector detection VG-2 Alert® VG-2 undetectable Voice Alert™ system 8-point electronic compass DigiView® Data Display provides an easily recognizable digital text display EasySet™ Programming Menu Digital Signal strength indicator Auto mute City/Highway switch Dim Mode switch allows you to dim the radar display to enhance night driving visibility Stay Set electronic memory remembers radar detecctor settings for an indefinite period of time even with the power removed System ready prompt Detects 5 Radar Signals: X Band, K Band, Ka Superwide, VG-2 Alert™ System, and Spectre System Detects 3 Laser Signals: LTI 20-20™ Laser, Ultra Lyte™ Laser, ProLaser™, and ProLaser III™ 2 Safety Systems: Safety Alert® System and Strobe Alert™ System Dimensions: W 3.2 in; H 1.3 in; D 4.65 in Weight: 6 oz

The picture is not very clear - are there fins inside the bars too? Anyway if the other guys want we can ship all 3 in one go to my office.

Hey if Penfold or someone will take the injectors and the mats - I'll take the rest and even sort out cr34tion with a CashOnDelivery deal for you. I guarantee to come and pay hard cash on the same day you call me with an ok!

I want one but I'm in Sydney. How do I pay and how quick will it get to me?

Where are you getting you information? The oil does work you know against friction when both cold and hot - just make sure you have the recommended 7w40 or even better 10w40 pure synthetic motor oil - redline. Apart from friction then... The wear is caused by acids which crstalize overnight in the head around valves etc. All you need to do to get the very best long life you can expect is idle the engine for 15 seconds before putting it in gear. This does two things - flushes the oil through the engine and gives the acid crystals a chance to vaporise before revving. Keep it simple! So no reason to wait till engine warms up before moving off. The reason for driving gently after a cold start is the differing expansion rates of various parts of the engine. Not known to be a problem with RBs though. Warm down is another story. The turbo gets mighty hot when you are boosting and should be given time off boost for the oil to circulate so as to prevent the oil burning, and to prevent the housing from contracting onto the turbine too fast on a freezing cold day. Finally make sure you use proper motor oil with detergents in it and not race oil, unless you change you oil ever 200km instead of 10,000km. Its not the friction we are scared of, its the combustion byproducts that get in the oil that mainly cause engine wear.

Does anyone know where in Sydney I can get the tabs that bolt under the top of the front bumper bar. I need to get my numberplate up out of the way of the intercooler. ............../ ___....../ ...... / shaped something like above - ignore the full stops they just provide spacing for the straight lines bolts to car from underneath.

Aside from idling stalls after starting and almost no response for first few seconds to full throttle: For 1/2 hour ran really well going out. On the way back 1/2 hour started doing the explosions in exhaust under boost again particularly after cruising at almost no throttle for a while. I'm sure the problem is the tune at idle cruise is at 10deg timing where it should be 15deg in drive, and also it is too rich. One thing though is that the gears seem to be changing properly now. According to the NGK guide I have Wet Fouling -causes- The fuel setting (A/F ratio) is rich. Faulty auto choke or dirty air cleaner elements. Idling for a long time. The spark timing is too late. The heat range of the plug is too cold. ~~ what I think I have~~~ plug too cold - tick - now fixed timing too late - I think at idle 10 deg advance is - tick idleing too long - was always in a gear that made it run at 1500rpm - tick running rich - exhaust was leaving black oily deposit in muffler pipe - tick So I guess a retune is in order. Will book it in tomorrow after a run with standard computer in to run the diagnostics checks and to check how the gearbox responds with standard ECU in place.

wow just put them in! My old plugs turned out to be NGK PFR6A-11 - absolutely fouled, really badly and right up past the seals too! The gap had grown to 1.3. I was told I had these plugs put in at compliance, but I very much doubt it since I was told they were gapped at 0.8mm and they arn't The car's response is much improved with the new plugs NGK Iridium BKR5EIX at 0.8mm, makes higher boost than before and faster. I threw some redline injector cleaner in the fuel tank after looking in through the spark plug hole there was a fair bit of black stuff on top of the piston. Due to this additive I'm not sure if it is running leaner but the exhaust does smell like it. Will be taking it for a 1 hour drive tonight to test if it continues to respond well once it gets really hot. Also the auto box kicks down properly on the 8 minute test run. I wonder if it is fixed as it is running a microtech LT-12 designed for manual but seems to work plug and play. Will let you know how it goes. If all goes well I'm off to get a dynotune on my next tank to ensure lean fuel ratios. If goes badly it is either a full manual conversion with GT3040 turbo or just rewire to piggyback the original ecu: It depends on whether I decide I need a R34gtr Vspec.

CroatianR33 the standard GTST uses 1.1mm so NGK iridium replacements are also 1.1mm gap BKR5EIX-11 but you can get them in 0.8, I just bought iridium 0.8 today as well. part number is BKR5EIX without any numbers after it comes pregapped at 0.8mm in this plug - is the standard gap!

gts4diehard what heat rating are your plugs now? For everyone else... Why are so many people using a lower heat rating than recommended?

what year model is the 35k price for?