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Bov

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Everything posted by Bov

  1. SydneyKid, Great run down. Im sure a lot of people appreciate it. One question if I may. I have just built a "knock box" with ears. Where is the best pick up point on the RB26 to mount the mic to detect any knock. Some say mid block near head base others say intake plenum? Cheers
  2. Love to see the Nisom Book thanks Greg
  3. For those who do have probs just check your soldering job. The tracks are very close in spots and thats necessary to keep the size of the unit down. Its very easy to short out a component if you are not careful. Use a magnifying glass to check the circuit board after its been built and clean the board after you have soldered the components with a small plastic brush to remove any metalic contaminants. Hope thats of some help Regards Bov
  4. Peter, All built and tested today. Works a treat using "Calumsult" on P4 XP pro. Thanks Heaps Regards Greg
  5. Jump onto Carsales.com One will turn up sooner or later Cheers Bov http://www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/....private_search
  6. Stu, Just get Chris Tanner to make you one. You can then build it as big as you like to fit what room you have. He has done two for my clubmans and does a very neat job. "Ultra cooling" Regards Greg
  7. Just a comment regarding atmo BOV's on page one. There was referrence to "crankcase emissions" and that they are not allowed to be released to atmosphere but need to go to a catch tank. Well the BOV does not release crankcase emissions. Crankcase emissions only exist after the air (and importantly fuel) so air fuel mixture, enter the engine in the throttle bodies. The BOV releases compressed air and thats all as it exists in the system well before any fuel and hence "crankcase emission" exists. Go through that one with your friendly cop and he will have a flea in his ear - wont know what you are talking about unless he is an enthusiast. Cheers
  8. Troj, Will PM you. Cheers Bov
  9. I have one. There were only 560 built. The 1990 Nismo can be identified because it has not rear wiper, no ABS. Vin Numbers start BNR32100001 to BNR 32100560 They have Nismo adjustable dampers and the speedo has NISMO written on it. They have metal turbine blades not ceramic. I can send you more info if you need it. If its in good condition $25,000.00 would be a bargain. Their value will only go through the roof. A good investment. Cheers Bov
  10. Is it a genuine Nismo? You need to know the VIN number. Regards Bov
  11. Duncan, Do you know of any Aussy built or supplied controllers? Appreciate any info. Cheers Bov
  12. Probably easier to have it translated. By the way, where did you pick it up from. Ive been looking for one for a long time now. Cheers Bov
  13. Believe it or not but I have similar clips and a "flare" is clipped to them. I guess its a road safety thing - if thats what you are referring to? Bov
  14. Here is some scientific info. Seems Acetone is already used in some fuel products. I recon its worth a go. Cheers Bov
  15. Some of the race guys in our club use acetone to boost octane rating in their turbo cars. Seems to work fine. Never seen an engine suffer because of it. Its a lot cheaper than manufactured octane booster And be buggered if I can catch them! But there is a risk in everything eh? Cheers Bov
  16. Must have the rear wing and the slipper wing on the boot (as per original Group A spec). They look cool. Bov
  17. Spray everything electrical with CRC Then let it sit for half a day. Then give it a go Cheers Bov
  18. Keep an eye on it. You should not be using any coolant fluid at all. If it keeps going down take it to a repair shop and have the radiator pressure tested. If you are loosing pressure then thats where your coolant is going. It will either be lost in one of two places - leaks in the coolant hoses or at worst a leaking head gasket. The fix for the latter is to replace the head gasket. Cheers Bov
  19. Compressor is there to cool the air (like a refigerator). The heater unit is located within the climate control box under the dash and is water fed. It should still heat ok. Cheers Bov
  20. I had a similar thing happen to me last weekend. I fitted a new Alpine sound system. Went to use the heater and all I got was HOT all the time. Did a self diagnostic check on the climate control it indicated a short in the PBR. Error code was -26. What had happenned was when I fitted the stereo I crushed a climate control wire and it shorted. After pulling out the hardware (stereo and climate control unit) I wiggled the wires a bit and put it back together. Did another dig. check and it had fixed itself. Gues the wire straightned itself out. The diagnostic procedure is documented in the R32 manual - available on this site - somewhere. Cheers Bov
  21. Sam, Depending on the date Id be interested. Cheers
  22. Could be you overflowed at the filler neck and the excess fuel drained away from the filler housing. Leaks dont usually stop until the fluid has all drained away. Keep an eye on it thought Cheers
  23. Yep same problem. On cruise my gauge dropped to almost nothing. Thought I had wrecked me engine. New sender unit and oil pressure was back again. Cheers
  24. Results Posted on CMI Site. http://www.cmitas.org/ Cheers
  25. Alternator bearing on its way out. They all fail sooner or later. Try a squirt of CRC into the alternator whilst its running. Can sometimes stop the noise and keep it going for a few months or so. At the end of the day you will need to replace the shaft bearing. Easy job. Cheers Bov
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