Denver

depends on what model garrett it is, eg, my gt30, is most efficient at 1.5 bar, which is some 22-23 psi, so you'll find they do offer warranty if the turbo is meant to be working around those pressures...

ran toyo r888's for the dutton last yr, but have also run re540 and re555 varients, toyos are good for cold off the mark grip and last pretty well, but re555's IMHO are a slightly better tyre for grip, they just wear quickly

Bump, stuff still sitting around, REASONABLE offers considered, hot tip, $200 is not a reasonable offer for what is essentially a brand new oil pump..

Got a few things to go.. N1 oil pump, 1500km old, im upgrading to a jun pump in this revision of the motor, it did about 500km of road driving, and then the WA dutton rally, which was about 15km of competition time and the other 900 odd km was driving around the place, is in excellent condition, will come with a new front oil seal installed, cost me $500, yours for $300.. Set of stocker RB26 rods, good condition, unknown km old as they came with a bottom end i bought, they also ran in revision no 1 for 1500km, hassle free, chasing $200 set of stock rb26 cams, and cam gears, $200 anyone interested, contract me via pm, or ring 0411 59 49 48, will express post pack parts to you, all but the cams should fit into a 3kg post pack at $10 cheers

sydneykid can answer this better, as i posed a very simular question to him a while back.. but in short, for every bigger cam profile yo go, expect the useable rev range to move higher, 256's will come in at say 4k rpm, 264's at 5k rpm and 272's at 6... just means where thye become effective moves a lot higher.. i perosnally went for 264's on his recomendation, and with positive pressure being created by 2800 rpm on a rb26 with a gt3040R, with stock timing and no cam gear tinkering, it seems like advice well said.. 252/264 for low end and mid range, 272 if you wanna go drag racing or want big top end

Definately fill out a cop report.. I had the same thing happen to my old rex, someone backed into it, then did a runner, luckily someone who sort of knew me, saw it happen, grabbed his rego and gave it to me.. Went to the cop shop that night, filled out the report, and finally a month and a bit later i had the guys details, so i went around there and confronted him, he tried to deny it all, until i pointed out i had witnesses to it all and he'd best be in touch with his insurance to sort it out.. Anyway he kept trying to dodge it, until by chance he happened to be talking to his panel beater, which happened to be my panel beater, who reminded him he was so pissed that night he drove into his own wall so he'd better sort my car out.. chase it up witht he cops..

You can safely bvore out a 26 to 88mm, but, its all down to how much power you intend to make, if your only looking at 350-400 you'll probably never have an issue, if you start pushing on it and go for 500+ then eventually, you might end up with a cracked block.. Age of the block is a factor here too, if its an older block from say a 89/90 32, it'll be stronger than a newer block due to the metal ageing/hardening up over time with the heat cycling.. Personally i wouldn't use wiseco pistons, or anything yank, they spec largeish clearances, which are all well and good in a nascar where you'll get enough heat into the thing so it expands to not rattle, the jap pistons spec clearances usually close to factory piston to bore requirements, mainly due to the makeup of the raw material used in there pistons, not expanding as much as the yank gear.. Price wise, if you get stuff from greenline.jp the jap gear is also about the same cost as the yank gear too..

A speedo sender to suit a navara will work fine in the 25 box with the s13 dash.. Theres no need to mod the box cross member, a cross member to suit a silvia auto box will bolt in without needing to touch it and suit the 25 box..

thats pretty much how it is anyway, driveway warranty, onc eon the road, your on your own..

This is true, but, its still a standard within a single brand.. NOT a widely used and proven method of power reading between multiple brands..

I haven't really paid much attention to this round of the whole street race thing, so i can't comment, but id say no.. That said, the street race thing won't happen, not for a while anyway fro a number of reasons 1> WASCC have a contract with AVESCO, for a number of years to hold a v8 round at waneroo, i think they signed a 5 yr contract last yr?, i can't remember exactly 2> A street race would require, a LARGE amount of money to be spent modifying intersections, and resrufacing various roads to bring them up to spec to hold a race on them, no one wants to cover this, AVESCO sure as hell won't, PCC won't cover it as they're not the ones wanting the event, and unless a private company puts up a lot of cash, no on will cover the bill 3> The WASCC will argue long hard and fast about any form of street circut, because if they lose the v8's, they sink, simple as that, without the v8 event, they WILL go broke, they know this, up until the trucks returned, and then drifting, the v8's was the ONLY event, the WASCC ran that made a proffit, trucks return a small proffit, and now drifitng has been accepted, it also brings in a proffit every event, however, its nothing like the few mil the WASCC pocket from the v8's.. Put simple, AVESCO want a street race, no one else really does.. Now the main reason why AVESCO want a street race, money We'll look at the Wanneroo event for an example All the gate takings, go to the WASCC, any corprate box, private box etc etc hire for the V8 event, goes to the WASCC, if it goes to a street circut, the WASCC, gets nothing, AVESCO takes all, the club sinks.. AVESCO realise this, and made a token offering of some 350k to the WASCC for supply of officials and so forth, which is a pittance on what the WASCC would normally make from a v8 event... Perth really doesn't have the streets to run an event on anyway, we don't have any nice curbing high speed useable roads like adelaide or indy etc, ours are all bland straight lumps of road with 90 degree bends, its be a boring as hell race, wanners would still piss all over it for track layout, even when you consider that wanners blows compared to most other tracks in aus..

Without trying to start a flame war, so people hold on, this isn't an attack, mearly discussion.. The DD shootout mode thing IMHO, is a bit of a crock, shootout as far as ive ever been able to tell from a lot of reading, is a dyno dynamics thing only.. Now while, it does offer a large semblance of simularity between accredited DD dynos, its till, only a standard implemented within dyno dynamics units only, no one else. If there was a standard that was implemented between all dyno's, then its a standard, when its limited to one brand, its not really a standard, just a given that that particular brand, will be within a certain % to every other unit out therer... That is where i feel, the DD unit falls down with its claim to be the best, YES, it has implemented a standard, but it is its OWN standard, that no one else uses, why, im not sure, possibly because others feel the maths/calculations to it are wrong, or simply because other makers feel there is no need for a standard.. Personally im not a fan of it, dyno's are trickable, and always will be when you have stuff like external probes which can be fooled, and give a higher/incorrect reading, a la the eddie tasone 1800hp figure... Guess it still boils down to dynos being a tuning tool, everyone will have there favorite brand..

Not so much a loophole, basically, it comes down to a tuner trying to force you to come home, or stop others seeing his work, however, he is technically breaking the law, by denying you access to your property... A smart tuner however, should be able to compare the old tune and the one in the ecu and see any differences, unless the owner has been smart, and reloaded the old tune, however, im, pegging most ECU's will have a form of logging that shows when maps where changed/updated or loaded, so you could see if funny games have been going on.. You can actually, i usually find when the words "lawyer" and "legal action" are used, people give up the passwords, VERY quickly.. Interlectual property is a grey area, but the simple fact is, you pay for it, you get access to it, if someone locks you out of your own property, you have the right to claim compo and all other manner of cash bonus's back to yourself for the hardship and agrovation suffered..

Its more to get return business im guessing, or to avoid other tuners getting the info off the ecu of your tune However, its actually your property, the tune that is, you've paid good money for the tune, the intelectual property is yours, someone denying you access to what is leggally is yours, is a big no no.. Its the same as getting someone to write a program for you, the property is yours..

I don't really think im being overly hard.. Given ross roberts, from what ive been told by reliable people, isn't his real name.. This is the same spanker, who was behind the original push for a city based v8 race, and sucked in guys like mike rasheed <old owner of the deen, universal etc> into believing his dream, then shafted them once they'd poured a good slab of money into things and it went titsup.com.. Somehow, hes managed to convince the ricadello clan the track will happen, to the point they bought a formular nippon car, several years ago now, so far its only been on the track once AFAIK, at wanneroo... I have no doubt this track will never happen..

This is the fabled track, that will never happen.. http://www.pimm.org claims that in october "within days", a whole wack of earth moving gear went down there, speaking to a mate there, nothing has happened as yet.. as ive said all along, it will never happen, and ross roberts is a con man, nothing more..

Motec and Autronic, are both australian, and both have been in countless cars that run low low numbers..

Id really like to know how the laws are worded, so they can take your car, given its actually your property, and you own it, so its not exactly something, someone by rights, like the police, should be able to take off you.. oddly enough i happened to be waiting for a tow truck one night to take away a car someone i knew was driving, while waiting, the copper tried to crap on about the laws, and my conversation with him went like this me: "i don't see how, LEGALLY, you can take someones car, as well, they own it" cop:"well, its the same as the proceeds of crime act" me:"arr, no, tjhe proceeds of crime act was to remove property, that has been purchased, thrugh the sale of drugs and so forth, its nothing like busting someone for doing a skid" cop:"yes it, its the same law" me:"no, one is for drug dealers, the other has no basis, i don't think legally you can do it" cop:"it is, and thats it" at that point he walked away, so it seems they don't even really know.. if they do try to take it witht he laws regarding to the proceeds of crime, i seriously doubt theyd have any legal footing to take a car if someone challenged it in court.. given it seems its mostly shit boxes that have been taken, the owners don't seem too phased to make a legal challenge about it, however, its only a matter of time when they take something of value, and it gets challenged in court..

It was a pretty bland and feature less ecu in its early varients, the v4 and now v5/500 have a few more added bonus's to them than the earlier versions.. But as for why most people/workshops didn't like it, tuning them takes/took a lot longer than most other ecu's, it was very time consuming to get right, and things like cold start took a lot of playing around to get it to a point the car would start every time without having to crank it for ages.. The other aspect as to why it has a bad rep in perth mainly is that the local support for it was somewhat lacking.. Add to that, most shops will not tune them anymore.. Im sure with the newer revisons and more features to come it may make a bit of a comeback, but options like the PFC, which is cheaper and a lot easier to tune will always proove a lot more popular with most users..

Silvio, ONALL4Z, lancer evo hybrid something, 10.1, motec and current fastest 4wd pass by a local

Are you sure? i was of the understanding there are wiring difference between the s1 and s2 33's etc, mainly to do with the igniter module..

You can use a RB25 PFC to drive a 20, provided its to suit a series one r33, not a series two, as there is a few wiring changes in the loom, however the series 1 loom is identical to the 20 loom, except for the added output to control the variable cam, which you just disable within the PFC.. if you sanp up the series 1 PFC you will also score the handcontroller with it, the AP engineering rb20 PFC did not come with the hand controller as stock..

depends on what you want, if you want a stockish car, and no wank, go a PFC, or a lumpy/bikirom, will behave like stock, drive like stock, and handle your extra power, otherwise go the autronic or motec route if you want to spend some decent fold, both will suit your requirements and more..

I think you'll find they are very mcuh different the front rails in a 4wd varient car are shaped differently to allow the front half shafts to clear, without slaming into the chasis rails, if you tried to put a gt-r subframe into a gts-t you'll suddenly find the front end a heap higher, and if you stuck the gts-t subframe into the gt-r body itd probnably have its nose on the floor this is why you NEED to use the 26 mounts to mount another RB vareitn into the gt-r, same goes for a gts-4, stagea etc

Ill post something useable the GT-R and GTS-T cross members are vastly different, due to the gt-r x-member being designed to deal with the front half shafts to fit the 25, you will need the 26 enging mounts and attach them to the 25, thats the whole mount, the rubber bush part and the solid cast ally mount part... as for the front shafts, there are a couple of options, you will need to get a set of gts-t hubs, as the gt-r is actually part of the asembly to help keep the hub attached to the car, remove the shaft and the nut holding it all together, the wheel will fall off, simpkle as that.. to save going to the hassle of swapping hub assemblies, find a gt-r sump or gts4/stagea etc, basically anything 4wd in that range, HOWEVER, the sump will not bolt up to a normal 25, unless that 25 came from a 4wd model, as the bolt patterns between the 4wd and RWD 25's vary, the 25's only haver a bolt pattern to suit a steel sump, where as the 4wd 25's, like the 26's have both bolt patterns to suit the rwd or 4wd sumps.. beyond that its all pretty simple, gearbox crossmember, to fit a 25 box in, you'll probably need an auto silvia bolx cross member to avoid having to butcher/make a normal rb20/25 cross member working witht he 25 box, im guessing yours already has this tho.. as pointed out, you'd be better off selling everything and sourcing a 26 cut to slot in if your getting a rolling shell.. or just import another gts-t out of japan, or, locate another shell out of japan and swap all the parts over, and re register as a repaired wreck..