Denver

the guy has no coin, and no hope of getting a track happening, hes been resfused at every location hes tried for and has caused the WA sporting car club no end of hassle.. in short, ignore anything he has to say..

If its been a while since a pad change, some pads have a metal tag attached tot he side of them which will start rubbing on the rotor when its time to get new pads, only prob is theres usually another 10k worth of pad life oleft so i used to just bend the tag out the way when it happened.. best to pop the hweel off and have a look at all your pads, and check for anything out of place, or pop down to your local mechanic and get them to give it a check over.. cheers

If you pop down to the new freo motor museam, you can see one of these marvels down there, rosco mcglashan the aussie world land speed record holder, has one of these, it did 5.97 down the 1/4.. yes, 5.97 on a go kart.. can't use it in Oz as the US govt considers the fuel can be used in war.. boo hiss..

Nice work jashy, be nice to see that thing at full boost and power finally, it sat in the shop waiting long enough for it to happen.. bring on the 1k mark and maybe perths first 9 second 4wd pass, might give the eastern states boys something to think about..

Gts its more that 540's react to the VHT and do the opsite and become more skatey than they do grippy..

Its all i use now days on my car, using them for normal street punting feel a lot safer due to the extra grip.. anyway, as a track tyre, there fantastic, for the drags as everyone has pointed out, they arn't so flash, but if your serious about the drags, buy slicks, simple.. As for wear, how long is a piece of string, i usually get around 6 months a set, street driving and a pile of events, for normal street driving you'd probally get 20 thousand out of them, but it depends on how you treat them, and thew downside to street driving is with the heat cycles they get hard, my last set after there 6 month tour of duty where tops for drifting a 4wd, not so hot for grip when i wanted it.. So there not that good a daily if you want to hammer them at the same time.. usually a better idea to keep them on a second set of rims, and swap them over when you need them..

Jash has a rather bitey tripple plate OS in that thing from memory, when they bite, they bite hard and on a stock box, launching some 7-800 horse at 7 grand will destroy it in a flash.. the 34 when it ran only had a twin plate hks clutch which is more an organic than a brass button, and was rated for 600hp not 800, so it would slip a little, extending the life of the stock box.. its the same thing all the rex guys do, go and stuff a brass button into it, pop the clutch and boom there goes first, ive left mine stock, done an untold number of hard launches from 4000 rpm to 5500 and it never blew first, the box still goess, all be it rather noisily now after 50,000 clicks.. a sacraficial clutch is better than replacing a box..

S14 666 perhaps?.. some bastard got WRX 666 before i could so i could continue witht he 666 theme after my TX3 666 plates

Our place is worse, 4 people, 9 cars.. 2x 1927 pontiacs in bits waiting to be restored austin 7 in same state my 4wd tx3 which is a shell on its side in a rotisarie old ladys falcon sisters camry my rex and in the driveway dads van and my satria for work.. we need a bigger garage, we've run out space in this one

the plates rules are odd at times, im told its legalish to have a sticker plate BUT, it must have the same reflective appearance as a genuine plate, so when you get done by a camera for speeding it picks it up.. could be wrong, but i knew a few people with plates done by a friend of mine and they have had no trouble.. its also legal to have your plate mounted off center, mine is off to the right like the japs usually do, rhe tule being it has to be visible within 15 degree's either side of the centre of the front from a certain distance..

The wide body kit on that beasty looks pretty tidy.. fairly hauls too, he was at wanneroo for race scar getting it filmed, almost went for a large excursion off the track in style but managed to save it..

Friend who bought one of my old tx3's had this sort of hassle.. his gf was driving at the time and got pulled over as they heard the stupidly loud ssr BOV.. cop proceeded to pop the bonnet then tell her that lasers never came with a turbo motor and 4wd.. ignorance is a wonderful thing..

Erg, having bought a car once that had a shortened shifter, yeach, never again, unless you get a propper short shift kit, which uses a normal length gear stick, it just changes the pivot point, you'll be regretting it, the short gearstick looks cute but i found it a pain on a regular basis when changing gears having to reach for a tiny stick which didn't give the right leverage

for everyones benifit ill just do one post for this.. Steve, seeing as one of the inhouse SR which had the liners move around on it lasted some 8000km, several sprint events where it had the living hell beaten out of it, a number of autokhans and a couple of nav rallies BEFORE the issue reared its ugly head, then yes it is entirely possible for it last this long before the excessive slap broke down the piston skirts... and as for stopping the bull, every post i make on matters like this i provide the plain facts, you on the other hand do nothing but say its all bull, and not to just myself but others who dispute you, yet never bother to provide any examples or information to back up your claims of it being a load of rubbish... if your going to argue someone on a technical level, provide technical information, or don't bother making a bold claim at all.. and as i pointed out in my previous post, if it was tuning, it would have died a long time ago, and once again just for you, ill clarify.. ive only said that its likely to be a failure caused by machining, i have never ruled out that it could have been a part or block failure, and i don't intend to until a clear reason as to why the engine failed is found.. Your right, its been clearly stated right here, there are no rumours, no white lies, everything i state is plain fact, not a made up fallacy, if you can't handle that, then don't read what i have to say.. John did a lot of silly things, but the jun gear has clearly proven itself as quality parts, and seeing as jun have racked up themselves a large number of records over the years would tend to point out that they would know what they are on about.. Actually to make it easy to understand, heres why i can make a statement like that.. Junichi tanaka owns a group of companies, called, funnily enough, Tanka industries, now, obviously JUN is one of his off shoots, but i bet you didn't know that Tanaka industries supplies OEM parts to the likes of nissan?.. well now you do, which i guess explains why they have such a wealth of knowledge, and the ability to produce high quality parts.. As for your cams, that would be the jun cams you went to fit into a car, and didn't think re shimming them was required, as they should 'just bolt straight in', well they didn't did they, you needed shims, but that was all to hard to understand.. And you absolutely right steve HKS and trust gear is good stuff, JUN themselves use it so i guess we do agree on one thing.. a lot of people never knew jun existed until recently, i certainly didn't until a few years ago, the same goes for a lot of japanese parts supplies and tuning houses, and you won't know unless you bother looking.. theres a whole world of stuff out there australia doesn't know about, yet.. But comming from someone who belives a wolf ECU is a high quality unit, what would you care about the japanese shops as you clearly know what good gear is, hell, a wolf is far superior to something like, say a motec, isn't it.. Get over it steve, if your not going to bother providing the REAL story, and not a load of as you word it 'bull' don't bother typing anything, clearly you eitherhave no idea, or actually are trying to hide the truth yourself.. maybe i should send scully and mulder your way to find out what truth is out there.. ive happily layed what i know on the line, your the 'expert' as you claim, and know all, yet never pop anything factual out to back up your claims, how bout starting, i might give you some credibility that you know what your doing then..

when the results of the analysis come back im sure speedworks won't have an issue in divilging the problem, i can pretty much guantee it wasn't a tuning fault as theres no way it would have gone 8 months, producing the power it was, and doing it reliably, if there was such a massive tuning fault to cause an engine failure a massive 8 months later, if the tuning was so bad, it would have failed in around 8 minutes.. as for clearances, as i pointed out, every clearance other than ovaltion of the bore was checked, which is something 90% of people who build motors DON'T check, as the asumption is made the machinist has done his job right, in this case it was an asumption that was wrong, however now the problem has been found and rectified, it no longer exists, and they religiously check each motor as it comes back from a machinist.. as for tangy, well he said a lot of things and pissed of a few people, but hes no longer a part of the company and back in singapore, so now days all you get is the plain facts.. JUN gear is of a very high quality, however if something else isn't right, even the best bits can look like a smoking heap of crap, and as ive also said before, theres also the chance it was just plainly a component failure, ive just indicated its highly likely, given that the other motors done for inhouse stuff had the same machining problems and could be a possible explanation, speedwork arn't claiming that its 100% a machining fault until an analysis is done of the motor..

Well we are all only human, but the machine itself was at fault, not the person driving it, as it seems more than just speedworks have had motors with un-circular bores dealing with the same company.. seems to have been an issue for a while, and in true spirit of some places the 'shel'll be right' motto came on board, instead of fixing the problem..

Differences of over 50 microns actually, theres more to this that im not going to divulge, but the machine work is definately at question, given motors are motors and it could just be a failure of rod/block etc, but the tuning was never out as the power would indicate, it never pinged, so id say the 2 days worth of tuning spent on the thing where pretty spot on.. seeing as it had internals for 1200 neddies, it wasn't even near it full 'keen' capabilities..

Well yeah, the other motors that failed where sr20's owned by the guys at speedworks and not as in the case of the 34, a customer car, and basically the same problem, bores to out of round and incorectly tapered, but in this case, these sr20's had liners installed to handle the extra power demands, and due to the nature of the liner being interferance fit, and the bore holding the liner not providing the right amount of interferance, the liner moves around, breaks the seal with the head gasket, and water get into the bore.. they've since changed machinist and are religiously checking every bore that comes in now for ovality and taper, anoyingly in the case of the 34, every other measurement got checked, eg bearing cap crush ring gap etc etc, the only thing not check was the ovality and taper of the bore, something im sure 90% of motor builders wouldn't check as the assumption is that the machinist has done his job right.. whats the saying, assumtion is the mother of all stuffups..

I understand you exactly where you comming from, my main point being that every car is different, and a twist on the CAS can result in anything from 1-2 degree's to 10-15 degree's of advance in one foul swoop, given the nissan ecu in stock form will detect the knock long before it becomes a large ping, but this will only result in a loss of power not a gain.. im just a fan of checking simple things like that, and as you said it, every car will have a nice point where it gets good power and response, but won't put the engine in the danger zone of detonating and knocking causing the ecu to knock everything back down.. main point being that unless as you have, done it a thousand time on the same car, checking first then gradually moving things around until it seems spot on, then checking again to see where eveything is set, is smarter than unbolting, twisting, and having no idea if you just wound in 5 deg of advance, or 15..

Rev, and your original reference point is?.. its good practice to check before and after where you have started, its all well and good to move it, but what if you wind on some 10+ degree's of advance without knowing it and suddenly get detonation, its a bit hard to go back to where you began if you didn't check it.. power and response may be better, but at what cost if it starts pinging because theres to much advance..

Excessive ovalation of the bore, outside of the allowable tolerances, causing blow by and excessive piston slap.. and the car is being repaired at no cost to the owner and the matter being taken up witht he machinist, along with the other work that he did which has failed..

When it went together there wasn't the time to spend a few hours checking all the measurements, not with the 2ic of JUN waiting there to tune it, and as the machinist gave his word that the machining would be spot on, it was trusted he did his job properly.. The same comment could be made about adjusting timing with a ratchet, and not bothering to check with a timing light to see the original timing and the new adjustment, but i won't point that out will I..

The owner isn't that confident with going flat out, and doesn't feel he has the ability to make the car do what it can do just yet.. That and hes a bit of a voyer and likes to watch it in action going in a straight line i guess..

It has spat the motor as most know, the failure atm seems likely to have been caused by the lack luster machining that was done on the block, and a few others at the time until the lack of quality in the machine work was discovered, anoyingly it blew just before the motor was going to be pulled out, checked, and the problem with the poor machining work, if it was there, resolved, (owner wanted to go for a last few runs at the drags before he went home for a holiday). It should be back in action shortly, the other problem with it is the stock gearbox, and the 99% chance it will fail shortly due to the power output of the motor, a dog box is the owners next purchase, and that will take somewhere between 8-12 weeks to get one made within oz, and a few weeks to source a unit from japan, and given the hasles the stock box gave when it ran 11.1, itd be better to have a box that will work cleanly so as to make a full power pass worth while of getting kicked out, itd be anoying to see it go just under 10.99 and not do a run near its full capabilities, which is somewhere down to a very low ten and possibly on a perfect run, a high 9..

Strangely this came up in convo the other day at the track, the rb25 boxen will hold the power a tad better, the guys said common power handling was around the 700 horse mark, so it sohuld handle your current output fairly well..