Denver

only ever seen them with auto's behind them... AFAIK they didn't get sold with a manual option.. and every combo we've tried doesn't work, rb/vg/sr etc boxes all have a different bell housing setup, the VQ boxes might go but not sure.. however locally in perth someones developped an adaptor plate to slap a 25 box behind it, well any RB box really, but 25 for the strength, needs a custom flywheel, but its workable, PM me if you need more info on who to speak to

happy birthday the offer of kinky hanging on to the roll cage sex applies for you as well!

Franz any myself will be loading my 33 onto a truck and sending it over for the race to the pie event, from the sounds of it, it'll be a blast

4 door indeed, spose you could hang off the roll cage bars

dan lets just forget the dinner, your place or mine?

ohhh missed it, happy birthday dan you sexy thing

couple hundred bucks, if your chasing a set i have some, with gears, no bolts, but if your selling, they don't seem to move fast

ive got one of the even later revisions of simons manifold, the gate pipe is in a revised location, fixing the boost creep issues the early version had, and the wall thickness is a lot thicker than the early china mani's that came out, welding is a lot better, more filler used than just butt welding the pipes together.. one thing that did need doing, is getting all the surfaces faced so they where nice and flat. so far so good, haven't really done much with it as yet <only done the dutton rally> but given simons has lasted thus far, id say they'll cop a beating now.. like everything china ia making, the first version blows, but the later ones catch up with the real deal, bang foy buck, time you replace a couple of them if they crack, your still better off $ wise, because even with 2 replacements your in front of the real unit, and probably still getting simular life span from it..

i wouldn't use redline to start a fire.. don't bother bandaiding the gearbox, get a 25 box in it, use real oil, not processed smurf turf, and you'll be happy as larry..

its an r32, probably only has a rb20 in it.. as for the conversion, its not overly complicated, keep the engine mounts, and mounting plates from the 20, and bolt them to the 26, ecu should not be a massive hassle to wire in the stock unit, at a guess, it'll plug into the factory loom without any mods, tho don't quote me on it, but given its a 32, you'll find rhge primary looms are pretty identical throughout the series, and swapping motors is just a matter of pluuging the 26 ecu/engine loom into the factory loom as is.. things you will run into hassle with.. gearbox, forget using the 20 box, you'll kill it in a flash, you'll need an rb25 box, they're about $1500 atm, to get it mounted without butchering a factory gearbox cross member, chance are, an auto silvia cross member will fit up without having to re-drill or weld tabs on as is normally done, you'll also need to sort out the speedo drive, but a navara speedo drive goes straight in and fixes the issue.. the other big issue is the sump, the standard GT-R sump will not fit, you will need to chop the diff off, smooth it down and weld up the old holes that the front diff shaft leaves when its removed, not an overly complicated task, but it takes a fair while of band sawing and sanding it down.. rought cost estimations.. complete cut about 6k 25 box 1.5k labour? if you get a complete cut that has the factory cooler, pipe work etc, it should realistically take a good workshop a few days to remove the 20, remove the 26 from the cut, mod the sump, swap over the required parts and drop it back in... its a pretty straight forward swap.. add to it an exhaust, a new clutch while its all out, and your on the way.. what you can do to make some money back, is sell off the gt-r box, usually they go for about 1k to 1300 bux depending on condition.. trick to it all is finding a good condition cut, and having it come with all the parts needed, but id say, you'll be up for about 10k all up to pull it off..

because the air instead of passing straight through, swirls around in the now empty cat, causing turbulance and slowing the air flow through it.. better to get a cat replacement pipe made up, or smashing a piece of pipe the right dia through the old hollowed out cat, so its basically a pieve of pipe inside and not a hollow chamber..

big end by sounds of it, either way its not sounding healthy, don't drive it, and get it towed to the shop

probably all in the launch, gt-r im guessing gets out of the hole better than the DR did, meaning it gets a good first 1/4 of the track but looses out on the top end mph, where as the dr might be boggy/wheel spinning out of the hole, but has the bigger mph to get to an almost identical time..

just shy of 200hp loss, in RWD mode? righhhhtttttt your maths is incredibly wrong somewhere, or your dyno reads incredibly low, 200hp of loss is a MONSTEROUS amount..

possibly look at pulling the plug off all together and plugging the wires directly into the injector pins, also check to see if they are pulsing, should be able to feel it through the body the injecter, or if not, grab a screw driver and pop your ear ont he end to listen for them clicking

if your going to use them, get them cleaned and tested for flow rates so you have a somewhat more accurate way of knowing just what they _really_ are

www.greenline.jp set of 6 squirters will set you back about 6-700 bucks..

Before everyone gets way off the mark here.. Drive train losses remain static, they do not change, give or take a hp or two, due to better oils etc.. Don't follow the % rule, its wrong, and % losses calculated by coast down calcualtions are incorrect.. best way to explain this is like so, roughly a RWD car will loose about 25ish hp, as your only driving a couple of gears in the box, at 1 to 1 ratio, and the diff gears, so, if your car is making 200hp to begin with, you could say roughly, your making is 230 at the fly wheel, if you then mod the motor, but alter nothing in the driveline, and it now makes 400 at the wheels, its only going to make 430 at the fly wheel, not 460 for example if you where to use the % rule.. Automatic, and 4wd losses are higher, due to the nature in which they operate, but again the figures remain pretty constant, better oils, or driveline components alter this, but again the figure doesn't really move a heck of a lot, it remainds pretty constant, unless of course something is broken, and there is greater friction.. the 60kw figure quoted before im pretty sure is the loss you'll see from a gt-r in 4wd mode, as 60kw is a LOT of power loss for a manual RWD car.. also, a large portion of the driveline loss you see on rolling road dynos, is from the tyres, stuff like over/under inflation of the tyres, weight in the car, and tyre wrap around on the roller affect the figures, so if you dyno your car one day with the tyres at 36psi, then a week later they've gone down to 20psi, you will see less power, as the tyre is wraping around the roller more, more wrap, more friction, more friction the more power needed to over come it, so a lower reading will be seen, hub dynos eliminate this, which is why you will always see a slighly higher reading, and in some cases a bigger reading by comparision to a roller, as you eliminate wheel spin on the roller..

i preferred the channel 7 coverage of things, bathurst was a classic example, you'd get 2 full days of coverage, and theyd show everything, all the support races, the dirvers lap aorund the track for the spectators, everything that went on.. now days you get the top ten shootut, and the race, and two hours of woods and compton rattling on, channel ten stuffed it.. classic example was the v8 round in wa a couple weeks ago, some of the historic and saloon car races where absolute rippers, the v8 races where so utterly boring i had trouble staying awake on the first race on saturday, and actually fell asleep for most of the last race on sunday.. the support clases had much better entertainment.. im gunna peg avesco don't want that shown tho, as people might pay more attention to the interesting racing, compared to a bunch of riced up taxi's which share nothing in common with the cars they're based on winning races in the pits, unless you punt the other guy off.. touring cars now days is utter shite, bring back group A

300ish at ten pound, with a limit set at 6k, as the thing was running out of fuel, was tuned safe as it was entered int he dutton rally and i hadn't had time to complete the propper fuel system for it, im about to get stuck back into it shortly, so ill post up the power and a graph when its done properly, im only aiming for 4-450 needies and that will be ample to bake the rears for drifting, which is what the ca ris mainly intended for with some circut racing and stuff like dutton rallies thrown in for fun

Congrats dude!, like pie i also feared the worst, but good work, your a STUD!

Im running a 3040r garrett on my 26, with a .82 rear housing, jun 264 deg cams with 9.2mm lift, china hi mount manifold, 50mm greddy gate, no adjustment of cams gears, no timing in the tune, boost was coming on high in the 2k range, like 2800-2900 and on song around 33-3400.. a 3040 is still good for 600hp, so its hardly a small turbo, and if like myself your chasing response, a better way to go, i was considering a 3540, but after chatting to sydneykid about it, he felt the 3040 would be better to achieve my goal of boost by 3k

hmmm, do you intend to run it in the way of, air from atmo into the first smaller turbo, outlet of that into the inlet of the second bigger turbo, witht he exhaust of the motor driving the big turbo, and exhaust of that driving the smaller one? or do you want to run it in a switch manner, smaller turbo comes on then the second one fires up after and adds in via a switching mech?

If you did a shared exhaust manifold setup, like that 4g63 has, itd be entirely possible IMHO the size of the turbos on that 4g is exactly the sort of spec youd want

R33 Fan box, and air conditioning box, from the under the dash, dash climate control <digital from memory>, dry air reciever, air conitioning rad, and air con lines, no air con compressor, $300 the lot, will seperate R33 4 door carpet, good condition, dark grey in colour $150 All the plastic pillar trims, A B and C pillars, black in colour, all in excellent condition, no marks, nothing screwed into them $100 each for the a/b pillar trim, drivers side has been sold $90 each for the c pillar trim $90 each for the lower B pillar trims $30 each for the kick pannels Set of holy fark bars all 3 in black again $80 Roof lining, light grey, excellent condition, $90 Set of australian compliance seat belts, 3 rear belts, 2 front belts, all the buckles included but the drivers seat buckle $200 R33 Electric Hicass rack $50 R33 series 1 4 door boot spoiler $50 R33 rear plastic speaker mounts $20 R32 GT-R Cams and cam gears, good condition, no marks, $250 All parts are located in perth, all reasonable offers considered, PM me if interested, or call on 0411 59 49 48 if the parts are not listed, its not for sale