Denver

Depends where it hit, if it belted directly into the front of the car and ijto the motor, without a doubt it'd require at a minimum a full tear down to check everything for straightness or internal damage.. beyond that, if the motor has shifted back, this means one, or both of the chasis rails has moved, meaning it has EXTENSIVE structural damage and i would highly recomend you turn it into parts

hard to say with the pics supplied if you have some more you could show of the destruction thatd be handy, and what did the other pistons look like etc? and could you describe what you where doing at the time, was it making nosie leading up to its death, stuff like that

Who has done this mod before?, and are there any pics of it?, curious to see what it looks like.. as for the breathing problem, im about to construct a breather setup for my 26 that will have both the cam cover lines venting into a box that will have a baffle plate setup to allow the oil and air to seperate, venting the air to atmosphere through a filter, but also running a return line from the bottom of the catch can back to the sump..

updated

not necasarily, even if its spun a bearing, the oil filter, should do its job and catch the debrie, if its busted a piston it may not have damaged the bores, and depending on how bad the staration was it might have only lightly scored the bores.. but given its an rb20, just get a bare motor, and swap all your manifols etc over, should only set you back a few hundred bucks for a bare long motor

just try a small amount of vasoline on them, should work the trick..

sounds like a big end failure, which if it took 1.5 litres of oil to top it up, would certainly make me lean that way.. rb's are pretty tempramental when it comes to oil..

AFAIK there arn't many companies in aus that do it, atleast reliably, i know of a porche 928 race car in perth, that had the bores re-done when it was rebuilt, 928 motors are an all alloy v8, which have the sealing done at the factory, but when are rebuilt, need it re-done.. After the motor was running for a few race meets, the sealing started to break down, and after a lot of research by the owner, he came to the conclusion he'd have to send the block back to a german company to get it done correctly as the various shops in aus didn't seem to have the right gear/know how to perform the job correctly..

it looks fixable, this is the bit i kick myself, because i had the under lying eg the rear shelt etc if they are damaged to replace yours.. we cut the remains of the cut up last weekend to take to the tip.. i do however have pile sof the interior stuff left, so if you need some get in touch with me and ill see ifi can help you out good luck sorting it, theres a couple of places in the east who should be able to help with panels if you need them A1 nissan wrecking in qld is where i got my cut from ADDRESS 94 Musgrave Rd Coopers Plains QLD, 4108 Australia Ph: (07) 3277 8926 Other: (07) 3277 8926 Fax: (07) 3277 9938

all offers considered, this stuff is taking up space and of no use to me..

You could, you'd loose the performance gain that it gives you tho, so its not something id recomend..

Have a whole pile of parts for sale, this stuff is of no use to me as ive turned the car into a pure race car, this stuff is just taking up space in my garage and id like to shift it on Stock R33 intercooler, with mounting brackets and rubber bends with clamps $50 R33 Fan box, Heater box, and air conditioning box, from the under the dash, dash climate control <digital from memory>, dry air recriever, air conitioning rad, and air con lines, no air con compressor, $350 the lot, will seperate R33 4 door carpet, good condition, dark grey in colour $150 All the plastic pillar trims, A B and C pillars, black in colour, all in excellent condition, no marks, nothing screwed into them $100 each for the a/b pillar trim, drivers side has been sold $90 each for the c pillar trim $90 each for the lower B pillar trims $30 each for the kick pannels Set of holy fark bars all 3 in black again $80 Roof lining, light grey, excellent condition, $90 Set of australian compliance seat belts, 3 rear belts, 2 front belts, all the buckles included but the drivers seat buckle $200 R33 Electric Hicass rack $50 R33 rear window wiper motor and wiper arm, sold R33 series 1 4 door boot spoiler $50 R33 rear plastic speaker mounts $20 R32 GT-R rb26dett crank, some scoring, needs a regrind, otherwise straight, $250 R32 GT-R Cams and cam gears, good condition, no marks, $250 All parts are located in perth, all reasonable offers considered, PM me if interested, or call on 0411 59 49 48 if the parts are not listed, its not for sale

you can use a 20 ecu on it, but you need something to actuate the vvt solenoid, which is mainly just an off off switch, but you need to do it at the right rpm, can be done tho.. iand, don't jump the gun on the re-spray just yet, do some ringing around, get some prices etc and work out your budget a few places i can recomend to you, going north to south tenagah hyperdrive speedworks c-red xspeed they'd be the best places to start and ask a few questions about the costs etc and what they can do, places like hyperdrive, c-red and x-speed can also source cuts, or get in contact with mrmayhem or dsturbed as they too will also be able to source a cut for you

main cost difference is in the front cut 25 cuts are a couple of k cheaper than the 26... downside to the 25 is the ecu is not romable, but r32 gt-r ecu's are.. big upside to the R cut is it'd come with cooler and associated pipe work <hopefully> so its something extra you wouldn't need to pay up for when doing a 25 convo otherwise they're much a muchness, big difference being the sump on the 25, unless you end up with a gts-4 cut somehow..

10k should cover most items a gt-r cut will set you back about 6-7 grand most likely you can sell the gt-r box off for about a grand, a rb25 box will cost 12-1500 with a cross member etc essentially its a drop in operation, you will need to modify the rb26 sump to clear the cross memeber in the gts-t as it has the diff built in, which can be removed.. ecu etc, you can stick with the stock rb26 ecu, the loom etc should plug into the r32 loom with very little modification, and when its all settled in and you want to play around, you can just rom the factory ecu... should end up with a little bit of change from your ten k, depending on who you get to do it, if you do it yourself you save more..

whats this circut battle crap about, the scan is a bit hard to read.. are they actually going to use a race track like wanners/collie, or just run some drags?

Just wondering if anyone knows which of the two pins in an rb26/sr20 doughnut style knock sensor does what, one goes to ground, the other the ecu, which is which.. cheers

I personally wouldn't use the reline oils, ive seen some interesting left overs it creates inside the gearbox on a few boxes that have been pulled apart.. id go for the mobil or elf competition oils, just get one with a suitable weighting for your needs, you may also need to blend..

it can have the eprom replaced and a retuned rom put in.. alternatively you can also install a rom board lik the bikirom to drive them..

Got a set of cams from a r32 gt-r head, comes with cams gears, but not the bolts to help the gears to the cams, as they ended up on the new cams $250 the lot pm or call on 0411 59 49 48 if interested, they're only taking up space now..

got a series 1 4 door spoiler in silver if you want.. pm me

might need to get a bit of crc onto it to loosen it up, and use a bit og gentle persistance, read lightly wack it with a hammer on the housing to seperate it from the cartridge.. before getting to angtsy with it, try using the handle of the hammer to tap it off/loose

this is why, whenever any of my cars have been to the pits, i get in the passenger seat, stops them thrashing it, and also means if your exhaust is loud it won't get pinged as they won't be able to flog it to hear it..

bart/dsturbed is your best hope, all the lights, hubs, brake bits etc ill be using for now.. brakes and master cyl etc will be up for grabs eventually when i switch to using a pedal box and bigger brakes..

www.junatuo.co.jp but expect to pay upwards of 20k for a motor with internals and then a pile more for all the supporting hardware to make 1k of power.. be it a tomei, hks, jun etc built mill, you will be up for big money