Denver

Actually, the fastest pass by a gt-r in wa is Kier wilson, 9.something in his drag gt-r, and his street car backed it up with a low 10, and they both run motec..

Congrats on the buy dude, sounds like a bit of an animal.. as for what to do, well, engine wise you shouldn't have to do anything, to get the extra stroke you need a different crank <usualy> so id peg that the motor already has a billet crack, rods and pistons, big cams, and probable a hoard of other fruit internally to support the power... however, if your paranoid, and i know i personally would be, id be pulling the motor out, and stripping it down to check everything to make sure its in good working order, and giving it a new set of rings and bearings, depending on how long its been together for, unless you can get accurate info from the guys in japan about it, it'll save the not knowing factor... as for everything else, personally id leave it alone, and id just look about getting it re-tuned for australian fuel, thatd be priority number one once your sure about the quality of the internals, then you will see what it can do, and if you need to touch anything to get more out of it...

Chasing a couple of sr20/rb26 detonation sensors, preferably with the plug and length of wire attached.. pm me if you have any cheers

Brad, could still extend the sump to the right side, it would involve a tricky setup tho, the one im picturing in my head would involve a section that can be unbolted to give you the extra capacity, and still give you access to the diff without cutting things.. tricky yes, slightly anoying yes, but you'd cover youself for the issues of surge a lot better.. as for the tapered plug, looks just like the head oil feed restrictor i stuck in my block the other night, cept i used a reduced size tomei unit.. has it got a hole in the centre?

Everything but that sorry, bart/dsturbed may be able to help out tho

Hokay, my mistake there, i was putting more though to this last night, saddly the front diff is an issue for clearance and extending the sump on the right side, in my case it won't be an issue as the front diff is going <r33 gts-t> but even still, you should be able to get some more capacity to the right side of things..

Maitlands work is usally 20 billion times better than that... however... You really would want evenish distribution of the oil pan either side of the pickup point.. that instance of the sump you have, has the majority of the oil capacity to one side of the pan, and as pointed out, certainly in the case of waneroo, which has a large amount of right hand turns, all the oil will end up in the left hand side of the sump behind the gate, and given theres only one corner that isn't a right hander, on long track and 2 on short track, it'll probably mean you run out of oil fairly promptly.. ideally.. you want good capacity either side, with a dual gate setup for left and right hand cornering, so a good volume of oil is kept in the pickup area.. id personally have tried to keep the factory baffling setup too and extended it with the gate system, simular to tomei's insump gatesetup for factory sumps.. Im just getting a sump designed atm by a friend of mine, which when completed ill pop some pics up, which should be pretty well functional for racing/drifting requirements, its probably a couple weeks away tho.. cheers

You can intercool it still, like a normal turbo setup.. basically most of the principles stay the same, your forcing more air in, same as a turbo, tuning is lsightly different, but instead of driving the air pump with exhaust gas, your driving it with the crank of the motor.. And as for drag cars, they only run for about a minute total, and really only 10 seconds tops on full noise, and aside from top fuellers which run on nitro, most cars run methonal, which runs a lot cooler than normal fuels do, if you take note a lot of cars runing methonal will actualy get condensation on the side of the blower/hats etc from the fuel..

The SC's capa sell are pretty inificient and work in much the same way as a turbo.. the way you want to go, is a twin screw setup, the twin screw units themselves are only $2500 from harrop, the cost is getting them mounted up, as you'll need a custom bracket setup.. Theres an s13 race car thats based out perth here with one, that makes over 400 at the treads with it, thats using a 2.3l unit, as well as there being an xr6 with a 2.3l unit bolted to the side, which is making over 600hp at the wheels, and cuts low 10's at the drags, think its down to 10.2 now, you can get a 3.3l unit which i imagine will make more than enough power for anyones demands here, and be totally linear in its power delivery.. the catch is it just takes moeny to develop a mounting kit, and also time and development to ensure it all functions as its meant to..

theres a 260rs that auto wholesale have/might have had for sale

6 thou is the sort of clearances id expect on poorly made forged pistons, not properly made hks stuff.. the factory specs for stock cast pistons indicate .035-.055 mm as clearances, i wouldn'ty have expected much more than the factory specs for HKS stuff, or anything japanese really.. 4-5 thou and more and you get a very slappy motor.. which means it'll be a breather,, something im not really looking at building..

I know of someone, but it depends, what are you doing with it?

Just wondering, if anyone has in there grasp, and english version of the HKS install instructions for a set of 87mm pistons to suit an rb26dett Ive got the kit, but the info is in jap, so just wondering if anyone has some specs on what the piston to bore clearances should be machined too, ive deciphered all the other info, just need that last little nugget of info.. cheers

because comms in this country are so backwards the dinosaurs are still living

Got a bunch of parts from an r33 4 door for sale as im making mine into a drifter/racer, and these are no longer needed Stock R33 intercooler, with mounting brackets and rubber bends with clamps $50 Nearly complete R33 Air conditioner rad/condensor, associated piping, dry air reciever, and the actual cooling unit/box which lives in the dash inside the car $200, only thing not there, is the compressor, will bolt into any r33 model, good if your car didn't come with air con, or you've had a smack and need parts R33 4 door carpet, good condition, dark grey in colour $150 All the plastic pillar trims, A B and C pillars, black in colour, all in excellent condition, no marks, nothing screwed into them $100 each for the a/b pillar trim, drivers side has been sold $90 each for the c pillar trim $90 each for the lower B pillar trims $30 each for the kick pannels Set of holy fark bars all 3 in black again $80 Roof lining, light grey, excellent condition, $90 Set of australian compliance seat belts, 3 rear belts, 2 front belts, all the buckles included but the drivers seat buckle $200 R33 front passenger seat, light grey in colour, excellent condition, $150 R33 Electric Hicass rack $50 R33 rear plastic speaker mounts $20 R33 4 door, door glass, and rear window, all in excellent condition, limmo tinted, $700 for the set, thats all 4 doors and the rear window R32 GT-R rb26dett crank, some scoring, needs a regrind, otherwise straight, $250 All parts are located in perth, all reasonable offers considered, PM me if interested, or call on 0411 59 49 48 if the parts are not listed, its not for sale

Naming workshops makes the admins a sad panda.. having done it myself a couple of times it gets you int rouble.. That said, im going through the same sort of crap, not so much with machining, as i know that takes time, but getting some panel work sorted, which my normal panel beater, someone ive known for a while, used before, and recomended a large amount of business too, said would only take half a day to do.. anyway hes a busy man, so ive been waiting patiently for him to have some time to perform said tasks.. i waited i waited some more and then my patience ran out, especially as my car is booked in for a tower to tower roll cage in a week's time, and once that goes in, if the car wasn't 100% square, it wouldn't ever be square and it'd handle like a pig.. so i walked in on monday and explained, that i _need_ him to pull out the damage before said date.. The response of take a number didn't really help my problem.. so thursday i walk into Zammits panel and paint in ossie park, explain what i need, got a price, said id be in touch.. Rang them back later thursday afternoon, and asked what sort of time frame they could do it in, the response of "we're quiet in that dept atm, so if you dropped it in, you'd probably get it back same day" So, i dropped it to them at 8am friday morning, he said to give them a call about lunch to see how there doing, no probs i said.. At 11am, thats a whole 3 hours later, the phone rings, "Yep we're done, you can come pick it up".. thats what i call service, no screwing around, no hassle, i paid my cash, said thankyou very much, and left, none of this waiting on mates to do something pretty straight forward for you, even when your going to pay them to do it.. So from now on, ill be recomending my friends to go elsewhere..

have dsl2 from borg at home ive seen speeds of 1.2 meg a second while downloading

you will be bitterly dissapointed then, the timeline in the movie is so utterly wrong

Its the poorest rip off of a cartoon ever i don't recomend seeing it

no back seat and i need the front bar and support..

don't need this any longer, all offers considered..

Have an R32 GT-R crank for sale, needs a regrind to remove some scoring on the jounrals, will then need a balance, chasing $250 ono, pm me or ring on 0411 59 49 48 cheers

Got a pile of gear for sale Stock R33 intercooler, with mounting brackets and rubber bends with clamps $50 Nearly complete R33 Air conditioner rad/condensor, associated piping, dry air reciever, and the actual cooling unit/box which lives in the dash inside the car $200, only thing not there, is the compressor, will bolt into any r33 model R33 4 door carpet, good condition, dark grey in colour $150 All the plastic pillar trims, A B and C pillars, black in colour, all in excellent condition, no marks, nothing screwed into them $100 each for the a/b pillar trim, drivers side has been sold $90 each for the c pillar trim $90 each for the lower B pillar trims $30 each for the kick pannels Set of holy fark bars all 3 in black again $80 Roof lining, light grey, excellent condition, $90 Set of rear speaker mounts $20 the pair Set of australian compliance seat belts, 3 rear belts, 2 front belts, all the buckles included but the drivers seat buckle $200 R33 front passenger seat, light grey in colour, excellent condition, $200 R33 electronic hicas rack complete set of side and rear glass, all limo tinted $700 for the lot Electric window motors from the rear doors, including the mechanism $200 the pair All parts are located in perth, all reasonable offers considered, PM me if interested, or contact me on 0411 59 49 48

ace, your a legend dude

A dyno tune with a follow up torad tune is IMHO the best way to achieve the right tune setup.. its a bit hard to legally achieve a WOT tune without risking licence, impounding, death etc these days, a dyno eliminates all those variables and just leaves you to sort out the road tuning side and light throttle tunign