jlnewton

The O2 Rush is all one piece! There is no adapter piece. Just pull it out of the plastic, grab the nut and bolts from the AFM which bolt it to the original air box and bolt on the pod. Job finished! http://202.139.242.57/Images%201/O2%20Rush...0Race%20pod.jpg

Yeah, I have a UAS cold air box, Pod filter + exhaust and aftermarket BOV which was on the car when I got it. I got my girlfriend to drive the car up the road away from me then towards me and you can hear the turbo spool up over the exhaust. As nismoR34 said it definately turns heads when the turbo spools up. Don't know whether the box quietens it though? I like the sound, others hate it. Its is all personal preference. It still seems quiet to me. My previous car, a 72 GT Clubman mini, had twin SU's hard against the firewall, now thats loud!

I think in stock form the turbo's have different skirts and the stock rims are different on the turbo and non turbo (different width and colour I think). But how many do you see with stock rims and body kits!?!?! I always sit beside them for a while listening to the gear changes or wait for them to give it a little squirt and then decide whether or not it is worth a go! NA supras shouldn't be a problem even for stock R33 GTSTs, just gotta get that launch right otherwise they will give you a scare.

I can email them if you want. Can't get them small enough to post and still be readable

I have the HKS english diagram and also have the R33 ECU pinout and can show you which ones you need. I installed mine 4 weeks ago with success.

By the time I start the car, reverse out the garage, lock the garage, reverse out of the unit block probably a minute warm up then just take it easy until up to temperature. I think that is enough. Besides I don't think I have read a petrol car man. yet that doesn't recommend some warm up time, but they always add somewhere that they do not recommend long idle periods aswell.

I got an O2 Rush and it bolted straight on to the AFM. Couldn't be easier. Just make sure the pod kit you get is to suit an R33. No mods required. Just be prepared for the sound! I thought I must have forgotten to re-attach a pipe or something when I took it for a test run. Love it now though!

Just an question, doesn't the SAFC II have the ability to have 2 different settings. Therefore you could have an Air/Fuel setting for High and Low boost?? If so, wouldn't that would be the choice for low mods on bang for buck basis?

I have to agree. Unless you have been Karting or have experience in driving with power, not a good choice. I was 24 when I got my 33 and before that I had a 998cc mini, Gt clubman mini and a Gemini panelvan. The minis were great, raw driving experience, no electronic helpers and very forgiving and not to mention cheap. Still nothing is as fun as punting the mini through the bends. Go do an advanced driving course. Learn car control then go for power. Don't want to sound old and boring but you don't want to learn the hard way.

I get about 400-450km per tank around town, I guess between 13 & 15L/100km but on the highway it is much better. I drove from Toowong/Brisbane to Penrith/Sydney in ten hours flat only filling once at Coffs Harbour. It was very close to 10L/100km and to do that distance in ten hours is no nana driving. Very happy with highway economy.

Check Unique Autosports at Castle Hill. They have exactly what you are looking for. www.nismo.com.au

I just got the 3M Carbon Black about 3 month ago. Its pretty dark but I have seen darker. Its supposed to "never" fade or go blue for what that is worth. Don't get mirror

I got mine through takakaira. I just had to buy something from there after I found that site! JMS also said they could supply them and I noticed PerfectRun has recently added them to there list of goodies. Takakaira ended up being the cheapest way to go but perfectrun isn't too far behind. Takakaira and PerfectRun also have the JIC version which is a bit cheaper. Both quality products I'm sure. UAS said they might be able to supply the JIC ones but I never got back to them to find out whether they could or couldn't. Through Takakaira Cusco $498 JIC $425 + postage (checked 5min ago) A bit $$$$ but if you intend on keeping your car for a while I think its worth the money. I can't afford new rear tyres every year just from normal driving. MRE next time you guys organise a cruise I'll come down and you can have look if you like. Couldn't make Roma street had a birthday dinner thing to go to.

Nah, alignment is sweet (I hope). I have had my car 16 months, got it aligned when I first got it, after I fitted the new shocks and after I fitted the arms recently. Front wear is good, just terrible inside wear on the back. I had a bit over 2 deg of neg. on one side and a bit under 2 deg of neg on the other side at the back. Way to much. I got front and rear aligned all those times. Each time they set the rear toe to L +1.0mm & R+1.0mm. If anyone is using different please let me know. I am only going on what the "experts" tell me. Alot of people with lowered skylines suffer from this though, IRS commodores are worse, some BMWs suffer pretty bad as well, as well as others.

I have had mine for 16 months

Reaction times aren't included at the strip anyway. You could sit in stage for 15 minutes and still run a 10sec pass. Reaction times become a factor simpily to beat the other guy over the line. Especially becomes critical in handicap events. Times are taken from when you leave the staging area. With the type 1 timer it taken from when the wheels start rolling, same thing.

If its black smoke I would check the two things you have already mentioned. You may have a faulty O2 sensor? Apologies, I get very scared at the sound of blue smoke, past experiences.

Blue -ish smoke sounds a bit scary. If there was a problem with ignition/spark or mixture (faulty AFM) I would expect black/rich smoke or even white/grey/rusty smoke. To me any blue smoke means somewhere along the way oil is being burnt. Don't know, I suggest seeing an expert you can trust. I had a mate with a 180SX with the CA motor. His was showing similiar symptoms to yours and it turned out to be the turbo. Its hard to say without seeing/hearing it in person

Well, I range between 6.00 and 6.7 for the 0-100km/h depending on wheel spin and I have only done one 1/4 time and it was 14.02. For the mods I have (3in exhaust, pod filter with cold air box, BOV, good suspension and tyres)) that seems fairly reasonable. I did get one 5.3 for a 0-100 down a hill!!! The results are certainly not ridiculous. I will have to wait for willobank to see how close.

There are a few places on the net were you can download an English manual which will show you these things. R32GTR has got the method For a R33 wires are Pin 7 for tacho out - Yellow wire with blue stripe Pin 53 for speedo out - Yellow wire with green stripe

Just watch rear tyre wear when you start playing around with ride height. My R33 is only lowered 1.5in and it chews the inside of the tyres. I suggest getting the Cusco rear camber arm for the rear (JIC has one aswell) to straighten up those wheels unless you don't mind replacing rear tyres on a regular basis. In theory should give a better launch too. Radial tyres don't like big camber. I fitted the Cusco arms to mine a few weeks ago as I am up for rear tyres and didn't want that to happen again. They look pretty trick to. I have Bilsteins alround and they work quite well.

I have one on my 33. I think they would be reasonably accurate if it were possible to calabrate the speedo part accurately as you can only really do it off the cars speedo which isn't too flash. Know anyone with a laser gun? All the times I have posted with it seem fairly correct though. Want to take it Willowbank to get an accurate comparison, that will tell the story. It is hard to find 1/4 mile of staight, flat road to get a good reading.

I have seen similar pictures somewhere. I will wait till production starts. Seems certain though that there will be no more RB26DETT.

You couldn't go past a GTR. Even though the new XR6 looks pretty good, it will never be a contender when compared to a GTR.

You can't beat Yokohama. I have A008s on my mini, S760s on the work van and ES100s on my R33 GTST and the old man has A539 on his Commodore . They are a great tyre whether is wet or dry and I have never had balance problem. You pay for what you get!