WetGTR

Has anyone tried a before and after to see if you actually run better economy by doing this. I understand that this would work but by how much?

In real world terms what would this acheive, eg: better efficiency & how better, more overall response, more HP, smoother revving, etc If some people have followed the Japanese trend and have installed 1.6mm head gaskets which have cost a small fortune - is it worth removing and obtaining squish because they would of obviously lost this.

I was wondering if you sell the option bits for the D-Jetro version of the Power FC. The ones I'm after are: a harness for the Map Sensor (pressure sensor) 49C-A004 Temperature sensor N3A1 18 845 Temperature sensor harness 415-XA03 These are for a Power FC D-Jetro version for a SR20DET. Thankyou

I was wondering if you sell the option bits for the D-Jetro version of the Power FC. The ones I'm after are: a harness for the Map Sensor (pressure sensor) 49C-A004 Temperature sensor N3A1 18 845 Temperature sensor harness 415-XA03 These are for a Power FC D-Jetro version for a SR20DET. Thankyou

OK, interesting read! I agree with SK, Installing bigger cams means you are allowing more air & fuel to be let in per cycle - less restrictions but in your case you can get the fuel there in the right quanity but run out of air, re your stock turbo. A high flow, GCG or something bigger then your stock will fix this for sure. You would of noticed the difference when you turned up the boost - right? Well wait till you see the difference with a high flow or bigger turbo....wow factor! Also, talking to Benno (Racepace) will confirm or change what needs to be done. I also believe (without knocking anybody) he is the tuner thats ends all tuners. Wish he was here in sunny Queensland. Trying to convice him, hahahaha.

This has to be done on the Dyno with a wide band UEGO sensor for your AFR. With this information they can set the fuel delivery maps. If you have adjustable cams gears, they will be able to set these for your new cams as well. The timing has to be set as well for load & rpm points. Another thing is these cams should give you more power if this was an upgrade so getting it tuned = more economy & power....hmmm nice combo. Always use a reputable tuner though, no good having the right stuff and someone not setting it right = waste!

Yes I said this but for BIG cams like 280 degree or maybe even the 272. The cams you have fit in the MID type range with a lift on the small side. These are a great cam and I'm getting a set myself but with 10.25 lift as I have that lift in my cams ATM. In closed loop it aims for 14.7 in light city driving & 14.7 or leaner if your ECU is capable - leaner mixtures for economy. I'm changes my cams for this exact reason, I can't go any leaner around 13.1:1 because it will surge or its too lean for my exhaust values and they would burn out. With a tune they would be able to see what AFR you are able to run across all load & rpm points to suit your cams then setup your closed loop.

Depends on how big your cams are. SK has said in a previous post that too lean a mixture even 14.7 for big cams will burn out your exhaust values. I spoke to my tuner about this and its true, also you would be lucky if the engine would even take that ratio without surging. Best to get a tune first when ever you make any mod that will change the volumetric effiency of an engine. Cams fit this category for sure! Another thing: cruise ratio's of 13.2:1 is running on the rich side. In Closed Loop you should be able to run the 14.7:1 ratio or even leaner but depends on cam sizes. What are your new cam sizes BTW?

Thanks! Yep you got it. More compond = more grip

I think the terms full face might be misunderstood here. Is the full face made of the same compond as the 5 puck one? Usually the full face they speak about is made up of similar compond used in stock clutches but the puck version is made up of ceramic compond. In this case the 5 puck one will do a better jop performance wise.

If the full face clutch was made with the same compond material as the puck type cluches well it would be better. Most of the time it comes down to manufactering costs. There is no point in placing more pucks or clutch compond if increases the price and does not suit the market intended for. If you look at a Nismo twin plate clutch, they have almost a full face clutch with the puck style compond which is made up of ceramic compond. The reason for the gaps is heat and the ability for some flex. because these use a large ceramic pad (puck) they are more expensive. I rang Adelaide Clutches (Xtreme) as they can replace the ceramic pads on them. I almost fell over when then gave me the price, think it was like $1200.00 Reason - it was almost a full face with just some slits in them. If the clutch was manufactured to hold say 300 HP and it does this with 3 pucks of ceramic pad then way had more? If you added more the clutch price would increase and so would the rated HP. Another thing you could do is increase the puck's surface area by adding more and decreasing the pressure plate force. You get a softer clutch with the same HP rating but this would cost more as manufacturing costs have also increased. If you think about it, a twin plate works by have more pads on more metal, silimar to say like having 2 fly wheels and 2 clutch plates. The pressure plate does not have to be very high as there is already alot of compond in contact with metal. Not saying the pressure plates in twin plates are always soft but in the case of the Nismo twin plate, they get a high HP rating cause they use a full face clutch with a medium pressure plate. These are some of the reasons why it holds good power and is light on the foot and behaves like a stock clutch.

If we are talking about the same clutch and the difference is 3 or 9 puck, well the 9 puck will hold more as long as it is the same size, width & compond as the 3 puck. When you have more of it to grip with, it will hold more power. Because you have more surface area eg. more pucks - there is more compond to grip the flywheel and pressure plates

My opinion..... 1. Make sure the Bosch 040 is installed at the lowest point so it can be right near the bottom of the tank. Bending the cradle straight at the bottom is a good idea 2. Use electrical end terminals for the wiring part & soilder or crimp them. 3. Use nuts (stainless steel if you can) to place wire terminals on to pump 4. Use stainless steel clamps to hold the pump into place. As for zip ties , I won't want that pump coming lose and the terminals moving about........bang. I also wouldn't like anything contaminating my fuel, eg plastics, rust from metals. Also the bosch 040 pump has a built in filter, no need for sock and the reason for it being mounted very low in tank.

The more pucks the better! The more surface area you are covering, the less over all wear. There is alot more strain and wear on 3 pucks then on 9 pucks of equal size, thickness and compond. The same goes for twin plates, as this states, there are 2 plates of pucks then just the one. Hope this helps

My arm is getting twisted towards the Sard's. Nice options from people in the know and nice price. Might go the 800cc twin spray type, just in case I need the extra. Unless this is bad..... I was also thinking the Nismo items but couldn't find them at Greenline or Nengun in the 740cc range for the RB26. Looked at the Power Enterprise ones but very expensive - Sard 800cc twin$645 verses the Power Enterprise 1000cc twin $1400

This is good!! What results did you obtain, eg more economy, better midrage power, better drivablity, etc. This is the perfect before & after for injectors. BTW what brand were they before ?

You would be assuming correctly - top feed low impedance type.

What size injector would do the job? Keeping in mind 400 odd awkw and not to run them at max duty cycle. Anything good or bad about sard injectors? Just asking as they are well priced but I prefer quality items.