WetGTR

BOBBO, are you saying you have 580hp at the wheels and can still get close to 600km per tank if you took it easy? If this is the case, what are your mods like, injectors, spark setup, cams. I'd state my conclusion on something that some people might find interesting.

How many km's out of a tank can you get R32-GTS? You have big cams and big power levels so I'm very interested to see how or if it is different to other people with stock or slightly modded RB26's. This would also help in some research I'm doing and I'd be happy to share the results.

Hi Simon, How many km's do you get out of your tank? Not that I doubt anyone, I just want to know what they are capable of so I can aim for those figures. Good fuel economy is a must!! More money for mods instead of spending it on wasted fuel bill which pays for war on oil rich countries. Didn't you have 468rwkw before? Did you lower the power levels? Cams change the economy levels.

N I B, could you give more details about the GTR that does close to 600k's a tank, like power levels, ECU and setup re: cams, injectors, compression. I get an average 350km a tank with an Autronics ECU and 440awkw.

Yep, just like the other 2 people said above.

There is a plug and play type but its only for: Mitsubishi EVO 4,5,6,7 and 8. Subaru WRX 1995-96, 1997-98, 1999-00 and 2001-2005. Honda Civc/Integra 1992-95 (OBD1) and also 1996-00 OBD2 cars when used with the supplied adapter harness.

All Autronics have only 4 ingition outputs - even the SM4. You might be thinking of the injector drivers which are fully sequential. The SM4 needs a multiplexer which used other outputs to be converted to ignition outputs. SMC with a dwell board or SM4 still uses wasted spark with the ignitor module & standard coil packs. As for original cams, well not many people run origianal cams when they use a Autronics ECU. I run 260in &ex cams & I've also run 280in &ex cams - not a propblem all over 400awkw. Wasted spark work by firing 1&6, 2&5, 3&4. Say when 1 need to fire at TDC, no.6 also fires where it is wasted. I'm sure some here can go into more detail about this. Most CDI's have multispark up to 3500rpm and for 30 degree duration to combat this, works very well. Above this and it gos into single spark mode. This can be the case but as anything correct installation is nessasary as you have said. I agree with this Sorry for the comments, I'm not here to give anyone a hard time.

All of the SMC's have only 4 ignition outputs. Only the SMC4 with a multiplexor will allow addition ignition outputs. Also agree with all T04GTR has said

I run the engine idling for 30min on GTX oil with new Nissan filter drop the oil and filter Refill with GTX oil again and new Nissan filter and drive for 500km Drop oil and filter again and refill with Castrol 10W60 and another Nissan Oil filter Change filter and oil every 5000km

Maybe look at a Apexi N1 dual system.

A while back I was saying that the wiring diagram was wrong, warned you about it. How did you wire it up? What was the ignition out's numbers and input numbers from the ECU to CDI? I had 1 week of pulling my hair out and a dyno tune that was waisted cause of this. Don't dispair Brad, all can be sorted and this is the reason I get real nervous on dyno days, always scared of crap popping up but you have to put it down to part of the build.

I have personally run 280 cams in my car while running wasted spark - no problem at all. Alot of people who run an Autronics ECU also have larger cams, let alone all the V8 boys who run even bigger cams. Wasted spark will only cause the CDI to work harder and the coils have to be able to recharge fast enough for the next strike. Even the stock Skyline coils have fast enough recharge rate, can't say anything about other cars. Don't know how this came about about wasted spark not being compatible for larger then stock cams. If this were true my car would not even start let alone rev and produce power.

It still only has 2 dump capacitors. I don't think M&W have yet to design a 6 dump capacitor model. I do know that Autronics is still rated as a high power CDI and 1 of only 2 CDI's out there that can run low resistance coils like Mercury Outboard coils without blowing up.

Agreed! You can also set the base A/F to 14.7:1 for city driving & in the Target A/F place leaner mixtures, leanest possible & enable open loop lean hwy funtion. This will mean that light loads (city driving) closed loop will operate and be set to 14.7:1 and when the ECU see's your on the HWY it will run leaner ratio's. This all equals great economy. Saying all this, its not the only way to get good economy, just like Warspeed has said, select the A/F you want to run at the load & rpm site and she'll run that A/F.

It maps via TPS and Manifold pressure for turbo cars. There is no seperate maps. The RPM increments are what you want them to be, that being said Autronics have very good mathematical calculations to run the right A/F between RPM & Load ponits.

It has 4 drivers so for a 6 cylinder car you need to run wasted spark or get a SMC4 & multiplexer, this will give you 6 ignition drivers to run full sequential ignition.

re written below

The SMC & SMC2 does not provide closed loop for idle but the SM4 does provide closed loop for idle. Closed loop is provided in both SMC 1.92 (some of them) and all 1.94,SMC2 & SM4. Tune has to be within 2% of set A/F and their is also a lean hwy funtion where you can run leaner A/F when on the HWY. There is also adaption rate and range in SMC4, function is there in SMC 1.94 & SMC2 but these do not work.

Wastegate wont open at idle, only when it tries to limit boost that it will open.

I felt the tremor in the Force

Brad: I sent you the diagram for the wiring for the cable between laptop and ECU. You also have to go to proporties of the com1 port and change the setting in PORT SETTINGS tab. Go to adavanced settings for com1 properties and turn off FIFO buffers In regards to coil packs and running 2 x CDI units, this is so you have the full voltage going to your coils because of the wasted spark setup. I've only seen race applications where they use this then they modified the unit for even higher voltage then they added another CDI just to be sure. If you don't want to run wasted spark (there is no problem with wasted spark) then an SM4 with multiplexer for 6 ignition outputs and maybe something like a MSD DIS 6 (Autronics don't have a 6 channel CDI yet but its coming). If you have coils that are suited for CDI your fine. Even the stock or spitfire coils handle a CDI no problem. To setup a Skyline you will need an SMC or SMC 4, A trigger disk for the CAS, a MAP Sensor. If using the SMC ver 1.94 or similar, they don't come with dwell control so it can have dwell daughter boards wired in from Autronics but these are no longer available from Autronics anymore. The next choice is to purchase a CDI unit. This can be either Autronics 500R CDI, M&W CDI, MSD Dis4 or anything that can have a negative trigger input to the unit. If using the SM4 they have dwell control built in and don't need to run CDI. They also have software configured High or Low current drivers for the injectors besides all the other goodies you get. In regards to tuning, you can tune with any A/F meter but this will be very very slow. The ideal way of tuning is to use an Autronics A/F meter (btw the Dyno Dynamics Dyno's comes with the Autronics model B A/F ratio meter for all their Dyno's) and have it connected to the ECU. This will enable you to use the Auto tune feature. Now some people will say its crap and they can manual tune faster. This is so untrue! As stated about a hundred times, if used correctly the Auto tune function is faster then any manual tune. I would say the people that use it correctly would also agree. The thing is that the ECU receives the sample results from the wide band O2 sensor very quickly, about 10 samples per sec and the ECU adjusts to suit your target A/F, this is much faster then the A/F meter can display and a person could read and then make adjustments. I can't see a person being that fast, Autronics can do it for you. For big power, the ECU is capable no doubt but other issues comes up that are not really ECU related. These issues will come up no matter what ECU your running. If its ignition your talking about, then the right equiment should be purchased from the start or be able to be upgrading to suit your situation. Inital setup is not that hard and if you tell them which car your using it for when purchasing they will give you a base map to start with and setup all the parameters, not too bad to begine with. As for support, every time I've rang them or emailed them, they always spend the time to go through your situation and I've been very happy with that. So hard to diagnose a problem over the phone but they try and this has helped. I could have always taken it in as well. Hope this has helped with a bit more in sight about the Autronics ECU. cheers, Adam

Brad that coil setup is a nice piece of work. Very well done and looks neat. I love the way you still retained the coil over plug setup, not easy to do. Alot of other setups I've seen use leads from the coils.

Hi Brad! Racepace contact details are as follows: Talk to Ben on (03) 9762 9421. Hmmm Benno's the man

I'm after the Apexi N1 Dual System or maybe 2 x Apexi N1 Mufflers but they have to be the same and have 80mm inlets on them. Here is a picuture of the Dual System

Oil will get to your turbo very quickly. Just bolt it on and with a second or two, there will be oil flowing in your new turbo