viking

should the car be idling or wheels rotating?

does anybody know how to bleed the 4wd ? i heard there were 3 bleed points that should be bled? should it be bled from back to front, engine idling, wheels rotating??

WLDCRD- wat do you mean wen u say "it wont last last long"? meaning transfer of 50:50 torque wont hold long, transfer case could melt, or 4wd pump might cook itself?

i hav a r33 gtr vspec. the a-lsd light in the dash lights up which in turn only runs rear wheel drive. the ecu in the boot flashes once and five times indicating front right speed sensor, of which i hav replaced but problem still exsists. i hav checked the green 30amp abs fuse in the boot which was blown. replaced it then it blew straight away. i figured it may be a circuit problem. does anybody know how to isolate where the circuit problem may be or how to run other checks. has anyone had this problem??

i hav a r33 gtr vspec. the a-lsd light in the dash lights up which in turn only runs rear wheel drive. the ecu in the boot flashes once and five times indicating front right speed sensor, of which i hav replaced but problem still exsists. i hav checked the green 30amp abs fuse in the boot which was blown. replaced it then it blew straight away. i figured it may be a circuit problem. does anybody know how to isolate where the circuit problem may be or how to run other checks. has anyone had this problem??

when i got the car dyno'd i realised the rings were shot. couldn get much rwkw out of the little sucker. so to cut a long story short i need to rebuild the beast. forgies i reckon will be on the list!! make use of the 2540's no cash after the rebuild to get any thing else. perhaps raising the revs to 8500rpm should help them flow better.

well the main reason im asking is that my engine is getting rebuilt and i hav a pair of 2540's doing nothing at the moment. At the moment i really cant afford the 2530's so i figure the 2540's will be much better than the stock gtr turbo's? correct me if im wrong.

so in theory lets say drag wouldnt the 2540's be a better choice because of the hi-rev launch?

thanks for your reply guys. i hav stock internals and only plan for street use (weekends mainly) one guy told me the 2540's were quite laggy compared to 2530's which makes street driving terrible. and that stock internals may not handle the full force of 2540's?? im getting my car dyno'd with pod filter exhaust (twin 2 1/2" all the way) apexi cooler pfc for now hoping around 220awkw my goal eventually be around 300-330 with the turbos, injectors,fuel pump.

i've spoken to a few people and the responce is 2530 are better for gtr than 2540. perhaps for quick responce around a track but down the line wouldnt the 2540's be a better option?

hi ferni. it had the same fly wheel before with the standard clutch and was fine. do u reckon they could hav machined it out of balance. If the engine gets put under load easy this would be a bad thing right? Does that defeat the purpose of having a light weight fly wheel?

yeah i've checked all the engine mounts and underbody braces, all is good. i spoke to a guy at ABS that does clutches and he reckons it could be the fly wheel not balanced (machined properly) i hav a lightweight flywheel i believe cas the mechanic mentioned it was very very light compared to others he did.

i took it back to the mechanic and they had a look around but couldnt find the problem. he's pretty honest so i dont think he's jibbing me. he said thats the first time hes heard of this cas he's done heaps of clutches. do u think its cas the clutch plate isnt aligned properly or something??

i have an r33 gtr and was running fine until i had the clutch changed recently (heavy duty Extreme). it idles fine then i can feel vibration through the whole car from 1200-1400 revs (car in neutral). put my foot on the clutch and it still vibrates between those ranges. beyond those revs it smoothes out again. cant seem to work out wat the problem is. im gonna get it dyno'd next week perhaps that might give an indication. has anyone had this kind of problem????

i think it'll be better if i put it on the back of a truck then. thanks for your imput.

if i were to fit bigger turbo is it safe to drive without dyno'ing first

yeah quite sure mine is stock cas its only running at 0.8 bar. just wasnt sure why they change the printing though

a friend told me his r33 gtst had nissan printed on it.

all i could see was garrett m24 1-2.. so is garrett the standard turbo? cas i heard the r33 gtst had nissan printed on it/

im trying to work out if my turbo is standard. through all the piping and hoses all i can see is garrett on it and M24. can anyone tell me if the r33 GTR turbo came out with nissan printed on it or Garrett?

this is wat mine looks like

i dont understand the reasoning behind the use of that parker switch because u can do the same thing on the indicator stick. its also a 3way switch, forward (numbered I) middle (off) or backwards (numbered II)???

my model number is ggjprwfr33zdagj if that is any help..? im not sure if its the original console but i'll post a pic this weekend for u guys. can u post a pic of urs? the coin holder is molded in so it doesnt look like u can pop it out for extra switches unlike the other two.

im not sure its factory, i have a coin holder on the left slot, the middle is the parker. and the right had a switch of sum sort which is now missing. where is ur GTR badge? i dont have one.

in my r33 gtr centre console just behind the gear stick there are 2slots for switches. the one on the left activates the park lights which either press forward (numbered I) or backwards (numbered II). i cant figure out the purpose of this switch cause u can do the same thing on the indicator lever...???? The other slot next to parker switch has been removed and i was wondering wat used to be there??? does anybody know?