Jump to content
SAU Community

RyanN

Members
  • Posts

    406
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by RyanN

  1. yes! thats what im after, thanks! Does PowerPlay have a website?
  2. anyone here have a 'sparkling silver' skyline? Just checked out the GFB website and apparently i need to adjust the 'nipple' on the top of the BOV to make the BOV not open for as long as it does.
  3. www.justjap.com.au and www.xspeed.com.au are my 2 choices. xspeed is the cheapest and have the biggest range of parts compared to alot of other online stores.
  4. BNR34: TV2 Bayside Blue QM1 White KR4 Sonic Silver <- KV2 Silver GV1 Black Pearl AR2 Active Red EV1 Lightning Yellow LV4 Midnight Purple 2 WV2 Sparkling Silver QX1 White Pearl LX0 Midnight Purple 3 EY0 Silica Breeze JW0 Millenium Jade source: http://northwestnissans.com/board/showthre...1146#post331146 most turbo cars don't have have a problem with the atmo BOVs, so why does the r34?
  5. Vin: 6u90000er34011763
  6. wow, my brother did the exact same thing last week with hes S15, installed a stereo and lost all dash lighting, don't know if hes fixed it yet. :headspin: ill ask him tonight.
  7. i'll go out and check it at lunchtime, im currently at work Whats the boost/vacume gauge meant to show at full stock boost? when i got the car i would show no vacume but would max out just below the halfway line from +1(which is about 5-6PSI, when i fixed the vacume leak it now averages about halfway in vacume then max boost at just past the halfway mark which i about 8-10 PSI.
  8. i believe its sonic silver, its a darker silver than most silvers almost in between gunmetal grey and silver. Which part on the plate tells you the code? Over the weekend i did some engine checksand found a huge vacume leak in a hose going between the intake and this little black sensor thing tucked away next to the left suspension strut and brake cylinder, repaired it and now the boost gauge goes into vacume when idling, thats normal right? when i got it it never went below 0. I though it might of fixed this TCS problem but no, still have that problem. Also i tested the BOV which worked extremly well except for when the engine warmed up and idled below 1000rpm, causing it to struggle then stall. Driving was fine, the BOV goes off under hardly any boost making a loud pfffshhhhhhh noise which sounded really awesome even with just an A/T. Don't know how i could fix the stall problem since the GFB Mach 1 BOV spring can't be adjusted. any ideas?
  9. http://www.xracing.com.au/index2.htm no idea on price.
  10. back to the problem at hand, the 'check engine' light and TCS still turns off randomly, however it usually happens halfway into my comute (once the engines warmed up -sometimes). Happened this morning and this time it felt like the engine load had been taken off but the car still drove at the same speed, and of all things it felt more responsive when accelerating. What the hell is going on?
  11. i thought i was buying a coupe but it turned out to a 4 door, doesn't bother me though.
  12. do you like your r32? if so respray the 32 and keep it as your second car then buy a cheap ass VT commodore as an everyday comuter. When the 32's in the garage being modified you will at least have another car to fall back on, or the girlfriend could drive that instead of skyline
  13. i did it to my supra headlights by just using a heatgun. Takes awhile to heat up the black shit and peel it off but the end result is worth it.
  14. im going to have to hack the shitte out of it
  15. justjap and SVI are big, but your better off doing a dealer search on carsales.com.au or drive.com.au. Thats how i found mine, importing would of cost more.
  16. have you checked out drive.com.au, carpoint.com.au and carsales.com.au? just about all r34s are located in Sydney. My R34 GTT was transported down from NSW to VIC. Making it the only R34 for 100 miles
  17. would a 600x300x75 FMIC be over kill for a Garret T3/TO4 turbo? just asking since there isn't alot of room in the front of skyline - compared to an S15.
  18. yep, those photos seem to turn up all over the place. Go the r34, awesome car, looks better, better technology compared to most western cars and a better investment since fords and most local cars lose there value alot quicker than imports. Only problem is parts and service, however japanese cars don't break down as much as the fords or holdens. Power can't really be compared since its 2.5ltr turbo vs a 4ltr turbo - the nissian is still just as fast though.
  19. My biggest problem at the moment is to get my stock boost back, would the ecu need a reset after connecting the stock soilinoid back up? If a BOV can go off when revving in idle then has to be positive pressure, therefore some was made. On that subject, has anyone here installed a Mach 1 GFB BOV on an R34? whats up with the stock "mitsubishi" plumback.
  20. depends on the kind of r34, i picked up a 1998 r34 gt-t sedan semi-auto 42000km in excellent condition, completely stock for $25g (wholesalers price). The manuals and coupes go for between $31g and $38g.
  21. hmmm, i bought it up since my mates WRX can make the bov go off while giving it small revs at the traffic lights (don't ask why )
  22. solinoid is plugged back in (wiring and hoses), everything has been checked and doubled checked. Makes no sense, should go back to stock boost once reconnected.
  23. slow13dude, i think the r33 gtr looks alot better than stock r34 gtt, however the r34 gtr would have to be best, most aggressive looking car made. Just looking at it makes you scared of the power its got.
  24. the skyline GTR suspension i would have to admit is alot better than stock height Supra suspension, a Supra was my last car and that thing was so god damn rough that it was unbelievable. My first reason for selling it. That and that it was non-turbo.
  25. A GTR for the features and power (and the badge of course), however GTRs are really expensive and are a rare kind of car expecailly the vspec models so you would need to treat it as such by keeping the kms low and keep it tip top condition, the r34 gtt however would be newer, lower kms and alot smoother ride not being a rare car you wouldn't have to worry too much about the kms or condition. The GTR would be a rough track car (harder racing seats, lower/harder suspension but a hell of lot more power) that i wouldn't drive everyday (however a friend of a friend owns an r33 GTR Vspec and he took it for a long trip which he said was quite comfortable even though its been lowered with HKS susp), more of weekend kind of car, thats why i went for the r34 gtt sedan, a hi performance family car (even though i don't have a family - of my own) and the extra room is always is great for carrying mates.
×
×
  • Create New...