Lozza150

Shucks....*blushes*

This pic should give you an idea of what Hicas looks like.....

I have the older Blitz one (compared to the new one) fitted to my Skyline... only running stock boost...so it's not very loud....

Thank's guy's.... ill wait till i upgrade the turbo.....

Is it possible to fit these to a Stock Turbo..... Does it aid in performance..... Where did you buy it from....

Not a problem..!

HICAS is Nissan’s version of four wheel steering. It is an acronym for High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension. Unlike other Japanese car manufacturers 4WS (eg Honda’s system) HICAS never exceeds +/- 1°. It is designed for high speed response rather than parking manoeuvres. The system is electro-hydraulic - the ECU in the boot directs a hydraulic actuator at the rear axle to steer the rear wheels using the rearmost suspension links. The result is usually no more than 0.4° of movement. HICAS gives a touch of counter steer before settling with the rear wheel pointing the same way as the front. (Maybe this explains why my Skyline feels so loose on high-speed gravel...) This results in sharp turn-in, and enhanced stability at medium to high speeds. off this website..... http://www.overflow.250x.com/diagnostics.htm Cheers Lawrence

A pic might help

Beer... BBq ...car's going sideway's .... can't think of a better Sunday/Saturday....

MMMMMMMM skidpan......

This Link has details of how to bypass HICAS for racing. http://homepages.tig.com.au/~robs/hicaslock.htm

What is SUPER HICAS Nissan Skyline GT-R has the SUPER HICAS setup. Aided by computer, Super HICAS enables a tightly-controlled power slide that cannot be implemented by any alternatives. When attacking a corner, the rear wheels will steer in reverse first in order to sharpen the initial steering response. Then, when sensors sense that the car responds to steering, the rear wheels will steer in the same direction as the front wheels, thus immediately introduces rear-tyre slip which help adjusting the attacking angle. Since the computer is monitoring the whole process, the amount of oversteering is always under check. You need not to be afraid of losing control. The Super HICAS system was also available on a few S13 models. As you can see htat would make drift that little bit easier.

What is HICAS? And do I have it? Good question. HICAS is Nissan’s version of four wheel steering. It is an acronym for High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension. Unlike other Japanese car manufacturers 4WS (eg Honda’s system) HICAS never exceeds +/- 1°. It is designed for high speed response rather than parking manoeuvres. The system is electro-hydraulic - the ECU in the boot directs a hydraulic actuator at the rear axle to steer the rear wheels using the rearmost suspension links. The result is usually no more than 0.4° of movement. HICAS gives a touch of counter steer before settling with the rear wheel pointing the same way as the front. (Maybe this explains why my Skyline feels so loose on high-speed gravel...) This results in sharp turn-in, and enhanced stability at medium to high speeds.

HICAS Diagnostic Procedure 1. Input starting conditions for self-diagnosis. * Turn ignition switch "OFF". * Set shift lever to "P" or "N" (A/T) or "Neutral" (M/T). * Turn ignition switch "ON". * Immediately start engine. * Turn steering wheel from left to right (at least 20deg from the neutral position) 5- times or more, then depress foot brake pedal at least 5- times all within 10- seconds after ignition switch has been turned "ON". 2. Input self-diagnosis item. * Depress and release foot brake pedal. * Turn steering wheel from left to right (at least 20deg) from the neutral position. * (M/T model): Depress clutch pedal and move gear shift lever to any position other than Neutral and return to Neutral. Release clutch pedal. (A/T model): Disengage and engage parking brake lever. Move shift lever to any position other than Neutral or Parking and return to Parking. * Move car at least 3 meters (10ft) forward and proceed at indicated speed of at least 2km/h (1mph) in self-diagnosis mode. 3. The self-diagnosis mode will then appear in the "HICAS" warning lamp. * When all systems are normal HICAS warning lamp flashes at 0.25 second intervals. * When there is a system malfunction (there is a nifty diagram here of HICAS lamp pulses. I tried to translate them to words...) Mode A) 10 short pulses for 5 seconds. No pulses for 5 seconds. Nine 2-second interval indicating the system status (18 seconds total). (short pulse = good, 1 second pulse=bad) 1) HICAS Solenoid R.H. 2) HICAS Solenoid L.H. 3) Fail-Safe Valve 4) (Constantly normal mode) 5) Vehicle Speed Sensor 6) Steering Angle Sensor 7) Steering Neutral Position Sensor 8) A/T: Parking brake sensor ___ M/T: Clutch Sensor 9) A/T: Inhibitor Sensor ___ M/T: Neutral Sensor ** Display repeats until ignition switch is turned "OFF" or 5 min has past. Mode B) Lamp on for 5 seconds. No pulses for 5 seconds. Nine 2-second interval indicating the system status (18 seconds total). (short (0.1 sec) pulse = good, 1 second pulse=bad) 1) HICAS Solenoid R.H. 2) HICAS Solenoid L.H. 3) Fail-Safe Valve 4) (Constantly normal mode) 5) Vehicle Speed Sensor 6) Steering Angle Sensor 7) Steering Neutral Position Sensor 8) A/T: Parking brake sensor ___ M/T: Clutch Sensor 9) A/T: Inhibitor Sensor ___ M/T: Neutral Sensor ** Display repeats until ignition switch is turned "OFF" or 5 min has past. Note 1: To change the display mode to "A", turn OFF ignition switch after mode "B" is displayed. When battery is insufficient, mode "B" is displayed. Note 2: If fail-safe system was operated (fail-safe valve is operating) when ignition switch was turned OFF for the last time, mode A will be displayed. If fail-safe system was not operated when the ignition switch was turned OFF for the last time, mode B will be displayed. * Canceling the self-diagnosis function Three methods. 1) By turning the ignition switch off. 2) After self-diagnosis has been operated for ~5 minutes. 3) If the vehicle speed goes over 30 km/h (19 mph).

ahh yes the ol Karate Chop method...... it's a pearler

I came to watch.... im too scared that ill destroy my turbo.... and i have no money to fix it.... That Rx7 was a beast..... a lot of those GTR's hammered..... the shock of the day was hearing the GT3 was averaging 148kph around the track.... wholly guacamoly....

For those using the Blitz BOV or any other Adjustable BOV tighten the screw on the top down to 2 or 3 turns out.... that might help with the stalling saga.... only problem is that it will also affect the sound. I bought my Blitz BOV not realising that it's ment for releasing over 1 bar of Boost... (14.7 PSI) So here am i on Stock (7 PSI) and a BOV designed for Higher Boost Applications. DOE!!!.... oh well it sounds ok ... and i have driven past many police ... the BOV doesn't get their attention.... it's the "SKYLINE" part and the similarity to the car in the "2 fast 2 Furious Movie".... cause we all are illegal street racer's... Oh well.... not too worry.../end small rant..... Look for a BOV that is better suited to lower boost applications... liek GFB or Turbosmart type 2.... etc etc..... Enjoy your car..... i waited 3 months for mine.... that was hard.... but worth it... Cheers Lawrence

Turn stereo up louder..... Works for me...... My door was bent on the wharf so it rattles a bit..... but i hardly notice it anymore.....

:bahaha:@ CS_180.....

My Factory Sony Tele got busted on the wharf...... Pm me with a price........ Lawrence

Nissan President....... VIP Style....

DOE!!!! i hate karma...... Karma sutra on the other hand......

This morning my Tacho decided it wasn't going to work...... so far today it will rise to 3,000 rpm then go back down to zero as i accelerate anyone else had this problem...... It might dissapear just as quick as it appeared..... i hope......

I wonder how much a 8 sec GTR would cost to build 300k 400k .... more?? Hmmmm id think I'd prefer to have a Nice GTR and 2 houses.... I'd say in 4 years' time (Munro) will have that 3 litre Streeter into the 6's..... welll maybe......

Just checking it could be Boost cut...as said above......