Alecci

Terry mate, Thanks for the reply. I found an e-mail address off their website that I used, I don't know whether this is Josh's personal company address or not. I sent an e-mail some time ago but I've not even received a message receipt, so I guess he's not very intent on selling. / Alex

Any more info / views on JSAI? Looking to order a few bits from there, and I'm still further away (living in Sweden) than the OP is. I noticed this thread went a fair bit off-topic, but I thought it more appropriate to revive it than start a new one.

The instruments stopped working suddenly during a run on the rolling road. Symptoms as follows: - Water Temp, Rev Meter, Speedometer, Oil Pressure Gauge and Fuel Gauge are not working, all needles stay at the bottom when ignition is turned/engine is started. - Combination Meter lighting and lights for high beam, turning indicators and fog light are working. - If I understood the manual correctly, the MFD get its information via the combination meter. On the MFD, the Water Temp gauge is flashing red and showing a constant 130° C, the Boost Gauge is constantly showing -0.760 kg/cm2 while all the others are working fine. - The alternator is not charging. - The Apexi ECU shows some of these values (visible by using the Commander), for example Water Temp and Revs. What we've checked: - All fuses have been checked over, and over, and over again. No faulty fuses. - I've replaced the Nismo combination meter with my standard one twice. No differences. - I've checked all connectors behind the combination meter, no loose ends or anything. - Water Temp Sensor is working properly. - I found a group of torn wires under the car, right next to the middle axle that runs from the transfer case to the front diff. I worked them out and reconnected them all, carefully matching all the colors, and checking and re-checking that I got it right. - No other torn wires or loose cable ends that wasn't there before the instrumentation stopped working. It seems that the professionals can get no further than I have without a proper full wiring diagram. I've got the following: R34 Service Supplement, 18.3 MB (18,775 kB) R34 Workshop Manual, 12.6 MB (12,966 kB) Apparently none of them contains that particular wiring diagram that the workshop is looking for. Many thanks for yor help!

My instrument cluster (also known as combination meter) is not working, and after trouble-shooting the issue myself for two months I've finally sent the car to a professional workshop. It seems that they need a full wiring diagram in order to get any further. I've tried searching for one on most other big Skyline boards that I know of without any luck, and of course I've also tried using Google. I've got the Workshop Manual and Service Supplement for the R34, but there's no wiring diagram that contains the info needed in there. Sources on the web recommend using these two manuals in combination with the wiring diagram, so it seems there should be one out there. Any hints to where I can get my hands on one of them?

Water Temp, Revolution Meter, Oil Pressure, Speedometer and Fuel Guage suddenly stopped working during a mapping pull. Instrumentation lighting is working fine, but the gauges show nothing at all, all the needles staying at bottom like dead. Boost and Water Temp on the MFD isn't working ether, apart from the Water Temp flashing red and showing 130° C. Oil Temp, Throttle and Injector Duty still works like normal, and the unit is lit up like normal. We've checked all fuses (fuse box in the engine bay, fuse box to the right beneath the steering wheel and fuse box in the trunk), and we've checked the water temp sensor. Nothing's wrong with any of it? Any suggestions as to what might be causing these problems? Like I mentioned we've checked all fuses we were able to find, but does anyone know if there are any additional locations where there are fuses in the R34 GTR? Perhaps someone even knows exactly where we can find the fuses for the instrumentation?

I previously had a thread here about getting the car started... Well, the car is now started. The problem was discovered to be the CAS, that probably took a bit of beating during the crash some 15 months ago. The CAS has, of course, been replaced by a brand new one. Car still don't run as it should though. Idle is very bad, ranging from about 500 to 3500 RPM, when hitting the lower revs it sometimes dies altogether. At lower revs it misfires a lot and and sends loads of flames through the exhaust. At higher revs it runs much better, almost like normal. All of this applies to idle. Fuel pressure is rather conservatively adjusted at about 2.5 bar and injector lag times are almost what should be (lag times are 1.04 ms and should be 1.1 ms). We've been able to found out the following: 1: We still get error code 21 (primary ignition signal). 2: One of the camshafts are about 1-2 mm off since the workshop replaced the oil seal down by the crankshaft. 3: Ignition angle has been set at either 16 degees before TDC or 27 degrees before TDC. We've not yet had time to properly adjust the ignition angle, which I think should be set to 20 degrees before TDC? The front end of the engine is being taken apart as we speak to fix another oil leakage, and the camshafts will be properly adjusted this time. So, could the faulty camshaft position or the faulty ignition angle, or a combination thereof, be causing the symptoms we've been experiencing? Could they even be causing the error code 21? The car is due for mapping on Tuesday 24 June, and that's the last available appointment before the middle of August. Missing this date would mean no car season for me, so time is of the essence. Any help would be very appreciated.

The car finally started this morning. It was the CAS... It probably took a good smacking in the crash (no damages were visible until we opened it up). Thanks for your assistance, guys!

Just like you said, the fact that a non-present CAS gives code 11 and a present one gives code 21 is what also made me suspect that it may be the CAS that's malfunctioning. Otherwise I think the first error code would still show up, right? The wiring could be damaged I guess, but it's nothing that meets the eye at least. I'll check access to an oscilloscope. I'm very grateful for your input!

Diagnostics tool and ECU has been reset/cleared between starts. We also removed the cable to the CAS, and then we would only get error code 11 (cam angle sensor). When CAS was reconnected, we once again only get error code 21. Fuel is going into the cylinders, the spark plugs got very wet prior to lowering the fuel pressure. The injectors still open 8.0 ms when cranking the engine, some people guess the reason for that is choke (fuel enrichment for cold starts). Fuel is still going into the cylinders after lowering the fuel pressure. If I'm not mistaken, the car would not be back-firing if there's no fuel present? Crank was at TDC and we double, triple and quadruple checked the position of the cams prior to assembing the cambelt.

Hi mate, I don't have any clue whatsoever as to how the CAS is constructed, nor in which ways it could be broken to the point where the car will not start. I've not had nor will have any chance of trying a different CAS. There's only about 12 BNR34's in Sweden altogether, and none of them are close to where I live. Being a delicate, rather expensive and crucial component of the engine there's no way I can borrow one either. The same thing, of course, goes for the coilpacks. Being a bit low on funds after spending some money on the rebuild of the car, I'd hate buying new stuff that's not really needed. Many thanks for your reply, I really appreciate it. Cheers!

I've been rebuilding my R34 GTR following a crash during a track event some two years ago. I've modified most of the engine, basically only leaving the bottom end standard. For a complete spec list, please visit this link and scroll down below the pictures. All parts used are brand new. For some time now we've been trying to start the car. We've run diagnostics on it and gotten some error codes, and we've managed to sort them all out except for code 21 (primary ignition signal). I've searched the forums for other threads describing the same problem, and while the search turned up a lot of results for error code 21, none of the threads has dealt with problems such as mine (i.e. the car will not start at all). We have spark on all cylinders, and we have fuel going into the engine. Ignition angle is 16 degrees. The starter turns over quickly and the car sounds like it wants to start, but the closest thing to a running engine we've achieved is a lot of back-firing in the exhaust. I'm a real newbie when it comes to troubleshooting cars and fixing problems, but my guess is that one of the following are broken or not functioning properly: - cam-angle sensor - coilpacks - AFM's Any thoughts? I've posted this question on a number of other forums, but I don't seem to get any help. Having spent the last 2 years rebuilding the car, whereof the last 2 months just trying to get it started, I'm close to losing heart and taking a sledgehammer to the car in order to smash it just for the sheer satisfaction of the act. Help is desperatly needed!

Right then... Sorry if I'm messing this excellent thread up. First of all, I'm Swedish, so I'd appreciate it if you would all be somewhat indulgent towards my poor English. On to the business then. About one year and a half ago, I managed to crash my R34 GTR during a track racing event, front first into a wall at about 75 km/h. Most of the front end was busted in one way or another, but the engine seemed to come out on top. The only thing I could see on it was that the steering pump pulley was slightly damaged. Seeing as I would have to replace a lot of parts and take the engine out of the car, I figured I'd spend some hard earned money on improving the performance, not that my insufficient driving skills was really in need of it. Prior to the crash the car was completely stock apart from downpipe, catback exhaust and higher boost. The specification now looks like this: Stock Bottom End Race Ported Head Tomei Intake Camshaft 260° Lift 10.25mm Tomei Exhaust Camshaft 252° Lift 9.15mm Tomei Adjustable Intake Cam Pulley Tomei Adjustable Exhaust Cam Pulley Tomei Valve Lifters Tomei Valve Springs 10.85mm Tomei Valve Guides Tomei Gasket Combination 1.2mm 87.0mm GReddy Timing Belt GReddy Engine Pulley Kit GReddy Racing Intercooler R-SPL HG Type 23 302.0mm x 600.0mm x 115.0mm GReddy Intercooler Piping Kit GReddy Racing Radiator 435.0mm x 670.0mm x 48.0mm GReddy Radiator Piping Kit GReddy Intake Plenum GReddy Plenum Piping Kit GReddy Oil Cooler Kit NS1010G 299.0mm x 142.0mm x 50.0mm GReddy Blow-Off Valve Type-RS x 2 GReddy e-Manage Ultimate ECU GReddy e-Manage Ultimate N4 Harness Kit GReddy Profec B-Spec II Boost Controller GReddy Turbo Timer Sard 800cc Injector x 6 Sard 280L Fuel Pump Sard Fuel Delivery Pipe Sard Adjustable Fuel Regulator Type-R Nissan N1 Oil Pump Nissan N1 Water Pump Nismo Air Flow Meter x 2 Nismo Low Temperature Thermostat GT-Tune Stainless Steel Low Mount Manifold x 2 Garrett GT2560R-JP x 2 Since the rebuild was completed the car has failed to start. To be honest, I've no experience in tuning cars or even working on them. I've taken advice from others among my acquaintances that have suggested solutions to the problem. I have spark. I have fuel. But the car will not start. I’ve checked all earth wires. I’ve replaced the battery. I’ve used start assistance from another car. But the car still will not start. I first tried to start it using only the standard ECU, needless to say without any success. I suspected it would not start under those conditions, since the injectors are now twice the size and the AFM’s are also upgraded. Today I plugged in the GReddy e-Manage Ultimate. I managed to get it working, communicating with my laptop and updated it to the latest version (2.13 if I’m not mistaken). I brought up the parameter setting and selected the RB26DETT. I thought I’d be able to set the “Airflow change to” to Nismo AFM’s, but it seems all the options listed are standard engine components. On the “I/J” tab I put in data for the new injectors at the bottom, 800cc injectors and 1.1 milliseconds latency. I made no other changes whatsoever. Thereafter I saved and exported the data to the main unit. In spite of all this, however, it made no difference to how it was earlier. The engine turns over, it even “coughs” a few times, but it will not start. I’m just about one step short of losing heart. I’ve been trying for two months by now to get it fired up. The whole restoration project has already cost me my marriage. If the problem isn’t solved soon, I’d gladly take a sledgehammer to the car and smash it. Before anyone suggests it, taking the car to a professional mechanic or a tuner shop is not an option, neither for practical nor economical purposes. Please also take due notice, my mission is not to map the car, just getting it started so that I can drive it to the tuner shop that will map it. Basically, what I want to know, is if there’s any more changes I need or should do in the EMU setup programme that would get it to start or at least improve the chances?