SKiT_R31

Nice build Scotty. Is that still the standard throttlebody? If you do go with a Greddy make sure it's genuine, those copy's are terrible quality and cause all sorts of issues, inside they're rough and for atmo I feel like the cylinders aren't going to scavenge equally. Personally I like the idea of a Plazmaman top with a larger throttle body, they look nice, it will shorten the runners a bit, adds some internal trumpets which will keep the length even and airflow distributed, will hopefully boost the mid-range a bit. You could also smooth and polish up the inside of the stock runners. With that increase in airflow from capacity, compression and cam overlap I reckon the best thing you can do is chuck on a bigger throttle.

It's all sold sorry mate, thread was just bumped from the dark ages.

I've got an old RB25DE bottom end, PM sent.

Torque is great, especially with 4.36:1 N/A diff gearing

This is my graph on stock management, it has a dip down low and up top, my first thought was that it was R&R but it wasnt. I later found out that the N/A and Turbo models also have different VCT points, it is my theory that the these holes are due to a mismatch in the turbo vct switch and the intake cam gear timing. If you look in the NA+T thread you can find similar graphs on NA's using the stock turbo ECU, but it can be tuned out for those on aftermarket management. This dip wasnt really noticible as far as power delivery was concerned, if anything it just felt a quick second surge of power right up top just before limiter. I later fitted an SAFC which gained about 10kW once tuned but the graph shape remained pretty similar.

The exhaust cam doesnt have VCT, it it a blank cam gear which mates with the crank angle sensor.

The Cams are identical, but from comparison it looks like the cam timing is slightly different. Inside the VCT/Intake camgear it actually has bolts to adjust it, my turbo cam gears have a different setting to that of the N/A. Once turbo'd, the dyno shows a bit of a hole on most N/A+T's just above 5000rpm, it is my opinion that it is due to that.

Thats an awesome power graph, should be really good to drive. That torque figure is at the wheels after gearing (altered by gearbox and final drive), it is rarely accurate (ratios have to be properly dialled in to the dyno) if it was in first for example you'd have the same power but like 5000nm torque. Your real torque figure looks to be about 430nm at the wheels @ ~6100rpm This is based off reading your graph and the formula: It's a bit 'low' because the rpm is so high, but from how linear your delivery is, it would be safe to say your torque curve would be quite flat, it would have similar torque to its peak at just off spooling at ~ 3500rpm. Anyway, looks awesome - cant wait to see it going around baskerville.

PM'd

Sorry, Its all sold except for the PowerFC.

They are pretty much the same box as the RB20DET, and will handle stock power happily and anything upwards of around 200rwkW safely if not abused; If you want to clutch drop/clutch kick/flat shift it will not last long at all at that power level.

Hey, I will separate but the fewer packages/trips to the post office the better. Chillzi, I would be after $1200 posted for those parts combined.

I also have a Profec B Spec II boost controller, matched to the setup which i wanted to sell separately, after $250 posted. http://img547.imageshack.us/img547/4977/image009j.png

Hey All, I have everything you need to give your standard RB25 / R33 at least 220RWKW, people have been known to get upwards of 240kW out of this particular turbo. The PowerFC has been tuned for this setup, it was originally tuned for an R34 (OP6) Highflow making 250kW at the treads, but that setup proved too laggy and the power sacrifice is probably worth it for the 1000rpm quicker spool time, the tune has only been adjusted in the lower rpm with ignition timing removed due to the quicker spool time. The PFC was tuned with the Z32 AFM and the JECS 550cc injectors, both which were new at the time of installation and have done maybe 10,000kms. The turbo is a GCG R33 highflow (not OP6) with zero shaft play and is a direct bolt on replacement. I have only ever run this turbo on 12psi due to only having the factory dump pipe installed at the time of dyno (and as you can see, holds strong), the turbo is good for 14psi but I never had the chance to run that before the car was written off. I would recommend the ignition timing be set to 15BTDC, an upgraded fuel pump (040, Walbro 255, GTR, etc), boost controller and FMIC be installed with these components, then this should go straight on the car without issues, tune adjustment on the dyno might yield slightly more power for the less aggressive turbo but as is the tune is safe and reliable. Pictures are attached, the injectors are still in the engine to keep then clean, i will individually snap lock bag them for postage. Note, the second graph is of the original tune for the OP6 highflow, first is with all the gear listed as dyno'd with a greddy profec b, Bosch 040, generic pod filter, standard coilpacks, ebay FMIC kit and 3" exhaust with stock dump. I'm after $2000 posted (registered/insured) for the Highflow turbo, Tuned PFC, 550cc Injectors and Z32 AFM with plug http://imageshack.us/a/img254/269/image001hc.png http://imageshack.us/a/img109/1067/image002gh.png http://imageshack.us/a/img35/843/image003g.png http://imageshack.us/a/img507/9641/image004s.png http://imageshack.us/a/img837/5603/image005q.png http://imageshack.us/a/img690/9194/image006s.png http://imageshack.us/a/img577/1410/image007m.png http://imageshack.us/a/img811/3880/image008f.png

RB26 doesn't have vct, it also means he'd have to bin the exhaust manifold as well as the intake, neo and 26 have solids but the neo has larger ports standard, neo head studs are the same size as a 30 bottom (RB26 are larger), you can get neo heads cheaper, easier and usually in better condition. Its a pretty obvious choice, the only thing it doesn't get you is "RB26/30" as its name, which loses value regardless of performance .

Use the RB20 ecu and fit a nistune board?

My bad, for some reason I just thought they had less comp, my R33 RB25's have always registered ~ 160psi accoss the board with my forged 8.5:1 being flat 150, then my R34 neo wavered at ~ 145-150 so it must have just been quite tired . http://www.importworkshop.com/files/manuals/nissan/R33_engine_man.pdf http://www.importworkshop.com/files/manuals/nissan/R34_service_man.pdf Google does say 9.5, the manuals don't state the comp though, and interesting (or lazy of them) their compression test, limit and variation are the same on the neo and normal rb25 .

Neo's are decent, but it would be an added pain in the ass, Your plazmaman wont bolt up nor will your injectors, they run less duration and more lift plus dual stage vct, so it will most likely cock up your tune. That said better piston/ring land and combustion chamber design with lower comp and of course solid lifters makes them pretty reliable especially if you ran it on R33 electrics and on an R33 76deg thermostat but still you're paying a fair amount for an unopened second hand motor generally with unknown history. I'd go a stocker cheapo 33 or a basic built motor (hint, hint) for sure.

I've got everything you need, shoot me a pm with what you think its worth. Cheers

Tas police are no where near that level, even if they could even think to look, it most definitily wouldnt be a priority since the most cars on the road are clearly and visible (or audibly) unroadworthy - if your car is tidy, you wont have a problem, and if its not, they'll pin you for something else. I havn't had a cat in any of my skylines over the past 7 years, (until my current completely standard one, but only because it has a stock exhaust) and i think you'll find >50% of skylines on the road either do not have a cat, or have a gutted cat. For me its either standard/3" cat, or no cat at all (decat pipe is $50), dont waste your money on anything else as it doesnt really make sfa difference anyway (mainly noise and fire).

I've got a set of S14/R33 rims in good condition, no tyres, happy with $100

I've got some

YES THAT!!, thanks, FFF I missed that auction

Can anyone recommend a good place to get side skirts fitted and painted and front bumper resprayed? Obviously no one wants to pay more than they have to but i'd rather pay more for something perfect as the product remains after the money is forgotten. After a perfect paint match and don’t want any orange peel, prefer both items painted off the car as it is currently a perfect respray and don’t want it ruined with overspray . Cheeeeeeeeeeers in advance

I can only find ones for R32's, cheers though